Most current Alternator upgrade for 94 TBI?

[Rcn11thacr]

Hi All,

I have a 1994 K1500 w/a 350 that i gave to my son recently and we are doing a father son project. After reading the threads, it appears that the HIGHEST FACTORY amperage alternator swap is the AD244 for this vehicle. Am i correct? We are in the process of building a pretty serious stereo (about 4.5K watts), winch, lights, E-fan, and will need dual alternators to power this set-up. A Big 3 is already in place with 1/0 gauge cable and dual 1/0 main power to the cab). Without having to reinvent the wheel, i have a few questions and i hope to find some answers here.

1. If the AD244 is the most current alternator swap for this vehicle, which donor vehicle would i find the highest amperage alternator in? Hoping for 200+ amps each.
2. Am i correct that the AC Delco PT2145 Alternator Conversion Jumper Harness is the correct 'Pigtail Harness' to order?
3. Would anyone happen to have a link or diagram of a dual alternator bracket, with a set of plans with enough details and dimensions, so i could make one in my shop? I have the tools and can fabricate, that's not an issue.
4. Considering we will be using 2 alternators in parallel (with dual batteries), how does the 'Pigtail Harness' come into play in this scenario? I assume i need 2 of them. Is the wiring straight forward, or will the wiring be different in some way?
5. The 'L' Wire (Charge Light Indicator) will be soldered to the AD244 yellow harness wire, correct? Its my understanding the 'L" must go to a resisted terminal (not just a 12 volt) and must have a resistor inline, correct? What type of resistor is required?
6. The blue sense wire goes to the junction block on the firewall, correct (or is it used on this year model)?
7. Not sure about 'I' and 'F' (Field Engage/Excite Circuit) pins mentioned in other threads or if it's need in this case since i don't currently have a AD244 to look at.
8. My truck has a tachometer. How do i wire this considering the AD244 has a pin to measure RPM?
9. Any idea what belt should be used for this set-up?
10. I have seen mention of an AD244R. What is the difference between an AD244 and an AD244R?
11. What are the benefits of removing an AD244 4 pin and swapping it out with the updated 2 pin voltage regulator and is this helpful in this scenario?
12. Am i missing anything?

Considering the AD244 comes on many of the Duramax engines and the alternator is specifically designed for that vehicle to put a lot of voltage out at idle, it would be great in this application since this vehicle will idle and need lots of current at idle. Many of these come with huge amperage ratings as a factory option, 125, 145, 160, etc. With that stated, i assume these alternators for diesels also RPM governed to diesel RPM's. Meaning, they cannot be used on a gas burner because of the difference in the RPM between the vehicles? Can changing the pully size alter this and make it work-able on a gas burner (if this is an issue)?

Thank you all for your input!

 

[df2x4]

Just a thought, but are you sure that two AD244s will give you the output current you need for almost 5K watts of stereo when the engine is idling? Most alternators are nowhere near their peak amperage output when the engine is at idle speed. I'm not sure what the average AD244 can put out at idle...

DC Power Inc, Ohio Generator, and Mechman all sell alternators for our trucks designed specifically for high end audio systems that can produce a ton of amps (think 200+) at idle. It might be easier to shell out the cash for one of those and stick with a single alternator.

 

[Schurkey]

8. My truck has a tachometer. How do i wire this considering the AD244 has a pin to measure RPM?

You don't use the alternator for RPM. That's a Diesel thing, where there's no electrical ignition system. Your truck measures RPM for the tach via the existing ignition system.

 

[Rcn11thacr]

Just a thought, but are you sure that two AD244s will give you the output current you need for almost 5K watts of stereo when the engine is idling? Most alternators are nowhere near their peak amperage output when the engine is at idle speed. I'm not sure what the average AD244 can put out at idle...

DC Power Inc, Ohio Generator, and Mechman all sell alternators for our trucks designed specifically for high end audio systems that can produce a ton of amps (think 200+) at idle. It might be easier to shell out the cash for one of those and stick with a single alternator.

I think in many of the situations this truck will be in, two AD244's idling will be sufficient for the given need considering the total output will not be required 'all of the time'. That's why i am going the route of using two in this case to provide the output desired at idle. Your correct that those companies listed do provide great alternators ( I have a DC Power 270 on my Duramax). However given the small cash available to my son (he is required to foot the bill on this), it's much cheaper for him to pick up two HO alternators from the wrecking yard and build a dual bracket to hold them.

This is also why i asked about using Duramax alternators because i know some came factory with over 200 amps with the snow plow option, plus there is always the chance he can find one in an ambulance or other type vehicle. He can buy two of these and the steel for the bracket for 30% of the cost of one DC Power alternator. They are almost $700 each (for the 270 amp version) with tax and shipping and the price is about to go up as of earlier this month when i spoke to them. I'll supply the tools and additional know-how, but he has to supply the cash and sweat equity for this endeavor.

