K3500 hub bolt installation

[missouritig]

Hello

Having some difficulty getting my hub bolts completely seated into my new 4wd hub bearing assembly & rotor

I have a punch and hammer but it is only strong enough to get it to about 1-2mm from full seat.

I thought about using the two nut method to back it in like i did my manifold bolts but im wondering if that may deform or mar the hub assembly surface too much.

I might try freezing the bolts and then punch them in, but interested in any other budget tips since ive got to wait a
Bit before having another go at it.

Most DIY topics discuss the 4wd half ton 6-bolt hubs which is different.

Thanks!

2000 k3500 rclb 5.7

 

[missouritig]

Another dumb question, is this the right Dorman part for replacement wheel studs for stock k3500 srw?
Dorman 610-332.1

 

[454cid]

I usually get them started and then pull them through. I use a lug nut on top of a couple of greased washers. I end up ruining a couple of lug nuts because it destroys the taper. It would be better to buy a few regular nuts of the correct size.

Even doing that they won't all seat quite all the way, but it's close enough. They'll fully seat when the rims gets put back on and the wheel gets torqued for real. Just check it a couple of times.

Make sure you get the mating surfaces perfectly clean when putting the rotor on the hub. If anything gets stuck in between you'll have excessive run out. I had to pull the driver's side apart again.

 

[454cid]

Another dumb question, is this the right Dorman part for replacement wheel studs for stock k3500 srw?
Dorman 610-332.1

Dorman's catalog says yes. I've only used OEM, and studs that came with my Timken hubs.

Rockauto has 610-332 listed. Maybe the .1 signifies one in the package? I see they are listed as X1 or X10.

 

[missouritig]

Sounds good thanks!

 

[Schurkey]

When it was me, I used a 20-ton press to push the lug studs in. (New rotor, used hub. New hub had incorrect ABS cable.)

Took WAY more effort than I was expecting to cram 'em in place.

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Stood the rotor/hub on three deep impact sockets, pressed the lug studs in using another impact socket as a spacer. Moved the sockets around the eight studs as needed to get 'em shoved in.

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When I was done, I checked rotor indicated run-out. Within about a thousandth.

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[missouritig]

To follow up on this, I was able to get the hub bolts seated using an air impact and used a washer , spacer nut, and lug nut to pull them in tight. I put a ton of grease between the washer and hub face and that seemed to help prevent any marring of the surface.

The impact was kind of weak until I realized my power setting was dialed back.

 

[xXxPARAGONxXx]

They do make a nice tool for this now. The tool trucks offer it, but it's basically the same as Lisle 22800.

 

[Schurkey]

How would you position that tool to press in lug-studs on an 8-lug hub/rotor assembly?

 

[Papablunt]

How would you position that tool to press in lug-studs on an 8-lug hub/rotor assembly?

I deleted my post because it's not applicable. The title even says K3500, ha. The tool I recommend (ball joint separator) will only work for hub studs, and not for a hub/rotor assembly due to the jaws being so short.