Is there any value in swapping an from NP243-c Pushbutton TCase to a manual?

Swap my NP243-c for a manual Transfer Case


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davkenrem

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I currently have my engine, trans and transfer case out of my 1997 K1500 Suburban. I am installing new L31R crate engine, trans is getting rebuilt with Corvette servo and a few other goodies and the NP243-c is sitting on my garage floor patiently waiting to return to it's home.

I have had the truck almost 4 yrs and while I have had zero 4wd drive problems, save for replacing the front diff acutator with a cable Posi-lock, I have always been unsure if my T-case is engaged. The buttons flash and light up and I eventually figure out I am in 4wd, but I miss the surety of manually shifting the Tcase like I had in my 86 Bronco and 78 K25 Pickup.

This weekend LKQ is having a Labor Day 40% off sale. They charge $100.00 for a T-Case which on sale is $60.00.

They have a large number of GMT400 trucks in the yard all sitting on concrete, not mud and they have become my goto place for parts.

So my question to you all, Since I have everything out already and can get the TCase for $60.00 is there any value in swaying to the manual TCase?

From my research I should just have to bolt it on and open the hole in the floor for the shifter and run the linkage. Maybe a little wiring for the lights.

One post I read mentioned that there is a TCase controller on the steering column, I'll check my shop manual but don't remember seeing that when I had the column last month to bolt in my hydro boost pedal.

Anyone know if any codes will be thrown by the swap, since the computer may be looking for the electronic actuator?

The output shaft spline should be the same on a 96-98 K1500 drive flange from what I understand.

Anyone in this august body performed this swap? I'm doing a 411 PCM Swap along with all this work too so if any TCase programming needs deleting it can be done at this time.

At any rate I will be grateful for any advice you all have. Thanks in advance,

Dave
 
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NightRunner

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I was looking into this a few years back for my old 1994 S10 Blazer. From what I was told, the transmission needs the transfer case computer to talk to it so it knows when it should and shouldn't shift for some reason. I can't for the life of me remember what was exactly said, but I know that I was heavily discouraged from swapping it to a manual shift transfer case.

Neither participants in this thread before your post have been active for a bit, so I'll give you what I found. Basically, if you pull the shift computer off of the side of the transfer case, it'll expose a little metal end that connected to the computer. You can fabricate up a shifter to fit around that metal end and technically have your manual shift t-case. Once again, I don't know if this would have a negative effect on your transmission or the transfer case itself. So mod at your own discretion.
 

davkenrem

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I ended up rebuilding the NP243-C rather than swapping since I could not get any definitive info.
 

eshaw

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I'm not familiar with the full size trucks but I do know that the S series requires a momentary ground signal to the module that controls the trans shifting and line pressures. There is a seperate set of tables that are used for the trans when in 4x4 operation.
 

Supercharged111

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4Lo has tables, but only HPT supports it. My EFILive does not. I like my 243, even kicked around the idea of swapping in a 246 but I have enough projects already. If it turns into a turd I may change my tune, but back at 220k I opened it up to swap in a 32 spline input shaft, lock ring eliminator, and replaced the 2-4wd shift fork pads. Everything was still good to go in there.
 

alpinecrick

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I ended up rebuilding the NP243-C rather than swapping since I could not get any definitive info.

I've had/have both. Although I prefer the manual linkage, my 243C's have given me zero problems. The most common thing I've heard is the front output shaft bearing becomes worn and the yoke hits the motor.

I just recently had the trans out on my 96, and was going to rebuild the T-case but others talked me out of it. The front output shaft was tight and had zero play in it at 240,*** miles.

Question: What kind of puller did you use to pull the front yoke off when rebuilding yours?
 
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