Intake Gasket Replacement

[andy396]

Okay, what is the trick to remove the EGR tube from the intake? I've PB Blastered it for days and it still will not let the fitting turn without twisting the pipe. Can't get the wrench I have on the exhaust end, so I don't know if it will break loose. The part is available, but I really don't want to buy and wait on another part, unless I have too. My guess is no. This working between weather fronts is killing me!

Heat it cherry red with a torch. Wrench it while still red. Don't melt or catch anything on fire during the process. Obviously, don't do this if you've got open fuel lines.

 

[fuschnicker]

Heat it cherry red with a torch. Wrench it while still red. Don't melt or catch anything on fire during the process. Obviously, don't do this if you've got open fuel lines.

 

[Slime]

inally got mine finished a couple weeks ago. This thread was a big help. Ironically, the heater hose disconnect came off and went back on without a hitch. My EGR pipe...not so much. Had to break it in half to remove it. Then, installed a new one. ( The joys of working outside in a parking lot ) The only issue is it's throwing a 1406 code (EGR) Maybe I need to clean it.( Scan gauge 2 so I can just clear it on the fly )I removed it, but had to use the original gasket since my kit didn't have that one. Thanks everyone!

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Do work son!

Yowtch!

 

[luconi]

Okay, what is the trick to remove the EGR tube from the intake? I've PB Blastered it for days and it still will not let the fitting turn without twisting the pipe. Can't get the wrench I have on the exhaust end, so I don't know if it will break loose. The part is available, but I really don't want to buy and wait on another part, unless I have too. My guess is no. This working between weather fronts is killing me!

I ran into this same issue when I did mine. I ended up cutting the pipe with a sawzall and having to use a socket and a 3' cheater bar to turn the fitting off. The fun thing is it ended up cracking the intake around the threaded part of where the EGR tube because of all the thread sealant that was put on there from the factory. You may need to remove the exhaust manifold to get the EGR tube off of that end.

I was able to repair it by cleaning and prepping the surfaces really well and strategically using JB weld. It's been holding up great with the replacement EGR tube.

 

[Slime]

I ran into this same issue when I did mine. I ended up cutting the pipe with a sawzall and having to use a socket and a 3' cheater bar to turn the fitting off. The fun thing is it ended up cracking the intake around the threaded part of where the EGR tube because of all the thread sealant that was put on there from the factory. You may need to remove the exhaust manifold to get the EGR tube off of that end.

I was able to repair it by cleaning and prepping the surfaces really well and strategically using JB weld. It's been holding up great with the replacement EGR tube.

I ended up braking the pipe and removing it that way. It unscrewed easy at both ends once the erg pipe was cut in half..

 

[Pinger]

Bearing in mind I am in the UK and don't have such easy access to suppliers that you guys do - can anyone comment on what is available to me in the UK in the way of inlet manifold gasket kits?

A company called Real Steel (see catalogue page #35, 9nth item in Inlet Manifold Gasket Set list) have one with part # BYMS16167 for Vortec 8 bolt heads. There are Victor Reinz and Felpro logos shown but no reference as to who made said gasket (set). It's priced at £22 (circa $27).

There's another company USA Automotive who offer MS90131 (FEL) kit for £75 (circa $90) which as far as I can tell is Felpro but not the ones I've seen recommended on this thread.

Does anyone recognise either? My first thought is to the Real Steel one on price and also because USA Automotive's Fedex deal makes delivery to me (Scottish Highlands) even costlier but I'm open to your advice.

Real Steel have been trading in the UK for decades so I'm not expecting them to sell trash or they'd have disappeared long time back.

Thoughts?

 

[Pinger]

Also, will I get away with just draining coolant at the two drain plugs on the block (ie, will it lower the coolant level enough for working on the top end of the engine)?
I've just renewed the coolant and can catch and re-use from the block drains but not so easily from the rad and getting new coolant while still in lockdown isn't so easy.

 

[someotherguy]

That MS90131 appears to be the original style plastic gasket; the ones that fail prematurely. Searches for BYMS16167 don't pull up any useful results for me.

I'd keep looking for the correct Fel-Pro MS98000T (that part # assuming your engine is a small block!) from a supplier that you can work with.

As far as lowering the coolant level, I simply used a squeeze bulb siphon hose down the radiator filler neck as far down as it would go, into a clean drain pan that I use specifically for coolant, never oil. That way I re-used the coolant afterwards. It wouldn't hurt to strain it through a clean old t-shirt over a large funnel into a jug, to catch any debris along the way.

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Richard

 

[Schurkey]

will I get away with just draining coolant at the two drain plugs on the block (ie, will it lower the coolant level enough for working on the top end of the engine)?
I've just renewed the coolant and can catch and re-use from the block drains but not so easily from the rad and getting new coolant while still in lockdown isn't so easy.

Block drains are the PREFERRED method of dropping coolant level before working on the engine.

All my vehicles get brass draincocks instead of the OEM iron/steel plugs, except when the block drain hole is being used as a port to attach the knock sensor.