Yes. ANY time you loosen/remove the nut holding a tapered stud, the stud has to be broken-free and re-torqued.
See below.
Flushing the original grease and using whatever grease you can source reliably is a fine idea. Saves 'phone calls, too.
I know that this is common. It's almost universal.
It makes me crazy. Smacking steel parts (typically forged) are bad enough. Smacking iron castings (GMT400 and GMT360/370 steering knuckles, for instance) seems to me to be a
really bad idea.
Back in 2011, I got a "Front End Service Set" from the loaner-tool program at the local NAPA. I liked it so much that I just bought it from them. That set was made for KD (renamed Gearwrench) in Taiwan. That same set was sold by OTC and others; and has since been knocked-off in Communist China and is sold under about two dozen brand names. The two pieces I used the most finally wore-out; NAPA warrantied the entire set rather than replace the two pieces I needed. These or similar tools may be on other parts-stores "Loaner-Tool" program.
KD--Gearwrench tool set p/n 41690
www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-41690-Front-End-Service/dp/B000TDCCHW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=DRWYKLTM5YQE
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Ball joints on '66--'78 Toronado are not much different from GMT400. This tool on a GMT400 is about at the limit of it's size range. Could be larger, but isn't.
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Tie rod ends, or joints on the center link handled with this guy.
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These tools push directly on the threaded, tapered stud. ZERO damage to all parts involved.
Compare to my Trailblazer when the lower ball joint was separated in order to install a CV axle by a repair shop that shall remain nameless. They hit the cast iron steering knuckle, off-center, and hard enough to raise a big burr. I had a heck of a time getting my tool in place with that burr on the steering knuckle.
[Sorry--Photo of Trailblazer ball joint replacement on another computer
IF I can get that computer fired-up again, I'll edit this post or start another.]