Misfire - Cylinder 4 - Check Engine Light at 55-60 MPH acceration under load

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m002922

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At my wits end on this . . . if anyone has any ideas let me know. Trying not to fire the parts cannon at this . . . most of whats been done below was just previous preventative maintenance that thereby rules out those possible issues.

I'm getting a misfire cylinder 4 check engine light that generally trips between 55-60 MPH as a I get on the highway and am accelerating (into the gas, but not to the floor). I get a blinking check engine light with pretty serious stuttering . . . then the check engine light goes on solid. I get the cylinder 4 misfire code.

I've read through this thread (though different symptoms): https://www.gmt400.com/threads/misfire-issue.35866/

And I'll use this as kind of a checklist of what I've looked at . . .

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

The engine is totally stock.

The engine does have a knock which I believe is the a rod bearing (based off of oil sample tests and the sound) - the engine has good oil pressure though, and it gets quieter when the engine warms up. Admittedly, on a cold Florida morning (40s) it sounds pretty awful, but at this point I'm just seeing how long it will go. The odometer (though I'm a bit skeptical) has 96k miles on it.

The truck seems to idle fine, it doesn't seem like it's "perfect" - but it's not bad either. The idle doesn't set off the check engine light.

The CEL is consistently cylinder 4 (it's tripped and I've reset it 5-10 times as I've tried different things), though today it threw a cylinder 8, I double checked that plug wire after the work I had done, I reset it, and then I got the CEL back immediately (on highway acceleration) at cylinder 4.

The last three times its thrown the code was with premium gas in it.

After looking at the timing readings with a Torque OBDII Phone App (it did seem like timing was moving around a lot - but I'm not exactly sure what normal looks like) I tried pulling the knock sensor to see if the engine knock was triggering the engine to pull timing - if memory serves even with that pulled the engine did the same thing, so I put it back in.

Plug 4 looks fine - not oily or wet. I've swapped plug 2 with 4, same issue with cylinder 4. I've swapped plug wires (2 to 4), same issue with 4. I've checked all wire connections at the cap and rotor and the plugs. I've swapped cap and rotors.

Fuel pump and spider injection are new. Compression is good. MAF checks good - I cleaned it not too long ago and it responds appropriately with throttle. I've pulled the valve cover and both the intake and exhaust valves seeming to actuate fully on cylinder 4 (I checked by turning it by hand so I could get a good look), and I adjusted them to 1 full turn past tapping with the engine running. Good oil flow up all the pushrods on the even cylinder bank.

(Sidenote, on the odd side of the engine one of the pushrods shoots oil out of it - like hitting the firewall - I did some googling on it and while odd, it didn't seem problematic or dangerous, so I didn't worry about it).


The lower intake manifold gaskets were done about 2 years ago now (with the heavy fel pros) and I don't see any evidence of an issue there. Cat converters were replaced a few months ago (I was getting cat converter CELs that have not come back with the new cats - which I suspect were ruined either by age of by the fact that I drove around with bad lower intake gaskets for some time) with 3 of 4 new O2 sensors (the new are all Bosch, it appears the remaining old one is as well).

I haven't had the truck on a highway trip since this started happening consistently, but it seems to be intermittent on the highway once I'm up to 55-60 in 3rd (accelerating) or 4th. Under part throttle no load the miss either isn't there, or I just can't tell it's there.

The one thing I haven't done is check grounds . . . but given that it is focused on Cylinder 4, I'm not sure if it makes sense to do that or not.

The Coil and the little chip next to the coil (which name escapes me) are new. The Distributor is a new Cardone unit and seems fine.

If you have any ideas let me know.

Really appreciate this forum. I used all the threads on the different cams to put together my shopping list for when this engine goes . . . appreciate everyone's input.
 

east302

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The GM manual doesn’t break it down by cylinder misfire code, but refers to the random
P0300 for diagnostic. Here are the tables, maybe it will help. There was also a TSB that may apply.

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96dually454

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Check your cap and rotor real good. I've seen one cylinder get affected from a bad cap that was new. Check it for carbon arcing inside. Also when dark pop the hood, have someone load the motor and spray water from a spray bottle on your wires, if you see any arcing your plug wires are leaking spark. May be only leaking at the rpm range you described.
 

m002922

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Thanks guys. That TSB seems pretty dead on to my symptoms.

The last cap I pulled and traded out for another didn't have what I considered to be carbon arcing, but there was "fuzz" buildup on the rotor arm and the cap connections . . . but under that fuzz everything was fine. Both were barely used, the one having been pulled out when I had a previous ignition issue and we were throwing parts at it.
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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FWIW, I chased a random misfire for a couple years. I could feel it while driving but it never set a light. Then, it got worse and was unlocking the converter around 2K RPMS while cruising on the highway Now, If I get the truck to 85mph, the light will flash until I back out of it. I have replaced all the common stuff to try and fix this issue and I'm now almost convinced, its a cracked head.
 

