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0xDEADBEEF

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Woke up early this morning to adjust the tune before it got hot out. It runs great but hates starting up and idling before it gets some temp in it. Kinda frustrating because I know what I want it to do, but I don't speak PCM. YouTube videos helped.

I improved it about 50%. I know it should be able to start without even touching the gas pedal, but it fires and then instantly dies if I do that. If I give it some pedal for a few seconds after it starts, it's good after that.
 

Supercharged111

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Woke up early this morning to adjust the tune before it got hot out. It runs great but hates starting up and idling before it gets some temp in it. Kinda frustrating because I know what I want it to do, but I don't speak PCM. YouTube videos helped.

I improved it about 50%. I know it should be able to start without even touching the gas pedal, but it fires and then instantly dies if I do that. If I give it some pedal for a few seconds after it starts, it's good after that.

Your VE is probably hosed, that's what mine did when VE was off. Fire instantly, run good for a second or 2, then stumble and once it's going everything is fine.
 

BPR Speed

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Yeah, I haven't gotten around to putting the WBO2 in yet.
Do you have an option or table for coolant temp enrichment? It may need to be adjusted for cold idle enrichment. I had to add about 12.5% injector duty cycle on my Haltech set-up and that seemed to clear up cold starts and initial cold idle issues with accompanied dying. A wideband 02 is a must for tuning, it'll tell you a lot about what's going on. Just make sure you calibrate it "free air" for about 20 mins before installing and starting (careful it'll be hot) On race gas and e85 I usually free air calibrate wide band sensors once monthly for e85 or day after running at the track on anything 100 octane or higher. Regular pump gas wide bands are happy once installed and get looked at once a year.
 

Supercharged111

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He should, but that would be nothing more than a bandaid. There's an ECT vs RPM or MAP. My dually's was set to pig rich for a cold idle and it STUNK. Changed it all to 1.000 and saw a big improvement. I think though that the application it was from may have had an air pump. Mine does not. With a custom operating system, you can use that table (which becomes RPM vs MAP) to gradually richen up the AFR with semi-open loop mode instead of swinging right from stoich to PE mode.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Project update. The boy got 90% of the interior put back in and he's been hounding me to drive it.

I took it to get inspected today and it would have passed except for 2 things: middle brake light is out, and he said it had exhaust leaks.

Granted, this was at a muffler shop and he may have been trying to extract more money from me, but I think he hooked it up to a scanner with data that was showing one bank was rich (again). I need to hook up the scanner again. Last time I magically "fixed" it by swapping coils from side to side. I have a set of coils I picked up for my project truck, so I may trying throwing those on seeing what happens.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I still don't have it registered (got sick and then the holiday) but since I have insurance on it again and I've needed a truck for some things I've been driving it.

It likes starting in cold weather more than warm weather, kind of interesting. Once we get the plates on I'll install the WBO2 and start building the VE table.

I'm amazed at how much stuff works, LOL. Wipers work, heater will roast you out, and the boy swapped the radio from the donor truck a while back and it works. I think this summer we'll figure out how to get AC working and then I guess that's about everything you need for a TX truck.
 
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