My 97 3/4 ton 454... anything else i need or should do ?

[1998crewcab]

New Brake lines
Stainless

 

[Schurkey]

SAFETY FIRST. Do this BEFORE you tart up the truck with a bunch of unneeded crap.

Inspect, replace as needed

upper ball joints
lower ball joints
upper control arm bushings
lower control arm bushings
inner tie rod ends
outer tie rod ends
Idler arm
pitman arm
center link/drag link
steering rag joint
steering damper
front brake pads
front rotor condition
Caliper condition (Might as well disassemble, clean, inspect, lube, and re-assemble.)
front wheel bearings (check for play or noise)
CV shaft + boots
Verify receiver hitch is solidly mounted--no loose or broken bolts, frame not cracked
Verify trailer electrical connector is properly wired, and trailer brakes work as intended.
Leaf spring condition including U-bolts and spring bushings
park brake operation including park brake release and park brake pedal return
rear service brake shoes, wheel cylinders, drums, springs. Yes, this is NO FUN with a full-float axle.
rear wheel bearings
Front driveshaft including splines and U-joints
Rear driveshaft including splines (if used) and U-joints
Rubber body mounts and hardware
Tire and wheel condition, lug studs and lug nuts including spare tire and tire hanger.
Sway bar mounts and end-links
Four shock absorbers
HVAC system can blow hot air onto windshield (defroster works) Ideally, you'd have full control of blower speeds, air direction and temperature.
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AFTER you have the above handled, inspect or replace

ALL filters: oil, air, PCV, transmission, charcoal canister (if serviceable). If the Air Conditioning system is to be opened-up for service, replace the desiccant pouch--which may mean replacing the accumulator.
Engine leaks--oil or coolant. Change oil and filter, flush coolant including removing and reinstalling both knock sensors to drain the block
Verify radiator pressure cap
PS hose condition--flush PS fluid PERHAPS add PS filter to return hose
Leaks at front differential (and change gear grease--about 2 1/2 qts 75-90 synthetic)
Verify 4WD axle disconnect works
Leaks at rear differential including axle seals (and change gear grease--about 2 1/2 qts 75--90 Use synthetic ONLY if you have retrofitted gaskets in place of RTV silicone at rear cover and axle flanges)
Leaks at transmission (change fluid including flush torque converter and trans cooler(s)--about 12+ qts Dex-Merc or Dexron VI)
Leaks at transfer case (change fluid--about 2 1/2 qts Dex-Merc or Dexron VI)
Charging system voltage and amperage output
Starter motor voltage and amperage input
Battery state-of-charge and load-test
Condition of all alternator/battery/starter cables/wiring harness
Condition of serpentine belt and tensioner, and each pulley on the system.
Connect scan tool, verify no codes stored, verify sensors and actuators are functioning within normal limits. If the O2 sensors have more than ~80K on them, you might as well replace all four, and certainly the front two.


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You need to inspect or replace the above about ten times more than you need a trans temp gauge, and about a hundred times more than you need window tint and grille trim.

For the record, my '97 K2500 7.4L is currently out-of-service waiting on four ball joints, one tie rod end, and rear-axle/rear brake inspection. I even bought the 'special tool" J-2222-C to dick with the rear bearing adjuster.

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[Aparke4]

Yes to all the above^!!

I have a 96 k2500 and I am still going through that list even after 3 years of ownership. I went mods first and am semi-regretting it as I am uncovering a lot of work out steering and suspension parts.

I am quite pleased for what its worth with the Powerstop front brake kit. Stops 35's much better than stock. Upgraded to stainless break lines at same time.

I am also hunting down leaks... run a little UV dye in oil and start that process in addition to the list. Valve cover gaskets are a prime suspect followed by hdroboost and power steering.

Blackbear tune really tied together volant intake, JBA headers, accel wires/ distro and NGK Iridium plugs. Getting to the distributor though is a pain on these motors especially with 4 inch lift and 35's...

 

[stutaeng]

I guess add hydroboost if it has not been replaced already. Mine was leaking so I replaced it along with the high pressure hose from the hydrobost to gearbox AND P.S. pump. They each had a massive leak. It was not visible to the eye, but turning the steering wheel and pressure caused a leak that shot at least 3 feet out into the wheel well.

A few months ago I had replaced the P.S. pump because the shaft broke, leaving me with no steering assist and brakes. I was hauling about 2,500 lbs of broken concrete to the landfill too! Luckily I had just left home was able to limp back, but that was scary!

 

[Pjstucn]

Is the truck a dually?

 

[stutaeng]

Is the truck a dually?

3/4 ton/2500, per original post.

 

[Jermaine Smith]

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[rpoL98]

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nice truck. subtle.

 

[Jermaine Smith]

nice truck. subtle.

Thanks. Im listening closely. Learning....

 

[Jermaine Smith]

So yesterday at the parts store i picked the following....
Spark plugs
Ignition wires
Oil filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Radiator hoses
Thermostat
New serpentine belt
Guess thats a start...