my 1994 silverado

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Moparmat2000

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Wow, I havent been on here for awhile. Was pretty busy over the winter and thru the spring with a lot of stuff. Some automotive related, some not. Plus surgery, recuperation from that, and crazy chit at work. I have some more cuda pix. Finally grafted the donor rear quarter top sections on the barracuda. Lots of work but the trunk closes nice and square, and all the rotted crap is finally gone. I had to repair the trunk gutter on the drivers side since it has the vin number and needs to be retained.

I have turned the corner on this thing so to speak. No more large metal pieces getting tossed into the scrap trailer. Only thing getting tossed in there is metal dog food, and people food cans, as well as small trimmings.
 

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Moparmat2000

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Started on actually fittng the LH quarter skin, and trunk drop. Goodmark skins leave a bit to be desired, but will work. I kept the tops of the original skins and flanged them for the quarter skin to fit into. There were 4 key points on skin alignment. Height of the filler neck, wheel opening centered front to back, a lower front body line, and the rear bumper mount hole. With all those lined up, it's where it's going to be.

The AMD trunk drops fit terrible at the front. My outer wheel houses are AMD as well so I expected a bit better. Wheelhouse mate flanges are too low in the back. I had to cut and move it up, and make it all fit, as well as cut the trunk drop and draw it in at the front. These are some of the issues you have to deal with when working with repop stuff just to make it all fit.
 

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Moparmat2000

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Had to hammer and dolley the rear of the quarter skin so it fit behind the valance like it's supposed to.
 

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Dubs

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Started on actually fittng the LH quarter skin, and trunk drop. Goodmark skins leave a bit to be desired, but will work. I kept the tops of the original skins and flanged them for the quarter skin to fit into. There were 4 key points on skin alignment. Height of the filler neck, wheel opening centered front to back, a lower front body line, and the rear bumper mount hole. With all those lined up, it's where it's going to be.

The AMD trunk drops fit terrible at the front. My outer wheel houses are AMD as well so I expected a bit better. Wheelhouse mate flange was too low. I had to cut and move it up, and make it all fit, as well as cut the trunk drop and draw it in at the front.
Hell of a great job you've done. Keep it up
 

Moparmat2000

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Working with aftermarket stuff quite sucks actually. The wheel opening arch on the goodmark skin was 5/8" lower at the top and 3/8" lower at the back than the outer wheelhouse flange. Too much of a gap to pull it together and weld it without distorting the new skin. Only fix I could come up with was to lower the outer wheel house flange to meet the skin flange where it's at. When done and wheel opening stainless trim installed, nobody will ever know that this is what I had to do to fix it. The sucky part is I will have to repeat all this on the passenger side so everything is the same.
 

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Moparmat2000

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Last 2 things that slowed me up were hernia surgery, and a gall bladder removal both at the same time. So recovery from that, then I go back to work, and we had a major thing going on that I got put into, or voluntold to do. Over a month of 12 hour days and only 4 days off in a month. Hey the money was great, but at 53 years old i felt like death warmed over when it was done. I get the last check with overtime this next friday.
 

Moparmat2000

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So I'm thinking I'm not really liking the KYBs i put on my silverado and looking at something to soften up the ride a little bit. Gonna research a little more but thinking I want it to ride a tad more softer like it did when it was a new truck. I know my polyurethane bushings will keep it a little stiff. Also looking into LED replacement bulbs as well. I want everything lit brighter.

My 2008 chevy HHR wagon daily driver is finally shot. 15 years and 200K on it. I knew i was going to need to replace it and have been looking / saving for something the last 2 years. I will probably keep it for a spare vehicle, but it will need new lower control arms, a windshield, and a turn signal switch.

Used stuff half worn out and no warranty for like new prices doesnt appeal to me. For a daily driver i honestly didnt care what it is except it had to be either a chevy, ford, or dodge, and it had to check off the right boxes in my mind for what I need it for. It needs 4 doors, a small 4 cylinder engine, either a wagon, or sedan with a pass thru from the trunk. I was figuring mini pickup, but nobody makes these anymore, or so I thought.

Last october poking around on the net I found the 2022 ford maverick. A 4 door mini truck available with either a FWD hybrid drivetrain that standard with 42mpg and can tow 2,000 lbs or carry 1,500 lbs in its bed, or optional 2.0 turbo, AWD, 30mpg and optional 4,000 lb tow package.

As a daily driver this will do what I use my HHR for and more. It checked off the more door box, and 4 cylinder box. But added boxes to check off I didnt think I needed. AWD, Turbo, tow hitch, android linked 8" center touch screen, smallish truck bed for most of my needs, with the big needs still done with my silverado. All done up in a slick looking little package.

The AWD will be great for wintertime with our freak snow storms, and 1,500 lb payload is plenty for running engine blocks to and from the machine shop. It has an 8" touch screen, and I can synch my android to it, and use the screen for google maps off my phone.

I ordered one in december from a dealer in Iowa doing $3K off MSRP to boost their future allocations. They will also take my Texas farm Bureau membership for as another $500 off. 2.0 turbo XLT AWD with a regular tow hitch, full size spare, and in cab 400W 110V power inverter. I did not get the 4K tow package since I dont think pulling 4,000 lbs is very wise with a turbo 4 banger, but with all these B.S. supply chain issues I probably won't likely see it until october. $24,025 after discounts and paperwork fees plus sales tax for a decently loaded mini pickup is pretty reasonable these days.

I did order some high bright LED 3rd brakelight bulbs, and bed light LEDs for the maverick. It uses the same OEM 3rd brakelight and bed light bulbs as my silverado. Anyhoo, these do a panic flash 4 times before going solid on, and are damn bright. I bench tested these. It should get anybodies attention unless your in a coma. I am also going to get these and the bed lights in LEDs for the Silverado. Pretty inexpensive a pair of the panic flash ones are about $14 a pair, and the bed light ones are about $8 a pair. Heres pic below of the panic flash ones I got from evilbay, and a pic of what I got on order.
 

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Moparmat2000

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You do some really awesome work, and we appreciate the fact that you take these pics and show us!
Thanks. This car has been a head scratcher to say the least with a lot of what I have had to redo on it plus how much more I have to go. Farthest I have ever been into anything structural wise to rebuild it. I hope a lot of the stuff I have had to do can be applied to GMT400s and more. Some of this unibody stuff can also apply to GM full frame cars like chevelles, or subframe cars like novas and Camaros, and even mustangs and torinos.

What's going to stall it out now is I lost 2 good months due to surgery and recuperation, and then crazy chit for a month at work. I figured out that changing corroded seat tracks on EMB 175 regional jets kinda sucks.

Now we are going into the hot months here in west Texas where 105° is a regular occurence until the end of september. That my friends is a show stopper for me. Working in that for 10 hours, 8 days straight before I get 6 days off makes me stay in the A/C. This dry assed heat and little rain is the reason OBS GMT400 trucks plastics and rubber parts dont last out here, but the sheetmetal looks fantastic, and the floors stay solid.
 
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Moparmat2000

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To give an idea on the wheelhouse to outer wheel opening gap, heres pix. The last 2 pix show the gap closed up after lowering the wheel house arch. Pix are shown front , middle, rear, then front, and middle after cutting, and moving , and before adding metal to lower them. The gap is close enough now that it can be clamped together for welding and not distort the outer skin.
 

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