K1500 possible Steering box issue?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

1990Z71Swede

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 20, 2022
Messages
253
Reaction score
360
Location
Sweden
Hello, Gentlemen.
This is my first post, it became longer than I wanted but I´m trying to cram every little bit of info in it at once, to cover all bases.

So I bought this 1990 Z71 Sportside 1500 truck for my Daughter, and when we test drove it we noticed the steering was wonky and did not return to straight by itself.
But we liked the thing and bought it anyway, realizing worst case it needs a new steering box, best case it is just an adjustment issue, or a couple of steering components needing replacement, so no biggie.

So when we got it home, I loosened the locknut on top of the steering box to check the preload and to my surprise I find it backed out quite a bit, in fact I can only turn it about 1/4 turn counterclockwise before it appears to be against a stop. I thought that screw could be removed all together but I guess it is installed from the inside and has some kind of head on it?

Now before I start messing with it I thought I would ask here for guidance. As it is now we can drive the thing but it needs some attention to stay on the road :)

The symptoms are like this:
No weird sounds from pump or box, steering effort when parking is I suppose normal, AND when doing this the steering wheel is actually returning as normal ACCEPT for the last Half turn, where it gets tight.

Also, sometimes the last quarter turn out to full lock when stationary get´s really hard, as in loss of power steering assist. The truck has obnoxious 275x55/20 wheels which may have something to do with that, but this made me suspect that a steering component other than the steering box itself might be at fault, maybe both? I did get the feeling that if I force it to full lock and back again I can get to full lock with power assist, but then if go the other direction, it has the same symptoms in that direction. Rolling ever so slowly backwards or forwards it is working fine, no loss of power assist at full lock in any direction.

The annoying part is driving in a straight line. it needs constant direction adjustments, does not return to zero/straight by itself and you tend to overcorrect because of the too tight feeling combined with some sloppiness in the first inch or so of steering wheel travel(some of that is probably the ragjoint) but it feels like the steering box both is too tight AND have some play in it at the same time... weird.

So far I´ve ruled out: (sort of)
Upper ball joints, greased them, that made absolutely zero difference.
Lower Right is New, Not replaced by me though so not 100% sure that I can rule that one out, new parts can fail/be faulty too.
Idler arm, greased it and it seems OK.
Tie rods, both sides. Clearly there has been some troubleshooting made by a Previous Owner, as the boots are bulging with grease. :) Anyway I can wiggle them by hand and they are moving freely and there´s no binding or sticking or sloppiness to them.
Steering column, I can feel the sponginess of the rag joint :) so the steering column shaft is moving freely.

That leaves (I think) the Steering box and LH lower ball joint which is still riveted and has 170 000 original miles on it, but in my experience they get sloppy and loose when they wear out, not binding to the point where it makes at difference in steering feel.

So what do you guys think, is there steering boxes where adjustment on the set screw is backwards or is it just backed out almost all the way by the previous owner to "fix" a badly hurt steering box?

Should I just get a used but tested steering box from a junkyard, because with the symptoms I have the steering box is clearly fecked anyway and messing with it will only make it worse and possibly make the truck undriveable?

I live in Sweden so parts availability is good but not nearly as good as in the US. (I normally order stuff from Rock auto, but not sure if a Steering box with shipping cost is wort doing, and returning it if it does not work is definitely not going to happen)

Here it is, hate the wheels but if i black out or remove the shiny and red things they will work.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
10,968
Reaction score
13,746
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
Perhaps a moderator will move this out of "Engine" and into "Stock Suspension + Bolt On Kits".




There are TWO adjustments for the steering box, but nobody ever tries the first one, before jumping right into messing with the second one. The PS pump may have low pressure; but almost no one has the tools to verify.

Failed rag-joints are epidemic. Virtually guaranteed that yours is shot. Probably accounts for the wandering and constant-corrections needed. GM has a steering shaft that eliminates the rag joint in favor of a U-joint. Very recommended. They've been "scarce" due to "supply chain disruption" but supposedly not "discontinued". You'd also need the longer front bolt to go with it. There's photos and part numbers on another "sticky" thread on this site. My post there is:
www.gmt400.com/threads/xj-steering-shaft-upgrade-88-94-trucks-95-instructions-on-page-31.12087/page-55#post-1228938


I'd have the alignment and suspension/steering checked. Greasing joints doesn't make them good again when they're worn-out.

The oversized tires may not be helping; same with the wheels which may/may not have correct offset/backspacing.
 

east302

I'm Awesome
Joined
Oct 4, 2013
Messages
3,413
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Jackson, MS
The factory service manuals can be downloaded here for free:


There should be a section describing the gearbox adjustment that @Schurkey mentioned.

If it were me, I would either try your hand at rebuilding your existing one (or finding a donor from a salvage yard and doing the same) before buying a remanufactured one as they have unusually high quality control issues. Redhead and Bluetop brands are two exceptions and, usually, safer choices.

Nice looking truck, by the way. For what it’s worth, my teenage son would love the wheels. :)
 

1990Z71Swede

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 20, 2022
Messages
253
Reaction score
360
Location
Sweden
As it turns out my daughter does not hate the wheels either :) but them shiny things has to go...

As soon as I'have ruled everything else out I'm going to do what you suggested.

Will try disconnecting the drag link at the steering box this weekend.

Thanks for pointing me in the directions of thoose manuals. They will come in handy right away. We were towing a trailer earlier and now, no running lights or dash illumination, gotta love owning old classics :)

Edit: The service manual for the CK Steering box clearly states that the preload screw has a stop when turned out, which is close to where my box is adjusted now, so I' m going to give the preload procedure a try before doing anything else. I don't think its going to fix it but its a 5 minute job so...
 
Last edited:

GrimsterGMC

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2021
Messages
1,147
Reaction score
3,721
Location
New Zealand
Check your wires at the trailer harness plug. A short there can sometimes blow fuses associated with your instrument and running lights.
Happened to me, I pinched the number plate light wire and kept blowing the fuse that handles all of the marker lights etc. Hard to trace a short when that one fuse supplies so many different lights etc.
 

1990Z71Swede

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 20, 2022
Messages
253
Reaction score
360
Location
Sweden
I'm thinking its the light switch, the fuse is ok and when I tried troubleshooting, there was nothing to troubleshoot because it was "working" again (and I dont think the running/prk lights have a circuit breaker in the switch, just the headlight circuit) It turns out that in GM's newer ending quest to save a buck, these trucks did not get a relay for the lights. So I'm going to do that and a new switch and maybe figure out how to give it DRL as the Canadian trucks apparently have.
 
Last edited:

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
10,968
Reaction score
13,746
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
I've made a special point of REMOVING the Damned Daytime Running Lights (DDRL) from all of my vehicles.

No idea why someone would want to install them.

I don't know of a single, peer-reviewed study showing that they do any good whatsoever. When I asked GM for evidence, they sent me press-releases not science.

The whole rationale for DDRLs is the appearance of safety, not actual safety. But much of what becomes law in this country and around the world is based on appearances, hunches, and wild-ass guesses, not actual proven benefit.
 

1990Z71Swede

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 20, 2022
Messages
253
Reaction score
360
Location
Sweden
Were I live, as a minimum front lights are required to be on while driving (front park lights will do), even during daytime. If I Install a relay(s) it could just as well be triggered by both light switch and ignition key and its a done deal. If I run the ign. trigger trough the DRL fuse I can disable the DRL´s by removing the fuse if I for whatever reason don't like it. (Simpler, I think, than the GM setup, where it seems the E-brake switch is used to turn the DRL´s of when parked :Insane:)
 
Top