Intercooler install

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Dennis Wilkie

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I'm looking to install a Hayden 1677 transmission cooler, in-system. Is there any way I can do this without cutting into the lines? Because i'm buying brand new transmission lines as well, and I definitely am not trying to cut into brand new lines. Are there any kind of adapters I could use instead of cutting the lines and adding fittings?
 

alpinecrick

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Is this for a 1964 Ford Falcon or a GMT 400 truck?

What truck? What year? What motor? Which transmission? Does it already have a external cooler on it?

The cooler you have listed appears to have the inlet/outlets spaced further apart than the factory cooler does.

On GMT 400's with an external cooler there are three lines--one from trans to the auxiliary cooler located in the pass side radiator tank, a line from the auxiliary cooler to the external cooler, and a line from the external cooler back to the trans. The two lines that connect to the external cooler have rubber hose sections on them and are somewhat flexible.
 

Dennis Wilkie

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Forgot this wasn't the Chevy Talk forum. It's a 92 k1500 4x4 with a 5.7L 350 motor swap and 700r4 transmission. No intercooler or oil cooling lines, just an a/c condenser and radiator. The first 2 pictures are both ends of the transmission lines, and they're solid metal lines. None of that leaking crimped rubber, quick connect bs.

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alpinecrick

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So.....from the pics you don't have an external trans cooler, nor is the auxiliary trans cooler hooked up. And the engine oil cooler lines aren't hooked up, either.

If I was to buy a trans cooler this would be the one:
https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/oil_and_transmission_coolers/supercoolers/parts/70274

The factory outlet line from trans to the auxiliary cooler is a factory all steel line but is no longer available. The factory line from auxiliary cooler to the external cooler, and the factory line from external cooler back to the trans have a flexible rubber section in them. As I mentioned they might be flexible enough to attach to a aftermarket cooler with different port spacing.
The AC Delco factory style lines are the only ones that won't leak, the aftermarket factory style lines tend to be jumk.

Your other option is to get out your tubing bender. Or cut out the rubber section of the factory style lines and install a AN braided line section.

The 1677 cooler looks to be about the same size as the factory cooler, and after looking closer it appears the ports may be close to factory spacing.

Your desire to have steel lines is a good one. Rigid lines flow better and are less prone to leaks, but it ain't going to be easy getting all the correct bends.

And get your engine oil lines hooked up to the driver side auxiliary cooler fer' crying out loud.......
 

Dennis Wilkie

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That's been the farthest thing from my mind. Here's a few pictures of what i've been dealing with since I bought it in January. I've replaced the entire front end, the whole emissions system, the cooling system except for the radiator, transfer case repair, all of the throttle body cables, sensors, and hoses, got rid of the trailer tires he brought it on, $100 on led bulbs, just got finished with the transmission yesterday, and still haven't made it around to the rear brake system. After I fix the leaks and it's mechanically sound again, then maybe i'll get to some of the fun stuff. It's cost me a small fortune, but i've almost got a brand new antique 4x4

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alpinecrick

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df2x4

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Seconding the TruCool M7B. (Not sure about the H7B in the above Amazon link, though) The M7B is exactly the same as the factory AUX cooler, just taller. You can even install them with slightly trimmed factory mounting brackets. I put one in my red truck when I did the 4L80E swap.

EDIT - They're manufactured by Long Inc, who also make the B&M/Holley coolers AND the factory AUX coolers that came on these trucks.
 
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