BNielsen
I'm Awesome
Seems fair, that's my usual go-to number for my red truck.
I'm still relying on your build thread to keep my motivation going for my motor build.
My 2001 Suburban
- Thread starter Spareparts
- Start date
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I'm still relying on your build thread to keep my motivation going for my motor build.
Got the oil cooler line gasket changed again today and the damn thing still was leaking!
Took it back off and cleaned everything super good in that area and stuck it back together and started it up. I found the leak was coming from the oil cooler temp valve. Of course the only way to get to the dang thing is take it back off.
Found the valve was about a full turn loose. Tightened it up and no more leak!
Now i can take it down to get licensed and start driving it.
Next on the list will be the ABS brake. From what i can find out reading the fix is easy. Getting it off is the hard part.
Took it back off and cleaned everything super good in that area and stuck it back together and started it up. I found the leak was coming from the oil cooler temp valve. Of course the only way to get to the dang thing is take it back off.
Found the valve was about a full turn loose. Tightened it up and no more leak!
Now i can take it down to get licensed and start driving it.
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Next on the list will be the ABS brake. From what i can find out reading the fix is easy. Getting it off is the hard part.
Hard to believe but the YouTube fix worked for the ABS module.
Kind of a pain to get the ABS pump/module out but not horrible. I found it easiest to unbolt it then you can get to the 5 brake lines with just enough wiggle room to loosen them and get em off.
Once on the bench take the 4 screws holding the module on off and remove the module. On the bottom side there are 6 little torque style screws holding the lid on.
After removing them to get the lid off you will need to use a Xacto knife and cut the glue joint as you are prying it off gently.
Search YouTube and you will find several videos showing what to re solder.
I hooked it back up to the truck and tested it. Sure enough and to my surprise when i turned the key on the ABS and Brake light went out
Brought it back inside and took the module back off so i could seal it. I used "the right stuff" Just a thin film so it would not all slop over on the inside The reinstalled it.
Had the wife help me with bleeding the brakes. Used my Solus Pro to cycle the ABS pump and re bleed the brakes twice.
ABS seems to work fine now stomping the brake on a dirt road.
If it continues to work that saved me about $350 bucks.
Next up will be the dreaded Exhaust manifold broken bolt fix but thats gonna be a week or two. Passenger side are all there, Drivers side has 2 broken bolts.
Kind of a pain to get the ABS pump/module out but not horrible. I found it easiest to unbolt it then you can get to the 5 brake lines with just enough wiggle room to loosen them and get em off.
Once on the bench take the 4 screws holding the module on off and remove the module. On the bottom side there are 6 little torque style screws holding the lid on.
After removing them to get the lid off you will need to use a Xacto knife and cut the glue joint as you are prying it off gently.
Search YouTube and you will find several videos showing what to re solder.
I hooked it back up to the truck and tested it. Sure enough and to my surprise when i turned the key on the ABS and Brake light went out
Brought it back inside and took the module back off so i could seal it. I used "the right stuff" Just a thin film so it would not all slop over on the inside The reinstalled it.
Had the wife help me with bleeding the brakes. Used my Solus Pro to cycle the ABS pump and re bleed the brakes twice.
ABS seems to work fine now stomping the brake on a dirt road.
If it continues to work that saved me about $350 bucks.
Next up will be the dreaded Exhaust manifold broken bolt fix but thats gonna be a week or two. Passenger side are all there, Drivers side has 2 broken bolts.
Got my driver's seat bottom changed today. Looks a lot better than the ripped up one it had.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Next weekend I'm picking up a was running when wrecked 2002 6.0LS for $400.
Can't tell the miles as the dash cluster is gone but for the price it will be fun to do something with over the winter.
Can't tell the miles as the dash cluster is gone but for the price it will be fun to do something with over the winter.
Reluctanse
I'm Awesome
That an LQ4? Plans?
Im not sure actually but it will give me options. Before i do anything with it i think a compression check is a good idea.
Around here $400 is a good core price it seems like so it's worth taking a chance on.
Around here $400 is a good core price it seems like so it's worth taking a chance on.
Out driving around today and it drives nice. Steering is tight, Shocks feel good, Trans shifts fine and damn, i am not used to no rattles or squeaks. Interior and body are tight.
Steering seems stiff but im use to my 98 steering that i can steer with 1 finger.
Also, the check engine light came on. Check the code and it was knock sensors. Seems to be a normal thing with LS engines over 100K and will get them changed in a week or two.
After driving it i can say for sure the 98, 454 feels like it does pull harder from about 1,200 rpm but runs outta power around 4,600ish rpm.
The 01, 6.0 out pulls the 454 from about 3k rpm up to 5,200 rpm when it shifts.
Steering seems stiff but im use to my 98 steering that i can steer with 1 finger.
Also, the check engine light came on. Check the code and it was knock sensors. Seems to be a normal thing with LS engines over 100K and will get them changed in a week or two.
After driving it i can say for sure the 98, 454 feels like it does pull harder from about 1,200 rpm but runs outta power around 4,600ish rpm.
The 01, 6.0 out pulls the 454 from about 3k rpm up to 5,200 rpm when it shifts.
Suburban1500
I'm Awesome
Nice!
