Mrs. Skylark's 06 GTO

[skylark]

Time for a bit of an update.
Rear end;
Subframe bushings
Control arm bushings
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar endlink bushings
Bump stops
Diff mount
All above are from Whiteline.
We also machined the rotors and used Raybestos professional series ceramic pads
Aligned the rear cradle with the proper tool
Lovells .75 drop springs
Koni shocks

Front end;
Control arm bushings
Radius rod bushings
Steering rack bushing
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar endlinks
Strut mounts
Again, all above from Whiteline
Ball joints
Tie rod ends
Lovells .75 drop springs
Koni struts
Akebono ceramic pads
4 wheel alignment with a lot of positive caster.

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[skylark]

Carried over from another forum.

It was a great GTO day until about 6 o'clock. I spent I spent the day with my wife and my boy working on the GTO. We started about 10 o'clock and the plan was to finish by dinner. Unfortunately what happened was way off of that. We installed the new fast 102 intake manifold and the Harlen Sharp 1.8 roller rockers and had nothing but problems with both. When we fired up the GTO we were hearing strange noises out of the driver's side head at the rear. I swapped the rockers from front to rear and the noise didn't move. I swapped the factory rockers back in and the noise is gone. Problem one kind of halfway solved. Problem two, she runs like crap. What is going on is the 02 sensors aren't reading at all, my scan tool is showing 70 plus volts for the map sensor and she is throwing codes for being lean. Imagine that. I checked to make sure that none of the wiring got pinched anywhere and it didn't. I checked for a good ground at the map sensor and it is. I checked for 5 V reference and it is there. At its crappy idle it has approximately 2 V out of the sense wire. She has no power whatsoever when driving. She acts like she has no timing. Randomly the traction control will shut off now and will not turn back on. Yes I have checked the BCM wires behind the glove box. I don't know what the heck happened.


I couldn't sleep thinking about this problem. I got my happy butt out of bed and headed down to the shop. When I jumped in I didn't have power seats, dash lights, abs/traction control were warning me and the dash said check battery. I ohms checked the wiring from the map sensor to the pcm. All was good. I looked at the bcm wiring behind the glove box again. I added an additional ground from the head to the body ground by the strut tower. I smoke checked the engine and found a leak at the map sensor. It has cracked under the orange seal. I don't believe that this will solve the problem because I robbed one that isn't identical but wired the same and I got the same results. It is now just about 3am. I think that it is time to go home.


I couldn't resist. I drove her over my alignment pit and shined a flashlight up behind the heads. I was surprised to find a small obviously open for awhile vacuum line. I looked all over under the hood and couldn't find where it went. I got on here and it appears that we should have a heater control valve that isn't here. Yea...

In other news, I don't know exactly what I did but the car is running extremely strong. Yes I know that it is 70 degrees out but dang! The only upgrade is just the Fast 102. The new throttle body hasn't arrived yet and we had to pull the 1.8 rockers back off.

It is now 4am and I have to be up in 2 hours. Happy wife, happy life!

 

[Jermaine Smith]

Love your car. One of favorite colors on those cars as well. Nothing like LS power. Here is my LS2 powered 2000 6 speed Z28.

 

[red98]

Time for a bit of an update.
Rear end;
Subframe bushings
Control arm bushings
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar endlink bushings
Bump stops
Diff mount
All above are from Whiteline.
We also machined the rotors and used Raybestos professional series ceramic pads
Aligned the rear cradle with the proper tool
Lovells .75 drop springs
Koni shocks

Front end;
Control arm bushings
Radius rod bushings
Steering rack bushing
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar endlinks
Strut mounts
Again, all above from Whiteline
Ball joints
Tie rod ends
Lovells .75 drop springs
Koni struts
Akebono ceramic pads
4 wheel alignment with a lot of positive caster.

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I know essentially nothing about alignments, but it almost looks like you're farther off spec now than before the alignment? Is that on purpose for handling or something?

 

[skylark]

I know essentially nothing about alignments, but it almost looks like you're farther off spec now than before the alignment? Is that on purpose for handling or something?

The left column is when I put it on the rack. From the top down is;
Front caster
Front camber
Front toe
Rear camber
Rear toe.
Caster the foreward angle of the ball joint to the centerline from vertical caster numbers are intentionally further from spec because there is no downside to positive caster outer than slightly stiffer steering feel. The positive is that the more caster the faster the car will return to center and be more stable.

The camber was left alone due to being within spec and wanting to see how she handles and wears tires. The important part is to be fairly even.

Toe is the angle that the leading edge of the tire is pointing inward or outward. Front and rear toe are dead in the middle of spec. You can see the initial rear toe was off and the car would've slightly dog walked. I bought the tool to properly locate the cradle and adjusted the rear toe so that it drives straight as an arrow.

 

[Supercharged111]

Wimp! My Camaro runs -3* of camber up front, probably 5 ish on the caster. Just under 1/8" total toe in and a half degree negative cber on the stick axle. Spec sucks.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Check out my sweetie's new ride! We bought her a 2006 Pontiac GTO. It is brazen orange metallic with a black leather interior, LS2, T56, 3.46 gears with a limited slip, rear IRS and 4 wheel disc.

We bought it in Vallejo, California from a guy who has an 800+hp drift GTO and a crap ton of other LS powered vehicles.

This one is mostly stock. The radio has been changed and it is sitting on 19" wheels that look like the stock 18" wheels.

It has a slight miss, a bad ac tensioner, some minor dings and scratches, the electric trunk release doesn't work and it needs some front end bushings.

The above items will get taken care of as well as a new shifter (we both hate this one), replacement key fob, 2nd key and a trip to the tuners.

It did great on the drive home. It pulled 24mpg @ 65-70mph in a bunch of rolling hills. My 190hp 4.3 S10 only managed 22mpg. The GTO weighs the extra same (3900 pounds with driver) has 400hp and got better mileage...

It has been time for my beautiful wife to have a nice vehicle. She has a ton of medical issues and the bills pile up fast. Fortunately we have everything hitting us just right financially at the moment that even though we took out a small loan that we will have it paid off in less than 2 months.

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Nice Holden

 

[skylark]

Wimp! My Camaro runs -3* of camber up front, probably 5 ish on the caster. Just under 1/8" total toe in and a half degree negative cber on the stick axle. Spec sucks.

This is just a starting point for her daily driver.

 

[Supercharged111]

This is just a starting point for her daily driver.

It's an interesting approach leading the camber with so much caster. Highest I've ever seen on a Corvette is in the 7-8 range.

 

[skylark]

It's an interesting approach leading the camber with so much caster. Highest I've ever seen on a Corvette is in the 7-8 range.

It definitely seems to work well. Stock specs call for 6.5-9. I have the ability to go more but I want to wait until the new tires and wheels are on.