L29 Distributor Accel #59132---Tight Fit!

[RedBurb]

I installed a new Accel Distributor PN 59132 in my L29 a few months ago. It actually works BUT it sure has a very narrow and tight installation window. There's literally only 1 gear tooth that works but even this one tooth provides a marginal fit at best. Here's what I mean ----If the dizzy is stabbed into the cam on one side of the tooth the dizzy's 3-pin electrical connector ends up rubbing hard against the fuel pressure regulator. If on the otherhand the dizzy is stabbed into the cam on the other side of this same tooth the dizzy's cap plug wire #8 winds up being smashed up against the passenger's side upper intake plenum. Talk about being stuck between a rock and a hard spot!

Has anyone experienced the same issue with this Accel #59132 dizzy on a L29?

I've thought about removing the dizzy's drive gear, rotating it 180 degrees, and reinstalling it. I believe this change would effectively phase the rotor 1/2 tooth forward (13.84 degrees) and thereby afford a "wider/different" installation window.

Thoughts?

Here are some pics:

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[MILLCMACK]

Curious about this as well. After throwing a bunch of money at the wall for dash command software (140$ all together, if you need software go elsewhere- super unhelpful folks there) I was able to get my 7.4l distributor set correctly and my #8 is jammed up against the plenum. Not sure what brand dizzy is down there, “just” did the cap and rotor on mine.

 

[RedBurb]

Curious about this as well. After throwing a bunch of money at the wall for dash command software (140$ all together, if you need software go elsewhere- super unhelpful folks there) I was able to get my 7.4l distributor set correctly and my #8 is jammed up against the plenum. Not sure what brand dizzy is down there, “just” did the cap and rotor on mine.

A few months ago after replacing the dizzy (with the Accel) I also bought Dash Command thinking it could clear Cam Retard code 0345. I also found out the DC software is a POS and there is zero support behind it. I was finally able to clear the code by forcing the dizzy up hard against the fuel regulator.

I removed the dizzy this weekend while replacing the fuel injectors on the engine. I figured now it's a good time to move the dizzy back "one tooth" (turn the rotor CCW one tooth) and create a new "adjustment window" that will allow me to properly adjust the dizzy (back it off the fuel regulator and have enough room to acheive the spec of being within the +- 2 degree Cam offset). But as I described above now it turns out the dizzy's cap plug #8 is slammed hard against the passenger side upper plenum instead (the spark wire boot won't even slide onto the cap). Interesting to hear you are having a similar issue.

Hopefully someone else chimes in here and sheds light on this fitment issue. Maybe this tight fitment is standard--hard to believe but who knows?

Unless I hear otherwise I'm going to proceed with removing the dizzy's gear and clocking it 180 degrees. I'll post you with the results.

 

[MILLCMACK]

A few months ago after replacing the dizzy (with the Accel) I also bought Dash Command thinking it could clear Cam Retard code 0345. I also found out the DC software is a POS and there is zero support behind it. I was finally able to clear the code by forcing the dizzy up hard against the fuel regulator.

I removed the dizzy this weekend while replacing the fuel injectors on the engine. I figured now it's a good time to move the dizzy back "one tooth" (turn the rotor CCW one tooth) and create a new "adjustment window" that will allow me to properly adjust the dizzy (back it off the fuel regulator and have enough room to acheive the spec of being within the +- 2 degree Cam offset). But as I described above now it turns out the dizzy's cap plug #8 is slammed hard against the passenger side upper plenum instead (the spark wire boot won't even slide onto the cap). Interesting to hear you are having a similar issue.

Hopefully someone else chimes in here and sheds light on this fitment issue. Maybe this tight fitment is standard--hard to believe but who knows?

Unless I hear otherwise I'm going to proceed with removing the dizzy's gear and clocking it 180 degrees. I'll post you with the results.

Yes I had to leave that boot connected, no way to get it on afterwards. I’ll be looking to see what other have to say as well

 

[Papablunt]

Looks like the same position my ended up at. That's just "how it be" on the L29. My spark plug wire is slammed against the upper IM in order to achieve 2.1 CMP Retard.
This was on my OEM and Summit distributor. I can't speak to the specifics of the Accel unit, but doubt it differs.

 

[RedBurb]

Looks like the same position my ended up at. That's just "how it be" on the L29. My spark plug wire is slammed against the upper IM in order to achieve 2.1 CMP Retard.
This was on my OEM and Summit distributor. I can't speak to the specifics of the Accel unit, but doubt it differs.

I've got some very good news boys!

I was able to clock the rotor 1/2 tooth CCW and this rotation created a new dizzy adjustment window. So its not "how it be" on the L29 after all!

Here's how I did it:

1. I took a close look at the dowel pin that secures the dizzy gear onto the input shaft. One end of the dowel pin was centered between two gear teeth (the end with the alignment hole on the shaft) whereas on the other end of the dowel pin was aligned on one gear tooth (see pics).

2. I knocked out the dowel pin with a punch, rotated the gear 180 degrees, placed the gear back on the shaft, and drove the dowel pin back into place. This effectively moved the rotor CCW by 1/2 gear tooth.

The rotor now aligns perfectly with the "8" cylinder marking on the housing when the engine is at TDC AND most importantly the dizzy cap fits comfortably with plenty of space between the fuel pressure regulator and the passenger's side upper intake manifold.

Mission accomplished!

Let me know if you have any questions.

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[RedBurb]

I've read many accounts of people believing their new distributor was incorrectly assembled by the factory and sent them back. I wonder how many of these folks tried this technique of removing the dizzy's gear, turing it 180 degrees, and putting it back on? Maybe I just got lucky but this definitely solved my tight fit problem.

 

[RedBurb]

Yes I had to leave that boot connected, no way to get it on afterwards. I’ll be looking to see what other have to say as well

Flagging you with my finding above.

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[Supercharged111]

A worn distributor gear can also make it impossible to get a good CMPRET setting.

 

[MILLCMACK]

Flagging you with my finding above.

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Ok cool - thank you for giving it a go, I did order a new body after so much worn gear reading I figured I might as well @185 with no slips from it being replaced yet. Luckily both owners (last guy only had for a few months before ending up in jail I assume) were **** about receipts and paper work so I have most records (including smog slips) back to a brake job at 60k.