My 454 Rebuild

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Mangonesailor

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My sensor measures .725 from the base to the top.
Hole measures .755 from bottom of hole to top of reluctor wheel. So .030 on the money.
Wired properly but dang was i hoping that was it!
When i change the distributor this weekend instead of using my used spare im seriously thinking of a new one.
I will ohm the wires this weekend when i test the injectors but i can be fairly sure they are good as nothing changed after installing them.
What are the chances of having 2 sets of wires with the same amount of bad ones installed exactly the same way so nothing changes?

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Was the wiring harness messed with much under the intake? Pinched wires somewhere?
 

Spareparts

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When i had the intake off a few weeks ago i checked that over pretty good and both sides of the plug. I did not see anything wrong. The wires are old and hard but no broken insulation or any signs of rubbing.
I do kinda wonder if the plugs are making a good contact. They are plugged in lock and feel tight.
 

BNielsen

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If you've already gapped it that's good, but I'm suggesting it just so tabs (figuratively) are kept on it.

HOWEVER, I have a very good suggestion I hope: Injector #4 and #7 signal wires are C1 (blue) pins 43/44 (respectively).... do you think you by chance have those backwards?

Injector 4 is Lt. Blue/Blk to terminal 43 on C1
Injector 7 is Red/Blk to terminal 44 on C1

At least on my 97 that's what they are.

@BNielsen , Check your 0411 file. I think your trucks are both 98's aren't they?
My truck is a 96; but #4 and #7 on my pinout matches up the same as yours
 

Supercharged111

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If you've already gapped it that's good, but I'm suggesting it just so tabs (figuratively) are kept on it.

HOWEVER, I have a very good suggestion I hope: Injector #4 and #7 signal wires are C1 (blue) pins 43/44 (respectively).... do you think you by chance have those backwards?

Injector 4 is Lt. Blue/Blk to terminal 43 on C1
Injector 7 is Red/Blk to terminal 44 on C1

At least on my 97 that's what they are.

@BNielsen , Check your 0411 file. I think your trucks are both 98's aren't they?

What brought you there? Did I miss something? Or is there a special consideration to be made with those on the 411 swap?
 

Spareparts

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My truck is missing on #4 and #7 more so than the other cylinders.
Here is a question.
Is there any possible way to have the distributor off a tooth or more and still have the CMP still reading ±0.3 ?
 

Spareparts

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Another thing i notice. The misfires feel worse cold than when it is hot.
 

Supercharged111

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My truck is missing on #4 and #7 more so than the other cylinders.
Here is a question.
Is there any possible way to have the distributor off a tooth or more and still have the CMP still reading ±0.3 ?

No, that'll knock you out of range by a huge margin. Well north of 30 degrees.
 

ralmo94

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Leak down test on offending cylinders maybe? Scratching at the wind here.
 

Piratehunter

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Here is a question.
Is there any possible way to have the distributor off a tooth or more and still have the CMP still reading ±0.3 ?
For the dizzy can be off a tooth or more there is not enough room to correct the CMP with the limited dizzy rotation behind the intake. I had a new dizzy gear off 180 from where it should have been pinned, which is about 1/2 tooth off. It started and ran, not so well, to the shop that had a scan tool, the CMP was off 30 some degrees. Got it set to 0 at 1100 rpm’s, ran great then. I was only able to correct for that because I had cleaned up some of the casting flashing on the back of the upper plenum where the cap/plug terminals limited dizzy rotation.
Just to tell myself it was a good thing, I had also changed my 120k mile crank sensor, just to have a new one. 2, two brand new ones, I tried caused miss fires. Put the old one in, all good again. Reminded myself, if it ain’t broke, don’t fwithit.
 
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