My 88 C1500 "The Go-Get-Mobile"

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PlayingWithTBI

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With nuts though - might the stud just walk through the trapped nut?
We plan on bottoming out the studs (if possible) and using Locktite. Hopefully they won't EVER back out, LOL.

Stage 8 locking header bolts are expensive and can be a pain to install, but they work.
I looked at those too but, as I said, I saw reviews where they didn't fit in certain positions - as in every style I checked.

Thanks for the input guys, we'll see...
 

PlayingWithTBI

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We plan on bottoming out the studs (if possible) and using Locktite. Hopefully they won't EVER back out, LOL.
So, we loosened the Y pipes, unbolted the headers, and screwed in the front and rear studs. Got them bottomed out in the heads with red thread locker. Dropped the copper gaskets in place, then screwed in the rest of the studs. After that we installed the nuts, they all fit OK YAY! After that we tightened them all down a little at a time. The copper gaskets didn't look like they've crushed much so we will run it for a while to soften them up and re-torque the nuts.

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On the driver's side, even with the DEI high temp boots my #5 wire got so hot the white core got so brittle, it broke when pulling the wires. That's what you get for having slant plugs I guess.:Stupid Me:
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Since we were this far we just pulled the header and wrapped it where #s 5 & 7 are and put the boots back on. All the other wires are still good.
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After that we started it back up to heat up the gaskets but, now that I got rid of all the exhaust leaks we can hear what sounds like a loose rocker arm or collapsed lifter. And, of course, it's on the passenger side in the back where it's twice as hard getting the valve cover off, :banghead:

I may tackle it some time this week or wait for my son to come back over and help next weekend. He's taller and can reach the back of the engine compartment easier than I, :Big Laugh:
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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UPDATE:
While waiting for my son to show up, I pulled the valve cover and easily found a loose rocker arm on #6 exhaust. The poly-lock didn't come loose and the rocker arm bearings are good, the push rod looks fine, nice even wear on it and the valve stem, sh*t! I think I know whats wrong.

Everything looks good except the loose rocker.
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So, we set up my dial indicator on #6 exhaust and then #4, rotated the engine with the nut on the alternator and a socket on the tensioner pulley to stop slippage. Both valves moved the same (within a couple thousandths) so, we eliminated a worn down cam lobe, yay!
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So we set the cold valve lash @0.012" on #6 and checked the rest - all good. Buttoned it all up and started it. Yes I have tappet noise for now but, we ran it for a while to get up to operating temp, the noise stayed about the same. We shut it down and my son hot torqued all the header nuts - got less than 1/2 turn on most of them. The gasket is squashed (technical term) now. I went inside and ordered 2 new Lunati lifters and FelPro intake manifold gaskets - should arrive Friday, just in time for the weekend where we can perform an intake-ectomy.
Can't wait :help:
 

PlayingWithTBI

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PlayingWithTBI

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Replacing my 4/1 springs with new 3/1s and leveling out the truck.

I bought my 3/1 springs from SDTruckSprings.com. I also got new U-Bolts (with washers and nuts), 4 - 9/16" X 4-1/2" grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts from them too. I was totally disappointed with their service but, that's another story :mad:. My son came over yesterday around 10:30 AM. He brought some of his favorite persuaders.
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I had the truck jacked up and removed the wheels. After that, I pretty much just watched him work:anitoof:. We did 1 side at a time. I used my floor jack to raise and lower the differential, and he did the rest. 1st he unbolted the U-Bolts and removed them as well as the top plate. Then he removed the nuts from the front hanger and the top of the shackle. The shackles look like they're home made. They're 7" instead of 4-3/8" as shown on the website. I adjusted the height of the pumpkin while he worked on getting the bolts out. He did the front hanger bolt 1st. We didn't even have to cut the one next to the fuel tank! It slid right out. Then, he pulled the spring as far forward as he could so, the bolt will come out of the shackle without having to drop the trailer hitch frame. Then we just reversed the process. The old springs had over 1-1/2" more arc in them.
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Here's the new spring and U-Bolts installed.
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Here's the truck "before"
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And "after". Front and rear wheel wells are within 1/16" of each other off the ground. By 12:25 we were cleaning up and cracked open a couple beers, it went a lot easier than we had thought! It took less than 2 hours to do it :waytogo:
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PlayingWithTBI

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what happened with SDtrucksprings.com that made you unhappy?
I posted about it in the "what did you do to your GMT400 today" but, I ordered the springs and hardware on 3/17, they shipped them from Las Vegas, and some ****** sent them to their warehouse in New York instead of my house here in AZ. That took a week. After numerous emails, waiting on hold for 15 minutes, and more online chats, they found the springs. That took another week. Then they shipped them to me the following Tuesday. On Friday UPS delivered 1 of the springs while the other was held up in Good Year because of them verifying the address. I lost another weekend since I didn't get the other spring until Monday, 4/12. So, it took 4 weeks to get all of my parts and, a month later I got them installed.
 

MrPink

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That sucks, I have had that happen recently too. I am waiting on my authentic license plate registration and that has been 6 weeks now.
 

arrg

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