Just wanna tow a 2000lb. Trailer up a hill..

[RawbDidIt]

Love it but pretend your talking to an idiot. I know absolutely less than zero about tuning or computers or wiring or electronics at all. I’m not opposed to the idea I’m looking for the simplest solution possible. But to start with I don’t even know what data logging is I understand what tuning means but I have no idea who to talk to or how to go about doing it.

Black bear. Same thing I'll be doing when I finally get my 383

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[df2x4]

Black bear. Same thing I'll be doing when I finally get my 383

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He has a '92, Black Bear only tunes the '96+ PCMs.

I'm pretty sure there are some people on the Gearhead EFI forums who offer similar mail order tunes for the older TBI PCMs though.

 

[RawbDidIt]

He has a '92, Black Bear only tunes the '96+ PCMs.

I'm pretty sure there are some people on the Gearhead EFI forums who offer similar mail order tunes for the older TBI PCMs though.

Good call, forgot about that...

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[RichLo]

Start simple, A full exhaust will help both engines out ... just sayin

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

There are companies like Black Bear Performance who can develop a tune based on your build. Data logging will fine tune it better. What you do is get some software, like TunerPro RT, go on line with your ECM, and drive around cruising, accelerating lightly and hard, decelerate, etc. Then you can take that log and analyze it to see where your SA (Spark Advance), KR (Knock Retard), AFR (Air Fuel Ratio), etc is during your drive. You can adjust your SA and AFR during WOT (Wide Open Throttle) to get the most out of your engine. You can do things like HLC (Hywy Lean Cruise) to run leaner with higher SA at highway speeds, some folks say they gain a couple MPG doing this. You can learn how to do this by yourself or send your logs to a "tuner" and they can send back the improved .bin file or chip.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

He has a '92, Black Bear only tunes the '96+ PCMs.

My bad. I've never used Black Bear but heard good things about them.

I'm pretty sure there are some people on the Gearhead EFI forums who offer similar mail order tunes for the older TBI PCMs though.

Dave w @ oldschoolEFI on GearheadEFI does TBI tuning as well as others there. Dave helped me get started with my 88 on its 1227747 ECM. He installed a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket in it and I bought some blank chips and a Moates Burn2 so I could flash my own. Then he would email me the .bins and I would flash the chip, put it in the ECU, and go drive around some more. Then I broke down and bought the EBL Flash2 from DynamicEFI.com (RBob). It can learn and adjust the VE (Volumetric Efficiency) table automatically then, with a WBO2 (Wide Band O2 sensor) I can tune at WOT also. Fun Stuff, HTH.

 

[Cheap Heap]

There’s something wrong with your setup. If everything is running smooth, I’d also guess the cat might be clogged.

Have you done a compression test?

When you’re not pulling something, does it run through the gears and pull all the way to redline or is it struggling in the upper rpm range?

My 88’ 350 Auto with almost 200k pulls my 4,000lbs 20ft ski boat 80 mph with no issues. Up hills it kicks down to 3rd and keeps going.

My 93’ 350 auto has 292k on it, also runs great.

The mileage itself isn’t the issue. 250k is probably average for a truck this old. Bottom line is a good running, bone stock 350 auto should have no problem pulling a 2k tailer up any hill at any time.

 

[LVJJJ]

1992 Chevy 4x4, 350 tbi, 700r4, 373 gears... Long story short a very small single axle trailer with a side-by-side on it going to the deer lease at 75 miles an hour by the time I get to the top of the hill I’m doing maybe 50. I don’t care about going fast I just want this thing to have enough torque to be able to pull a small 2000 pound trailer of a hill without being such a turd. Help please.. tips, suggestions, part combinations etc. please and thank all of you very much. A little history the truck has 250,000 miles on the engine and transmission. I know that’s half the problem those two items are being removed and will be replaced with one that has 12,000 miles on them both.

If your '92 is anything like my '94 K1500, then you have a turd. One of the easy first things to do is get rid of the air intake box (if you have one) that reduces the intake diameter to 3" from 4". I replaced it with a piece of 4" aluminum dryer duct. Helped a lot right away. After going to dual exhausts, cutting a second air intake on the other side of the air cleaner, adding a Fastchip, installing my MSD Adjustable TIming Control, getting rid of the K&N air filter, it was better but still a turd towing our 5,000 lb travel trailer. Finally got fed up and just had a new 383 stroker installed. Now I tow mostly in 4th and it rarely shifts down.

 

[Dover]

My 90 with the TBI 350 and an auto has almost 300k on it (probably more than that since the odometer was not working when I got it and I do t know how long it was busted) and after a little work she pulls a 20 foot tandom axle with two 500 4x4 quads on it just fine. If she’s not leaking tons of oil and has good compression I would start with a partial top end. If it’s still factory the intake manifold gasket and EGR may not be in the best shape. I did the gasket because I developed a massive coolant leak on the back, and found the EGR passages totally blocked with carbon. New gasket, EGR, TBI rebuild and good cleaning, TBI spacer, 1/4” injector spacer and new distributor (old one fell apart when I pulled it) Was where I started. Couple weeks later added a “salad bowl” from Jegs to get rid of the restrictive collar around the TBI and an open element K&N air cleaner. I have heard people say good bad and neutral about the spacers but to me it seems it allows for better atomization of the fuel and better angles to get the air/fuel mix to all cylinders. You will have to come up with some custom solution to raise the throttle cable in line with the TBI if you add one though, I just stacked a bunch of washers under the bracket as the studs were long enough. No idea what if any the actual HP and torque gains were, but the “butt Dyno” says it’s faster off the line and it revs faster than it used to. Next on my list hopefully this summer is shorty headers and a new mandrel bent y pipe and possibly a new high flow cat. Even been kicking around the idea of finding a local shop with a wheel Dyno to run a pull at stock setup, with the intake mods, and then with the exhaust to get a solid set of numbers for what changes what.


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[RDF1]

One issue you will have with a Carb is controlling the transmission.

I would start with the above mentioned Fuel pressure check and Compression test. That will let you know if there is a issue before you start spending money.