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MrPink

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I haven't started on my TBI engine harness since I don't need much of it except for the wiper plug and a couple other wires.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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On closer look at the "donor" harness, someone has already had a go at converting it to standalone. I guess they didn't need that connector. Could be good if they did it right. Probably not.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I think the OBS harness is basically done minus the pigtails that need replacing. I need to get like $80 worth of loom and electrical tape now, LOL.

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0xDEADBEEF

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The 96 has some differences from the pages on LT1swap that I noticed trying to figure out the evap system.

1) The evap vent solenoid control pin is in a different connector. It's in clear connecter, pin 15, Brown wire. (I think.)
2) You don't need the 5V and ground from the clear connector at all. (I think.)

You will need to send 5V, ground, and a wire to the PCM all the way to the tank to support a fuel tank pressure sensor. You will need to get the pressure sensor to sense the tank. (Guy on facebook said he used a T fitting off the vent lines, seems like it will work.)
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I got one of the trans pigtails replaced, but the other has drastically different wire gauges for the starter solenoid pin. The factory wire is like an 8 and the pigtail is maybe a 16. It's giving me pause of whether to use the new pigtail or clean and fix the factory one. I think the LS pcm needs to see one of the signals from this connector too. I need to research.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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LOL. Turns out the pigtail that I fixed is the one that is already in the other harness and that the PCM reads. Oh well. On the bright side I just need to clean up this connector and put the loom on and I'm done with that harness.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Now that I think about it, I'm glad we did the swap because we probably would have been chasing trans codes forever. I don't know if I would have thought to tear into the wiring loom if the continuity test passed. I already replaced the ignition switch because of one of the codes that I pulled before we started the swap. I'm pretty sure now that it wasn't the switch. Probably why the truck got parked in the first place.
 

thegawd

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I see you have moved on from replacing the plug... there is a way to release the terminals inside the plug and then solder new wires on to the old terminals and stick them back into the plug. either label them or do one at a time... I'd probably label and clean the shìt out of that plug before reusing it and putting it back together.

there are special tools for releasing wires from all kinds of different plugs but they are usually also released with a very small flat head screwdriver and or a pick.

I am usually to impatient to wait and or go searching for a replacement. although I have not done this particular job at all I have OCD with wiring and I solder and double wall shrink wrap every single thing I do, inside or out they should last forever.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Yeah, I got the 2 fat wires out already because I was thinking about just poking them into the new connector instead of soldering to the smaller gauge wiring.
 
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