my 1994 silverado

[Moparmat2000]

Today i was able to free up, clean, and lube up all 8 of the headlight adjustors. Also sandblasted the headlight buckets and bulb retainers. Got the headlight bulbs in my cart at rock auto. May buy them today.

Cleaning the adjustors was a bit of a pain and took several hours. I used an aluminum etch acid called alumiprep 33 to clean the brass on the adjustors along with a brass wire brush to polish them up and a rinse. I soaked them in hot soapy water , and blew em out with compressed air. Then with the headlight bucket linear jack screws removed i kept spraying them with LPS-2 penetrating oil, and worked the gear adjustor parts both directions with a 1/4" socket and an air drill until they freed up to where they would turn easily. Then i rinsed em out with laquer thinner, and using a syringe, i packed them with Aeroshell 22 synthetic grease.

Honestly i didnt think they were going to free up from the get go and work as smoothly as they do. Its a testament to GMs design work on these. Using brass for the linear screw jack adjustors and the adjustor screw end with the gear, these things still work after all these years after cleaning them up.

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[Moparmat2000]

A little epoxy primer, then some rustoleum semi gloss black. When they are dry i will flip them over and do the front sides.

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[Moparmat2000]

Also i did figure out the brake problem after installing 2 different new Raybestos master cylinders and bleeding about 1.5 quarts of fluid thru the system and still having a low firm pedal and brake warning light feeling like like the rears werent working. I was thinking it was air. Problem ended up being the RWAL solenoid sticking open on bypass for rear brakes.

I bypassed it completely, and cut off all the bracketry going to the proportioning valve bracket for it and the brain box to clean it up. Threw the RWAL valve in the scrap bucket. Will eventually dewire and remove the RWAL plug from the body, but for now its just tucked in the harness. Brakes are great now. Master cylinder area looks much cleaner without all the extra warts hanging off it. LOL

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[94burbk1500]

IDK who told you that you have to remove the grille to change headlight bulbs, but that's simply not true. I did have to scoot my battery back a few inches to change the one on the passenger side, but that's it. I guess that doesn't matter now that you have the quads. Nice truck, keep up the good work!

 

[Moparmat2000]

Only saw one hole each side for the W/T lamps in the rad support. You can just about get to the low beams that way but its pretty tight. I dont think theres access holes in the support for the high beams though. I like the 2 screws and unplug method for the bulb change. Maybe i'm more old skool, but even so i like the glass sealed beams with the 94 up grille. Heres a pic of a holden suburban with the sealed beams and newer grille.

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[Moparmat2000]

The plastic wire holders are brittle as heck. I think these are in place on the main fiberglass bucket to keep the wire plugs from falling back behind the headlights when changing a bulb. I had 1 good one to template off of. Made a prototype out of .032" aluminum in about 20 mins. I figure i could pop rivet them in, or bolt and nut them in, my alternate is 1/8" black lexan plastic. The aluminum ones if i decide on that route, i will use a rubber grommets on the wire holes , and of course primer and paint.

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[Moparmat2000]

Well i guess the lexan plastic optional idea is out. Took about 30 more minutes to whittle out the remaining 3 since i had the pattern made and was already tooled up to drill them.

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[Moparmat2000]

Got these nasty things scrubbed clean, cobwebs removed, shot a coat of semi flat black on them. Will post that tomorrow.

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[Moparmat2000]

Fiberglass mounting buckets are painted and dry. I love reassembling stuff with fresh paint and clean parts. Headlights are ordered. Wagner Halogens from Rockauto. $37 and change shipped. Will probably start reassembly this weekend.

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[Moparmat2000]

I believe this is gonna work just fine

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