The average stock AD244 puts out 100 amps out at idle. If he upgrades the alternator with a kit similar to this: https://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/ad244/ he can gain some amperage for cheaper than going the big name route. That site has some good information BTW...

Thank you for your comments also.

 

[Rcn11thacr]

You don't use the alternator for RPM. That's a Diesel thing, where there's no electrical ignition system. Your truck measures RPM for the tach via the existing ignition system.

Thanks. I am gathering information from all over this site for this project and not all of it fits together for this particular model. That's why i asked the question. Thanks for clarifying for me.

 

[Rcn11thacr]

This is a daily driver truck with a kickin stereo that can also be taken to a sound competition or outdoor event where he and his buddies can have plenty of tunes. I did not intend to give the indication this will be a dedicated sound competition vehicle that only sits in the lanes and never moves.

 

[df2x4]

I did not intend to give the indication this will be a dedicated sound competition vehicle that only sits in the lanes and never moves.

You didn't, or at least I didn't read it that way. I only mentioned the idle output because even if you only crank the tunes to full volume sitting at idle once in a while, you'll see voltage drop and lights will dim every time the bass hits if the alternator(s) can't keep up. If your estimate of 4.5K watts worth of stereo is accurate (and a continuous/RMS rating) then that's a lot of current demand, even with modern class D amps. Just something to be aware of.

 

[AuroraGirl]

if you buy an AD244 you can either modify the thing to have a connection from the P terminal(Phase) to the stator and you can use it for a tachometer or an hour meter, just note that this only gives you an AC signal so you have to have a tach that reads that. All I know is you probably dont want to go through all that for an ac signal but if you DO you can.

if you want to seriously make the ad244 dual setup last a long time, I would say get a remote rectifier. The only thing that stands to harm them is temperature and if you dont make the brackets right, your belt/tensioners. id suggest a kit, if this is a big block or a small block chevy there are a lot of pre-fab bracket sets or factory brackets out there. AD244 would be the highest outputting factory 4 pin alternators that came on a truck(To my knowledge) but there were higher outputting alts that came later under the 2 pin era but you need to have a PWM controller for those.

Also a battery will go a long ways for audio than just the alternators. if you have the right wiring and battery setup, the battery will take the occasional needs and then the alts will handle the demand and keep that charged.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

if you buy an AD244 you can either modify the thing to have a connection from the P terminal(Phase) to the stator and you can use it for a tachometer or an hour meter, just note that this only gives you an AC signal so you have to have a tach that reads that. All I know is you probably dont want to go through all that for an ac signal but if you DO you can.

if you want to seriously make the ad244 dual setup last a long time, I would say get a remote rectifier. The only thing that stands to harm them is temperature and if you dont make the brackets right, your belt/tensioners. id suggest a kit, if this is a big block or a small block chevy there are a lot of pre-fab bracket sets or factory brackets out there. AD244 would be the highest outputting factory 4 pin alternators that came on a truck(To my knowledge) but there were higher outputting alts that came later under the 2 pin era but you need to have a PWM controller for those.

Also a battery will go a long ways for audio than just the alternators. if you have the right wiring and battery setup, the battery will take the occasional needs and then the alts will handle the demand and keep that charged.

31 series batteries are beasts but heavy. I have one in the factory tray on my 97 Van.

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[Rcn11thacr]

if you buy an AD244 you can either modify the thing to have a connection from the P terminal(Phase) to the stator and you can use it for a tachometer or an hour meter, just note that this only gives you an AC signal so you have to have a tach that reads that. All I know is you probably dont want to go through all that for an ac signal but if you DO you can.

if you want to seriously make the ad244 dual setup last a long time, I would say get a remote rectifier. The only thing that stands to harm them is temperature and if you dont make the brackets right, your belt/tensioners. id suggest a kit, if this is a big block or a small block chevy there are a lot of pre-fab bracket sets or factory brackets out there. AD244 would be the highest outputting factory 4 pin alternators that came on a truck(To my knowledge) but there were higher outputting alts that came later under the 2 pin era but you need to have a PWM controller for those.

Also a battery will go a long ways for audio than just the alternators. if you have the right wiring and battery setup, the battery will take the occasional needs and then the alts will handle the demand and keep that charged.

Initially i was planning on running this dual battery setup in parallel as mentioned previously. After giving this more thought i believe it would be better planned as an alternate setup. This will ensure a teenager doesn't run both batteries dry due to a lack of paying attention and the obvious inability to crank up afterwards. It will also give the opportunity to divorce the alternators and plum in remote rectifiers as you mention, thereby also increasing output voltage. Given i can add underdrive pulleys, that will also increase idle amperage output as well.