LED light problem

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Awest623

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That's weird. Never heard of that before. I'd break out the multimeter and start checking wiring.

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delta_p

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So here is what I've found. The problem goes away if I take the side marker light bulb out. WTH?? Thoughts Anybody???

That's because in a normal situation with bulbs the power to the park bulbs also goes to the marker light. The marker gets its ground through the turn bulbs, but the voltage drop across the markers is such that there isn't much left to light the turn bulbs. That's why the markers oscillate out of phase with the turns in normal turnsignal and in phase with the turns when hazards.

When you took out the markers, the power only went to the park LED's.

When you added LED's you removed this resistor paths to ground (the bulbs) through the markers. That's why people put in resistors, to equal out the loads and paths to ground.
 

FATBAK

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That's because in a normal situation with bulbs the power to the park bulbs also goes to the marker light. The marker gets its ground through the turn bulbs, but the voltage drop across the markers is such that there isn't much left to light the turn bulbs. That's why the markers oscillate out of phase with the turns in normal turnsignal and in phase with the turns when hazards.

When you took out the markers, the power only went to the park LED's.

When you added LED's you removed this resistor paths to ground (the bulbs) through the markers. That's why people put in resistors, to equal out the loads and paths to ground.

I have the resistors. Should I put them on the TS side or PARK light side? Do I need them on all four bulbs?
 

delta_p

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They only go across the turn signal wiring, so they only power and heat when the signal flashes. And they need to mounted to metal base like the rad support, they get hot.

I put a 6 ohm 50W across each turn signal bulb wiring. Theoretically, a 2357 bulb is 2.2amps at 12.8 volts. if you calculate an equivalent resistance it's 5.7 ohms ~ 6 ohms. 2.2 amps at 12.8 volts is 28 watts so a 50 watt resistor was used.

Two six ohm resistors in parallel (which this configuration is) is 3 ohms. You could try a single 3 ohm resistor across one bulb on each side of the truck but the amp draw at 12.8 volts would be 4.4 amps. This is 56 watts so a 100 watt resistor would be in order. Plus, any wiring you add would have to take this (the 6 ohm too). I don't suggest doing it this way.
 

thegawd

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I bought switchback harnesses with built in resistors that were plug and play. I did this because if a bulb burnt out I could quickly put a regular bulb in instead. Mine work absolutely perfect.... I used a harness like this one..... normally I roll my own but not here. Sometimes i buy a harness just to get the components and then take it apart and put it back together, they seemed well done so I didnt touch them.

Al

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Error-Free-...244154?hash=item2121b2267a:g:JV8AAOSwI9FdlNYe
 

thegawd

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Anyone in Canada (ideally Ontario) know the legalities of replacing the stock amber park/ts bulbs with white LEDs?

It's not legal. They need to be amber otherwise they will blend in with the headlights and wont be seen. The laws are available if you take the time to go through the full rules of the highway traffic act. I have. For example, you only need one license plate light but if you have 2 and one is burnt out, well your breaking the law. I removed the right side from the harness and replaced it with a 7 way trailer plug. I have had a cop stop and take a look at that during a random stop, he laughed about how I did it.

Anyways I'm not going digging for those laws.

Take care

Al
 
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thegawd

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One harness for each bulb, so 2. And they do indeed need to be mounted to metal like the rad support.

Just to be clear I did not use this seller but the harness I bought looks identical to those. Actually I have an extra set and bulbs in a bag of tricks that I have on standby....

Al

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