Last one HVAC box repair #3

[kenh]

The first photo is the completed job so far. I have a couple fillers I mix with my epoxy as it is quite thin in viscosity. I add fumed silica as a thickener and cotton flox as a strength adder. I used that mixture around the edges to fill in gaps ans also in the small hole as I had enough left over to do that instead of using the cloth. I then just put a piece of cloth over the top.

We aren't quite done yet!

After this cures then you can remove the paper on the outside and add one or two more layers on the INSIDE over your patch. I don't like to do it all in one shot as IMO do as little as possible to get your shape then go back and finish it out. The less you do the first round the less chance of messing something up. At this point I would finish the outside by sanding and filling in any left over holes. I plan on painting mine a semi gloss black to match as well as I can .

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[kenh]

Peeled the form off this morning and this is what I have. I had a couple spots that didn't have a lit of resin but that was expected. Those will be filled, sanded and painted. Basically treat it like you would any bodywork. FYI. If you use polyester resin then any body putty will work for the final finish work. If you use epoxy then use epoxy base products. Polyester does not bond well to epoxy.

Ken

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[thegawd]

I have to do the same repair in my burb. the duct tape is falling off and I'm loosing pressure. LMAO

 

[kenh]

Ready to go back in. Painted with wheel paint. I was looking for a semi gloss trim paint but couldn't find anything local so wound up with this. I think I'll give the air diffuser a quick paint job so it matches this cover. Turned out better than I hoped for. NOT perfect, but good enough.

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[kenh]

Well the cover is back in place but it was a battle. If you do this, make sure the cover is in place on all sides before you put the screws in. I wound up starting on the trans hump side and working out. There is one screw on the back side against the firewall that is a real b-witch. Can't see it and can barely feel it. The heat insulation is kind of in the way to get a strait shot. You can push it back but then your hand is in the way to get the screw in. Anyway it's all back together. Waiting on my HVAC motor resistor. That will be here on Monday. Then it will be good as new.... well almost. haha

Ken

 

[skylark]

Well the cover is back in place but it was a battle. If you do this, make sure the cover is in place on all sides before you put the screws in. I wound up starting on the trans hump side and working out. There is one screw on the back side against the firewall that is a real b-witch. Can't see it and can barely feel it. The heat insulation is kind of in the way to get a strait shot. You can push it back but then your hand is in the way to get the screw in. Anyway it's all back together. Waiting on my HVAC motor resistor. That will be here on Monday. Then it will be good as new.... well almost. haha

Ken

Ahh, you mean the extra screw that GM doesn't expect us to put back in.

 

[F4U-1A]

I have to do the same repair in my burb. the duct tape is falling off and I'm loosing pressure. LMAO

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[kenh]

Ahh, you mean the extra screw that GM doesn't expect us to put back in.

YES! That thought crossed my mind. But I think it's very important to put it back as the heater core is supported by the cover. That screw is located exactly where the core is, so would leave the core unsupported on that side.

Ken

 

[skylark]

YES! That thought crossed my mind. But I think it's very important to put it back as the heater core is supported by the cover. That screw is located exactly where the core is, so would leave the core unsupported on that side.

Ken

Consider me the long term tester on about half a dozen or so that I've done!