K2500 crew cab...

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b454rat

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Were you enclosed or open deck with that weight? I'm enclosed and here in CO, the dually with no blower would downshift way more than the 1500 with blower with around 9000# of enclosed trailer, 24'.

I was towing a 90 RCSB, had 2 454s in the bed, set of 1 ton axles, torches, welder, n who knows what else, it was when I got out of the military late 01 n don't remember lol. I lived in CO with that truck for a short stint, and COULD EASILY tell it wasn't the same power as back in NYS. Felt like power was down 20-30% if not more.
 

Supercharged111

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I was towing a 90 RCSB, had 2 454s in the bed, set of 1 ton axles, torches, welder, n who knows what else, it was when I got out of the military late 01 n don't remember lol. I lived in CO with that truck for a short stint, and COULD EASILY tell it wasn't the same power as back in NYS. Felt like power was down 20-30% if not more.

You lose about 20% at 6000'. I should clarify though that stock for stock mod for mod the 454 is a vastly superior towing mill. Unless it's TBI, I hear those were pretty bad. A cared for 454 will run for many miles. Thing is, most get beat on as they come in the heavy duty trucks. Mine has 150k on it and, with the new crank venting, hardly uses any oil.
 

stutaeng

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They are good trucks. I have a K3500 5.7 CCLB SRW with 4.10s. I haven't towed with it, but have hauled a lot of heavy loads to the payload capacity. Does fine. The 7.4 would obviously do better.

Here's the towing capacity for 7.4 K2500 from my owner's manual to give you some idea.

My biggest disappointment on these generation trucks are the door hinges. They stink! Other issues are minor.

Also, I think 12 mpg is more realistic.

Is the one you are looking at a 8' or 6.5' bed? Either one will HUGE compared to the 1500 CC 5.5' mostly everyone is driving nowadays. The long bed is not easy to maneuver in parking garages, but would have the edge for towing.

That truck should have hydroboost brakes and the valve booster seem to all seep some P.S. fluid. Easy fix. Also, the 7.4 gave you a 14 bolt full-floater rear end.

Is this going to be a daily driver?

As far as newer truck? We'll, that's a tricky question. It all depends on condition and maintenance. There are way too many late model trucks beat to hell with no maintenance whatsoever.

Going to the next generation trucks, the frames are a bit stronger (HD models,) engines offer a bit more power and towing improved accordingly. Transmission and axles are the same for the most part.

Have you looked at the 2500 suburbans? They may fit you bill if you need more seats. I own 2 of them and I'm really liking them. Both of mine have the 6.0 with 4.10s.

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454cid

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You wont get 15mpg with the 454 unless maybe 2wd with taller gears. When my truck was newish I got 12.6 regularly on the highway running empty. Maybe a Blackbear tune could help?
 

dirtautoguy

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Gear wise I’d probably be looking at 3.73 or 4.10. I’m not sure I’d like 410 but it would primarily be used for camping, hunting spare vehicle, things of that nature. We have a 19 Jeep Cherokee for going on long trips. I plan on keeping the k1500, it has a new motor and trans and already has 266000 miles so I don’t feel bad about putting miles on it.

The other thing I like
About a older vehicle is cost of registration and insurance should be lower.
 

stutaeng

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Gear wise I’d probably be looking at 3.73 or 4.10. I’m not sure I’d like 410 but it would primarily be used for camping, hunting spare vehicle, things of that nature. We have a 19 Jeep Cherokee for going on long trips. I plan on keeping the k1500, it has a new motor and trans and already has 266000 miles so I don’t feel bad about putting miles on it.

The other thing I like
About a older vehicle is cost of registration and insurance should be lower.

The 2500 most likely has a 3.73 (3.73 was standard with 4.10 being optional, i.e. special order from factory). 3500s (SRW and DRW) had 4.10s standard with 4.56 being special order. I'm talking about the 96-00 models only.

I've never driven a truck with 3.73, but I'd vote 4.10s if I had the option. Acceleration while towing would be slightly better and you are around 2,400 +/- RPM at 75 MPH, so closer to the "peak" numbers for HP and TQ: https://www.automobile-catalog.com/curve/1999/1205045/chevrolet_suburban_c2500_7_4l_v-8_sfi.html

Ditto for the 5.7: https://www.gearvendors.com/cghptorque.html
 

Carlaisle

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It will pull about anything you can hook up to it. 15MPG is optimistic except when going downhill at idle. The stock injectors are junk and if they are original you should plan to replace them. Intake gaskets aren't typically a problem with this engine. The Blackbear tune another poster mentioned is the easiest and best bang for your buck performance mod you can do. Second best is the exhaust system. Well, a Whipple would be better, but those are spendy and difficult to source. Prices are very local and dependent on condition, so I can't comment on that. I could pay someone else to fix literally everything I want improved on my old truck and still have huge wads of cash left over vs. buying a newer one. The door hinge pins are almost guaranteed to need replaced at that mileage. Don't put that off. You don't mention if it's a long or short bed. That long bed crew cab is LONG and not convenient to park or pilot in cramped quarters. Take it for a drive, look/listen, and let us know what you think.
 
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