My K1500 DD Tow Pig

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Supercharged111

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Roughed in the MAF today and the truck will make a full WOT rip safely. I want to start calling out mfers down here, this thing rips pretty damned good down here. Screwed up the VE log so will re-engage both and see where I get there.
 

Supercharged111

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Wow, been awhile since I touched this thread. I snagged a 1 piece airdam to replace my frankensteined 3 piece unit.

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Truck looks weird without one

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Never took an after pic, but it looks how it should now.
 

Supercharged111

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I took the truck to get aligned and the tech said I had an upper ball joint hammered. I couldn't see the movement, but decided to change both over to the Mevotech TTX as they're supposed to be it. After unboxing, they do appear to be a cut above the typical Moog. Only time will tell.

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The grease fitting doesn't thread into tin, that upper cover is pretty beefy. I like the plates with the bolts in them too and the clip is a very nice touch. Did the passenger side first, unbolted whatever was there, cleaned it up, and bolted the new one down.

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They even include a cap for the fitting. Onto the driver's side.

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Well ****, this side's original and supposedly not even bad. Do I bother grinding or send it as is? Will the replacement even outlast this joint? I'm torn because the Mevotech was made in Communist China and I know damn well this one here was made in 'Murica.
 

454cid

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After unboxing, they do appear to be a cut above the typical Moog. Only time will tell.

I belive that's supposed to be the point.... the TTX are supposed to be a true upgrade, not just an OEM type replacement.

Well ****, this side's original and supposedly not even bad. Do I bother grinding or send it as is? Will the replacement even outlast this joint? I'm torn because the Mevotech was made in Communist China and I know damn well this one here was made in 'Murica.

I'd leave it because I've never had great luck drilling stuff out. When I had mine done, I took the arms to a heavy truck shop to get them drilled out. Even that guy let the bit wander on one hole.

Did the boxes say China? I thought they were suppose to be from Taiwan.
 

Supercharged111

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I originally thought both were replacements, the one nut on the driver's side fooled me.
 

Supercharged111

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Box says made in China.

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Bottom sticker. Forgot to mention that the hardware is 12.9 too.

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454cid

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Box says made in China.

Well that's too bad :-(

Bottom sticker. Forgot to mention that the hardware is 12.9 too.

I bet those will take the factory torque spec..... I don't recall the number, but my GM manual specs a torque value higher than what a Grade 8 bolt will handle, and Grade 5 are what is typically supplied with new ball joints. I'm preyy sure the torque was higher than what the typical metric bolt would handle too. I've always figured it must be a mis-print. The first time I went to torque one down I set the wrench and the bolt twisted in half before it even remotely felt tight. Now I just look up the specs for the bolt size and use that.
 

Supercharged111

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Well that's too bad :-(



I bet those will take the factory torque spec..... I don't recall the number, but my GM manual specs a torque value higher than what a Grade 8 bolt will handle, and Grade 5 are what is typically supplied with new ball joints. I'm preyy sure the torque was higher than what the typical metric bolt would handle too. I've always figured it must be a mis-print. The first time I went to torque one down I set the wrench and the bolt twisted in half before it even remotely felt tight. Now I just look up the specs for the bolt size and use that.

I'm guessing that torque spec is only for the single bolt?
 

454cid

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I'm guessing that torque spec is only for the single bolt?

I guess if you're working with original ball joints, but any replacement ball joint from GM would have four bolts. Dealerships wouldn't have been expected to use big rivets anymore than they would be expected to have the means to inject plastic to hold in the 1344 3R u-joints bearings.
 
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