Level Kit Done Right

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Fast_Z71

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Good afternoon. I have been searching this forum for info on a proper level/lift kit maybe 2-2.5 inches. I am thinking about buying a set of Proryde or Readylift torsion keys both come with shock extenders, a set of either Skyjacker or RC ucas, and a 1.5 or 2.0 in block. I'm aware that increasing the tension on the torsion bars will decrease the ride quality but I don't mind that and there is a potential for cv axle wear. I don't want to lift the truck a full 4-6inches as it is a daily driver. My plan is to do a level lift the right way and run 295/70/18 tires on a stock GMT900 z71 18in wheel. Do not tell me about a body lift I am not interested in that set up.
 

Hipster

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I'm surprised a search didn't reveal anything. There are several threads on this site already about the control arm/crank kits and the problems that arise from trying to do it that way. Namely getting a proper alignment.

You're already aware of some of the downsides going this direction so you've evidently researched it elsewhere and maybe didn't like the answers.

Going with a bodylift or to a 4" kit instead are the common answers.
 
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351FUN

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You're gonna want to go higher than 2" to run a 34" tire...

Is this year dependent? 33's clear fine at stock height on my blazer so I can't see 2" not being enough, but I don't know if that carries over to the pickups.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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Raising z-height will not necessarily decrease ride quality. The shock absorber is responsible for that duty. By extending the shock to it's limits, it enters the Control Zone of the shock, thus garnering you a harsh ride. Todays leveling kits are equipped with shock extensions for that reason. Though most owners crank to the top end or the range, again running into the control zone...

Be aware that cranking the bars up will reduce down travel, and puts the ball joints at less than optimal internal angle.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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The excess tire diameter comes in contact with the rear of the wheelwell at the fender, so you're gonna have a good time clearancing the metal. Up front it comes to cutting the air dam, and likely the ends of the bumper.

My '88 and its 315 75 16 (34.6") rubbed badly. I lost 2" of front bumper, and adjusted the caster as far negative as possible. Then bashed the flange of my fender flat plus another 1/4" and it still rubbed at full compression.

And it gets worse if you have and kind of zero to negative offset wheels... FYI
 

351FUN

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And it gets worse if you have and kind of zero to negative offset wheels... FYI

Wheels make a huge difference. I ran 37x12.5R16.5 on my F250 no problem with the right wheels at stock height, but with stock wheels it rubbed like crazy.
 

Fast_Z71

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Great replies! The ball join problem I have consulted with some off-roader buddies of mine they suggested aftermarket control arms which I was planning on doing any way. The 4 in lift is probably the way to go, but it is a DD after all. I am aware with a 2-2.5 lift, that the tires I’m looking at going with may not fit. However, my truck already sits up pretty high from the factory I’m sitting currently at 37in in the back and 37.5 in the front stock. Factory wheels can allow you to fit way bigger tires than you would with offset wheels.
 

alignman88

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Great replies! The ball join problem I have consulted with some off-roader buddies of mine they suggested aftermarket control arms which I was planning on doing any way. The 4 in lift is probably the way to go, but it is a DD after all. I am aware with a 2-2.5 lift, that the tires I’m looking at going with may not fit. However, my truck already sits up pretty high from the factory I’m sitting currently at 37in in the back and 37.5 in the front stock. Factory wheels can allow you to fit way bigger tires than you would with offset wheels.I put many hard miles on my 2010, 2014, and 2016 K2500’s 60-75,000 miles per year pulling in closed trailer 80% of the time and weighing 14,550lbs total weight. As soon as got each truck home from dealer new I put cheap Zone Off-road torsion bar keys and shock extenders to only level it not maxed out. Control arms , axles, tie rods were angled more, but trucks had zero bump steer issues. With the level kit I think the trucks don’t roll over on the nose as bad in corners so it’s a huge improvement. Every truck got traded about 125-150k miles of HARD driving and zero front end parts issues. Use a small porta power to push the wheel well opening back at bottom of front fender for clearance. I ran a big Michelin AT4 on 20x9’s I think we’re 32.5-33” tall. Buy the front level kit and go forward man. I’ve been in steering suspension and alignment business over 20 years and the lack of hard part issues old me. My daily now has 4” Rough Country lift and 35’s. Long day if under 6ft.tall
 
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