My first suspension rebuild, have questions

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Erik the Awful

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It makes me crazy. Smacking steel parts (typically forged) are bad enough. Smacking iron castings (GMT400 and GMT360/370 steering knuckles, for instance) seems to me to be a really bad idea.
Then you're looking for something to be upset about. This is SOP everywhere. Worry about what matters. As much as I kidded about the grease, that's actually a legitimate problem.
 

Kens1990K2500

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To update you all, I put in several hours working on the truck this past weekend, and it's finally drivable again, after sitting on jack stands the past few months. Work this weekend consisted of (properly) installing the sway bar end links, as well as new sway bar bushings. (NOTE: THE SWAY BAR BRACKETS HAVE BEEN FULLY TIGHTENED - THESE PHOTOS WERE JUST TAKEN BEFORE THAT POINT.) I also decided to replace calipers and front brake hoses while I had everything apart, since they'd seen better days. Also greased all the chassis parts, new and old.

Took it for a short test drive and was pleased with the results. No more clunks/rattles from the front end! Of course, it will need an alignment. I also will separate and re-torque the inner tie rod castle nuts, the ones where the groove in the nut does not line up with the cotter pin hole. I have washers to put under the nuts, but am just waiting for the front end tool kit Schurkey recommended, to arrive from Amazon.

I do have another question, however. So I replaced the upper control arm bolts with the eccentric camber bolts. I installed mine with the arrow and the wide part of the washer facing up, but I saw a truck at the junkyard that the wide part of the washer is facing down (see attached photos). Which way is correct?
 

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SNCTMPL

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When you get it aligned they will set it for you.
 

Kens1990K2500

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Yes. ANY time you loosen/remove the nut holding a tapered stud, the stud has to be broken-free and re-torqued.


See below.




Flushing the original grease and using whatever grease you can source reliably is a fine idea. Saves 'phone calls, too.


I know that this is common. It's almost universal.

It makes me crazy. Smacking steel parts (typically forged) are bad enough. Smacking iron castings (GMT400 and GMT360/370 steering knuckles, for instance) seems to me to be a really bad idea.

Back in 2011, I got a "Front End Service Set" from the loaner-tool program at the local NAPA. I liked it so much that I just bought it from them. That set was made for KD (renamed Gearwrench) in Taiwan. That same set was sold by OTC and others; and has since been knocked-off in Communist China and is sold under about two dozen brand names. The two pieces I used the most finally wore-out; NAPA warrantied the entire set rather than replace the two pieces I needed. These or similar tools may be on other parts-stores "Loaner-Tool" program.

KD--Gearwrench tool set p/n 41690
www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-41690-Front-End-Service/dp/B000TDCCHW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=DRWYKLTM5YQE

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Ball joints on '66--'78 Toronado are not much different from GMT400. This tool on a GMT400 is about at the limit of it's size range. Could be larger, but isn't.
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Tie rod ends, or joints on the center link handled with this guy.
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These tools push directly on the threaded, tapered stud. ZERO damage to all parts involved.

Compare to my Trailblazer when the lower ball joint was separated in order to install a CV axle by a repair shop that shall remain nameless. They hit the cast iron steering knuckle, off-center, and hard enough to raise a big burr. I had a heck of a time getting my tool in place with that burr on the steering knuckle.

[Sorry--Photo of Trailblazer ball joint replacement on another computer IF I can get that computer fired-up again, I'll edit this post or start another.]
One other question: I installed the upper control arm alignment camber bolts with the arrow and wide part of the washer facing up.

But afterward, I went to the treasure yard to get an unrelated part, and happened to notice another GMT400 had the camber washers in the opposite direction (see attachment).

Which is correct?
 

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Caman96

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One other question: I installed the upper control arm alignment camber bolts with the arrow and wide part of the washer facing up.

But afterward, I went to the treasure yard to get an unrelated part, and happened to notice another GMT400 had the camber washers in the opposite direction (see attachment).

Which is correct?
As @SNCTMPL has pointed out, will be set when it’s aligned. Mine are all different, but front end is aligned.
 

Kens1990K2500

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I don't think it matters provided the camber/caster is acceptable.
Thanks again for the recommendations on the grease gun attachment (works great, although I had to use the standard attachment on the lower ball joints, because those zerks are slightly recessed, and the clamping attachment is too large diameter to fit in the recess), and the front end service tool kit (it just arrived yesterday, tools look like decent quality, and I like the carrying case to keep them organized).

I also now have a torsion bar unloading tool (made by OEM tools) and will be replacing the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts (those were kinda pricy). Once those nuts and bolts are replaced, then I can adjust the Z height, and after that is done, it's ready for an alignment, and then the whole big project is done.

As promised earlier, I will be posting a detailed write up very soon on fabricating brackets for rotted front bump stops.
 

Kens1990K2500

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In case anyone is wondering what product I used to paint the frame, it is KBR Rust Seal in satin black. It is similar to POR15. I used a cheap brush to apply it.
 

Kens1990K2500

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I don't think it matters provided the camber/caster is acceptable.
So, my front end rebuild is officially complete. Earlier this week, I took the truck for an alignment. Prior to the alignment, the truck was drivable, but it wandered a lot and the steering wheel didn't want to return on its own after a turn (in other words, I had to steer it back straight). The steering wheel was also off-center.

The one-man shop, which specializes in brakes and alignments, also adjusted the Z height via the torsion bar bolts (I had replaced the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts the night before I took it in for an alignment, as I had the torsion bar unloading tool). The eccentric washers on the camber bolt changed a little bit from the orientation I had them in, but not by much, so I was pretty close. The caster and toe-in/toe-out was off quite a bit. Anyhow, the truck drives and steers much better, and the steering wheel is straight. The truck feels much better going over bumps, and no more squeaks or rattles. Total investment was about $1,500 in parts, plus my (free) labor, plus $140 for alignment. A lot of money, but money well spent, I feel.

Thanks again for your and others' advice and help.
 
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