K2500 Odd Handling Feel

[L29Sub]

After hijacking another thread (apologies), thought I'd ask here about a new issue.
I tow a 11k lb toy hauler with a 1200 lb max tongue weight. Pulls OK, and still does. Been driving this '99, L29 K2500, 489/5 spd, since 2014. But recently when no trailer, the rear end feels as if it hangs out to either side for a moment any time steering input is added...such as avoiding water or pothole. Good tires 265/75x 16 on stock wheels. Bushings look OK in both shackles and spring (have new bushings but not yet installed). Tires with 70 to 80lbs. Wheels tight, nothing looks like a problem, but something is. Front end is tight. Cannot see anything amiss. Truck has 160k miles. Never wrecked. Also never drove great, but this swinging ass feel is new. Are the rear spring anti squeaks located correctly? Both sides are the same.
Bought prothane bushings, but sez to remove old bushing sleeves, but the new bushings fit the inside ID of the old sleeves. OEM outside bush 1.68". Prothane OD 1.56". Inside old sleeve, 1.55. '99 year model should be the same as older K2500? It don't seem so. I also have new Moog stock bushings and shackles that are correct. Wanted the poly bushings if I can find them in correct size...or leave the sleeve?
This rear end sway is not apparent when the trailer and trunions are attached. Seems to point to the rear suspension?
Any ideas?

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[Hipster]

How did you check this out and what all did you check? A lot of problems are hard to spot with the vehicle on it's weight on the tires. You need the weight off the suspension. Tie rods and ball joints can get "set" in the wore out position just rolling one in the shop so a little tap can reveal the slop. With weight off you can get a pry bar in between bushings and mounts and push/pull on the control arm bushings, front eye bushings, etc. Sloppy ball joints will make one wander all over. Checked steering box slop and rag joint?

Also, the heads can rust off the leaf pack center pins and allow the rear to walk on the springs.

Weight can settle one down, but I don't think your jerking it around a puddle pulling 11k for it really to be a comparison.

 

[ZRoe]

A little bit of a thread jack here and some advice...
First of all my curiousity is peaked when you say 5 speed, then I see a picture of a burban. Did you swap it?

For the bushings, head over to offroad design (http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/greasebushings.htm) and get there greasable rear leaf spring bushings. You have to push the old sleeve out and install them in the open leaf "hole." I just installed them in my 1997 k2500 burban but I have a 4l80e behind my big block

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[L29Sub]

Just grabbed a couple pics of a very dirty truck...I converted using a 1995 k1500 donor. Pretty much everthing bolts in. And, the 4x4 shaft splines match the k2500 shafts. Be advised that the Sub's electronics require major "alterations"...
Regarding the "check" for slop. I jacked the truck up and both took weight off and checked, and jacked up with weight on suspension. Used a 4' prybar and nothing moves. I have the variable steering deleted with GM kit. It drove OK prior, noticed this recently. Steering box and rag are tight. It feels like rear moving. Plan-replace rear bushings and shackles. Check springs while off. At least the rear is a cheap rule out.
Will post anything interesting.
Thanks for the link. Like to get it right while in there.
I notice a jeep steering shaft conversion, but don't think it will work on '99?
I'm towing a Vengeance Rogue 31V travel trailer.

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[L29Sub]

The GU38006 kit seems correct.
Will double check and get going.
Thanks.

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[L29Sub]

Stupid question. I have all parts (that I'm aware of?) To rebush the springs and shackles.
OK to cut the sleeves out with a die grinder? Or collapse them and beat them out? Is there any reason to separate the leaves if center and all bolts look good? I've got a golf cart project that's sucking up my time...but gotta use the truck and cart in two weeks.
Other ideas welcomed!
For S&Gs....

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[ZRoe]

I used ball joint press to push the old rubber bushing centers out. Then I cut one slit in the steel sleeve so I could more easily collapse it. I used a hacksaw for better control (I don't trust myself with a die grinder in such a tight space...)

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[L29Sub]

As with all things k2500, I'm lost on stupid stuff. Installing the rear spring bushings this weekend. Want to replace the rag joint while at it. Any ideas re part numbers of the joint, or interchange, or diameter? I find plenty discs, but all say will not fit my Sub. This is common with Suburbans. Need the truck next week and want to avoid taking apart without a line on replacement parts. It's driveable but not fun to fight.
I'm under the assumption that '88-'98 (and ******* '99 K2500s) are the same? I work nights and try to sort this crap out. Don't always work out.
Any advice appreciated. Thanks

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[ZRoe]

Couldn't find the rag joint separate on RockAuto but the lower steering shaft is the same from 95 and up.

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[L29Sub]

Thanks. That's a possibility.
Found a Flaming River FR1476DD (?) that seems to be a replacement for the rag joint. My concern now is what's up with the airbag vs solid shafts?
The joints interchange over a wide year model range. The "96-'99 burbs are deleted. Yet the fit is the same. 3/4" 30 spline, and 1" DD steering shaft.