L29 0411 Swap - Struggling with crank relearn and P0300

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Mangonesailor

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Ok so I was 180 off in all my screwing around. Got that fixed and we are good. But I’m having trouble getting the cmp correct. On what seems like the “correct” tooth I can only get it to 5* before it hits the intake. Moving one tooth back put it at like -13*. I need to maybe test that again but I’m fighting other issues with the truck (heh).

Saw somewhere else someone had a similar issue and had to remove the distributor gear from the shaft and rotate it 180* and they were able to get it timed…

I don’t want to put the stock one back in but maybe I should…
That is exactly what you have to do, that's the discovery I made when putting a new dizzy in mine as well
 

Supercharged111

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Ok so I was 180 off in all my screwing around. Got that fixed and we are good. But I’m having trouble getting the cmp correct. On what seems like the “correct” tooth I can only get it to 5* before it hits the intake. Moving one tooth back put it at like -13*. I need to maybe test that again but I’m fighting other issues with the truck (heh).

Saw somewhere else someone had a similar issue and had to remove the distributor gear from the shaft and rotate it 180* and they were able to get it timed…

I don’t want to put the stock one back in but maybe I should…

The only tools that can help you are: rotate the distributor gear, replace the gear if worn (and possibly get stuck rotating it after you get it all together), and replace timing chain.
 

Spareparts

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When i changes the gear on mine i had to reuse the old roll pin. Still fit tight and should not be a problem.
 

Piratehunter

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There is a dimple on one side of the dizzy gear above the pin. It is supposed to be positioned with the rotor contact. That said, offshore mass production tolerances are not so predictable, as many have found rotating 180 solves it.
The roll pin can be reused if it feels tight and peening the ends should keep it there.
There is a lot of casting flashing on the back of the upper plenum that restricts dizzy rotation and can buy you that half tooth off cmp error, if you carefully remove it with a grinder at the points were the 1 & 8 dizzy/plug wire terminals are limiting the rotation. Don’t go too nuts on the #1 side as there is a plenum bolt under it. On the #8 side there is less concern smoothing that flashing down.
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Pro439

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Have any of you used a crank trigger with the GM sensor? I have a 383 I’m still waiting for it to show up to install it with the 411 and repin the wiring harness as I got both diagrams for the stock ECM and the 411. I don’t see any problems repinning connectors. Just not sure about the crank trigger. Guess I’ll find out
 

Supercharged111

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Crank trigger? As in crankshaft position sensor? If so, what's so special about it that it concerns you?
 

eran tomer

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Yeah, there are a few. The reason you are getting the range code is because depending on year, you either need to run wires to the 0411 from the PRNDL switch or you need to directly ground the correct wires to get it to see it in park or neutral.
i want to do the same on my 95. I found a wire that has voltage when in park (the green wire on center bottom of c200), but can't find anything for neutral. the plug with 4 wires on the tranny doesn't have voltage although the position indicator in the instruments is working.
 

BeXtreme

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i want to do the same on my 95. I found a wire that has voltage when in park (the green wire on center bottom of c200), but can't find anything for neutral. the plug with 4 wires on the tranny doesn't have voltage although the position indicator in the instruments is working.
The PRNDL doesn't provide voltage. The PCM is looking for an active ground. A 95 would have the PRNDL switch running to the cluster, but not the PCM so you will need to splice something in to those existing wires to get the active ground signals to the 0411 if you want them there.
 
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