Supercharged111

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FWIW, I chased a random misfire for a couple years. I could feel it while driving but it never set a light. Then, it got worse and was unlocking the converter around 2K RPMS while cruising on the highway Now, If I get the truck to 85mph, the light will flash until I back out of it. I have replaced all the common stuff to try and fix this issue and I'm now almost convinced, its a cracked head.

Pretty much where I'm at too. Probably cheaper to buy new vs sending my spares to the machine shop.
 

m002922

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Given that I'm very confident I have a rod knock as well as this persistent problem, assuming I can't solve it (and it's looking like I can't) this will be the straw that broke the camel's back . . . time to get a new crate engine with some minor upgrades (HT383 cam, rockers, etc) and do the 0411 thing . . . I can't believe I'm replacing an engine that apparently only has 96k on it, but hopefully I'll have much better luck with a new GM crate motor that will be cared for by me from day one.
 

Scott Martin

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At my wits end on this . . . if anyone has any ideas let me know. Trying not to fire the parts cannon at this . . . most of whats been done below was just previous preventative maintenance that thereby rules out those possible issues.
I was having this problem for the past several years and I just figured out how to make it stop... I decided to try putting some premium gas in and to my astonishment it fixed my misfire and shudder problems!
I'm getting a misfire cylinder 4 check engine light that generally trips between 55-60 MPH as a I get on the highway and am accelerating (into the gas, but not to the floor). I get a blinking check engine light with pretty serious stuttering . . . then the check engine light goes on solid. I get the cylinder 4 misfire code.

I've read through this thread (though different symptoms): https://www.gmt400.com/threads/misfire-issue.35866/

And I'll use this as kind of a checklist of what I've looked at . . .

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

The engine is totally stock.

The engine does have a knock which I believe is the a rod bearing (based off of oil sample tests and the sound) - the engine has good oil pressure though, and it gets quieter when the engine warms up. Admittedly, on a cold Florida morning (40s) it sounds pretty awful, but at this point I'm just seeing how long it will go. The odometer (though I'm a bit skeptical) has 96k miles on it.

The truck seems to idle fine, it doesn't seem like it's "perfect" - but it's not bad either. The idle doesn't set off the check engine light.

The CEL is consistently cylinder 4 (it's tripped and I've reset it 5-10 times as I've tried different things), though today it threw a cylinder 8, I double checked that plug wire after the work I had done, I reset it, and then I got the CEL back immediately (on highway acceleration) at cylinder 4.

The last three times its thrown the code was with premium gas in it.

After looking at the timing readings with a Torque OBDII Phone App (it did seem like timing was moving around a lot - but I'm not exactly sure what normal looks like) I tried pulling the knock sensor to see if the engine knock was triggering the engine to pull timing - if memory serves even with that pulled the engine did the same thing, so I put it back in.

Plug 4 looks fine - not oily or wet. I've swapped plug 2 with 4, same issue with cylinder 4. I've swapped plug wires (2 to 4), same issue with 4. I've checked all wire connections at the cap and rotor and the plugs. I've swapped cap and rotors.

Fuel pump and spider injection are new. Compression is good. MAF checks good - I cleaned it not too long ago and it responds appropriately with throttle. I've pulled the valve cover and both the intake and exhaust valves seeming to actuate fully on cylinder 4 (I checked by turning it by hand so I could get a good look), and I adjusted them to 1 full turn past tapping with the engine running. Good oil flow up all the pushrods on the even cylinder bank.

(Sidenote, on the odd side of the engine one of the pushrods shoots oil out of it - like hitting the firewall - I did some googling on it and while odd, it didn't seem problematic or dangerous, so I didn't worry about it).


The lower intake manifold gaskets were done about 2 years ago now (with the heavy fel pros) and I don't see any evidence of an issue there. Cat converters were replaced a few months ago (I was getting cat converter CELs that have not come back with the new cats - which I suspect were ruined either by age of by the fact that I drove around with bad lower intake gaskets for some time) with 3 of 4 new O2 sensors (the new are all Bosch, it appears the remaining old one is as well).

I haven't had the truck on a highway trip since this started happening consistently, but it seems to be intermittent on the highway once I'm up to 55-60 in 3rd (accelerating) or 4th. Under part throttle no load the miss either isn't there, or I just can't tell it's there.

The one thing I haven't done is check grounds . . . but given that it is focused on Cylinder 4, I'm not sure if it makes sense to do that or not.

