Is a Redhead worth the price?

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Blazer 383

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I am thinking about installing a close-ratio steering box on my 92 Blazer, I am running 20s with 305/50s. The truck is as low as can be with tire/rim size. Redhead makes one. They’re like 400$ + shipping + core + return shipping. Anyone, have or driven a truck with this set-up?
Was also told that all they do is stick Z/28 guts into the K-1500 box. Can anyone confirm
 

Jayboney

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Redhead remans are good quality (have one in my 96' Hoe stock). Not sure about the particular setup you need, but you can call them and ask. They should be able to set it up any way you want. They may have more insight on your particular needs.
 

delta_p

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I never had a redhead but i hear they are good. Not sure about the close-ratio. For $400 I think I would buy a rebuild kit from plews-edelmann and rebuild a box. Yeah, its a bit of pain to reinstall the balls on the screw but not $400 painful. It's the same job plus an hour or so to reinstall all the seals. It they came and installed the box for $400, I would probably be tempted to buy a redhead.
 

454cid

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A) You mean quick ratio, close ratio is for transmissions.
B) What do you believe the benefit to be? Stock replacement is under half of the redhead price.

Read what Redhead says on their site. They spell out what they do and what many/most mass rebuilders do. Also, I'd like to point out that the rebuild quality is a known problem area with parts store steering gear rebuilds. Even my AC Delco rebuild is a bit sloppy now.

I have not gotten a box rebuilt by Redhead, but when I do address the issue in my truck again, I'm sending the box out to a specific rebuilder.... Redhead, Blue Top, or another, not just order a rebuilt box through regular mass retail channels.
 

618 Syndicate

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Read what Redhead says on their site. They spell out what they do and what many/most mass rebuilders do. Also, I'd like to point out that the rebuild quality is a known problem area with parts store steering gear rebuilds. Even my AC Delco rebuild is a bit sloppy now.

I have not gotten a box rebuilt by Redhead, but when I do address the issue in my truck again, I'm sending the box out to a specific rebuilder.... Redhead, Blue Top, or another, not just order a rebuilt box through regular mass retail channels.
I wasn't saying the extra cost wasn't justified, I was asking if it was.
 

delta_p

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Just to be clear a full rebuild can be done with $40 dollars in parts. It doesn't have to just be the seal kit. I bought a plews-edelmann 8625 for all the seals, but if you buy the 7857 kit too it comes with the needle bearings and the sector shaft seal gasket. And you'll have a few spare seals in case something got F'd. Most saginaw housing and bearings are the same. The bearings punch out with socket and tap in too. I rebuilt my '96 box a few years ago and she's all good now.
 

sewlow

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Was also told that all they do is stick Z/28 guts into the K-1500 box. Can anyone confirm
Been a while since I posted this.
Had to go back & dig through 2 different old retired computers to find where I had saved it.
'Wrong password'. Damn.
'Wrong password'. Sh*t.
'Wrong password'. Arrghhh.
'Wrong password'. Must. Not. Throw. Mouse at screen. Grrr.
C'mon. Give it up, B*tch!
Took a while.

In these trucks, GM used a Saginaw model 605 steering box.
Ford & AMC used them too.

Quick ratio steering boxes were installed in later model G- or F-body units. They were original equipment on;
1983-'88 Chevelles and El Caminos. (w/Z-65 suspension option.)
1984-'88 Monte Carlos. (w/Z-65 suspension option.)
1986-'87 Grand Prix. (w/FE2 or F41.)
1983-'84 Hurst/Olds.
1985-'87 Olds 442s.
1984-'87 Buick Grand Nationals or T-Types.
1984-'87 Buick Regal. (w/FE2 or FE3 Sport suspension.)
1985-'87 Olds Cutlass. (w/5.0 liter. VIN code 9)
1982-'85 Trans Am. (except FE1. 'Soft Suspension'.)
1986-'92 Firebird. (except FE1)

These are 12.7:1 units, however, and they're not easy to find, as they were used on performance suspension options in many applications. They can be identified by a 'YA', 'WS', or 'HX' marking on the end cap opposite where the steering column attaches.
These units will reduce steering wheel revolutions from lock to lock down to 2¼ to 2¾ turns.

These boxes all use the same...
Line Thread Size: M18x1.5 and M16x1.5.
Number of Mounting Holes: 3.
Input Shaft Diameter: ¾-inch.
Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch.

The following got a slightly slower 14-1 ratio S/box.
Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2.75 - 3.25.
1991-'92 Fleetwood.
1992-'95 Grand Cherokee.
1984-'93 Comanche.
1984-'95 Cherokee/Wagoneer.
1983-'86 Bonneville.
1982-'93 2WD S-10 Blazer and pickup.

There are other Q/R boxes on pre-'82 vehicles, but, they use different fluid lines & 4-point 'H' style mount.
Also...
Early = standard SAE fittings, 5/8" or 11/16" whereas the later ones use metric 16mm or 18mm fittings, + 'O'-rings in the fittings for a better seal.

An easy cheat instead of using a Q/R S/Box...
Different body styles have different length arms: The F-Body arms are longer than the A- or G-body parts, and using the those Pitman and Idler arms fool the steering box into thinking it's a Q/R. Longer sweep = same input/more degrees of turning at the wheels.
MUST use the corresponding I-arms & P-arms from the same vehicle when doing this.
Also...need to be careful with this mod as too long of arms & they could cause inner fender well, frame & suspension clearance problems when used in different body styles.

With a Q/R box, use the factory length I/P arms.

Plus...
Replace the rag joint or do one of the more common upgrades.
Solid (Alu? Steel?) rag joints are available.
Flaming River & other Co.'s have conversion universals that eliminate the Rag joint. WalMart sells one. Yea! WalMart! Cheap too. That WalMart part number has been posted up a few times. One of the items I forgot to record when I saved this info.
Someone here knows.

Your's being a '92 is eligible for the Jeep shaft upgrade.
Easy & inexpensive. Great bang for the buck. Under $20.00 & installed in less than an hour.
 
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