The Coil and the little chip next to the coil (which name escapes me) are new. The Distributor is a new Cardone unit and seems fine.

If you have any ideas let me know.

Really appreciate this forum. I used all the threads on the different cams to put together my shopping list for when this engine goes . . . appreciate everyone's input.
At my wits end on this . . . if anyone has any ideas let me know. Trying not to fire the parts cannon at this . . . most of whats been done below was just previous preventative maintenance that thereby rules out those possible issues.

I'm getting a misfire cylinder 4 check engine light that generally trips between 55-60 MPH as a I get on the highway and am accelerating (into the gas, but not to the floor). I get a blinking check engine light with pretty serious stuttering . . . then the check engine light goes on solid. I get the cylinder 4 misfire code.

I've read through this thread (though different symptoms): https://www.gmt400.com/threads/misfire-issue.35866/

And I'll use this as kind of a checklist of what I've looked at . . .

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

The engine is totally stock.

The engine does have a knock which I believe is the a rod bearing (based off of oil sample tests and the sound) - the engine has good oil pressure though, and it gets quieter when the engine warms up. Admittedly, on a cold Florida morning (40s) it sounds pretty awful, but at this point I'm just seeing how long it will go. The odometer (though I'm a bit skeptical) has 96k miles on it.

The truck seems to idle fine, it doesn't seem like it's "perfect" - but it's not bad either. The idle doesn't set off the check engine light.

The CEL is consistently cylinder 4 (it's tripped and I've reset it 5-10 times as I've tried different things), though today it threw a cylinder 8, I double checked that plug wire after the work I had done, I reset it, and then I got the CEL back immediately (on highway acceleration) at cylinder 4.

The last three times its thrown the code was with premium gas in it.

After looking at the timing readings with a Torque OBDII Phone App (it did seem like timing was moving around a lot - but I'm not exactly sure what normal looks like) I tried pulling the knock sensor to see if the engine knock was triggering the engine to pull timing - if memory serves even with that pulled the engine did the same thing, so I put it back in.

Plug 4 looks fine - not oily or wet. I've swapped plug 2 with 4, same issue with cylinder 4. I've swapped plug wires (2 to 4), same issue with 4. I've checked all wire connections at the cap and rotor and the plugs. I've swapped cap and rotors.

Fuel pump and spider injection are new. Compression is good. MAF checks good - I cleaned it not too long ago and it responds appropriately with throttle. I've pulled the valve cover and both the intake and exhaust valves seeming to actuate fully on cylinder 4 (I checked by turning it by hand so I could get a good look), and I adjusted them to 1 full turn past tapping with the engine running. Good oil flow up all the pushrods on the even cylinder bank.

(Sidenote, on the odd side of the engine one of the pushrods shoots oil out of it - like hitting the firewall - I did some googling on it and while odd, it didn't seem problematic or dangerous, so I didn't worry about it).


The lower intake manifold gaskets were done about 2 years ago now (with the heavy fel pros) and I don't see any evidence of an issue there. Cat converters were replaced a few months ago (I was getting cat converter CELs that have not come back with the new cats - which I suspect were ruined either by age of by the fact that I drove around with bad lower intake gaskets for some time) with 3 of 4 new O2 sensors (the new are all Bosch, it appears the remaining old one is as well).

I haven't had the truck on a highway trip since this started happening consistently, but it seems to be intermittent on the highway once I'm up to 55-60 in 3rd (accelerating) or 4th. Under part throttle no load the miss either isn't there, or I just can't tell it's there.

The one thing I haven't done is check grounds . . . but given that it is focused on Cylinder 4, I'm not sure if it makes sense to do that or not.

The Coil and the little chip next to the coil (which name escapes me) are new. The Distributor is a new Cardone unit and seems fine.

If you have any ideas let me know.

Really appreciate this forum. I used all the threads on the different cams to put together my shopping list for when this engine goes . . . appreciate everyone's input.
 

Scott Martin

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I was having this problem for the past several years and I just figured out how to make it stop... I decided to try putting some premium gas in and to my astonishment it fixed my misfire and shudder problems!
 

df2x4

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I was having this problem for the past several years and I just figured out how to make it stop... I decided to try putting some premium gas in and to my astonishment it fixed my misfire and shudder problems!

Please don't take this negatively but it sounds to me like in your particular situation you fixed a symptom of the original issue, not the issue itself. Assuming everything is in good working order there is no reason that a stock engine on a stock tune in these trucks should need anything higher than 87 octane to run correctly. You're running lean for some reason.

Also the author of this thread states in his original post that his issue has shown up multiple times while he was running premium gas.
 
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