Instrument cluster question

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Oldblue98

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I think I may know the answer to this because I have crossed this road before with other types of vehicles, but here goes anyway. The 1997 I just bought has perfect working gauges in it, no flickers no jumps no up & downs and this truck is a V6... Blue is 1998 5.7 and the oil gauge has flickered for many years, gas gauge as well at times but not all the time.
Will the cluster out of the 97 V6 interchange with the 98 5.7 ? And if so how big a deal is it to change out the odometer in the cluster to keep mine with the right odometer reading.

I went down the road with Jeeps before, and the tachs was different for the 4 cyl versus 6 cyl and I am almost sure it will be different in the GM V6 versus V8

I know this must of been asked before here but I have not found it.
Thanks in advance
 

454cid

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You can fix those gauges. I plan to do mine. You need to replace the "air core motor" on the gauges. They're for sale on ebay. I watched a video about doing it a few weeks ago.
 

Oldblue98

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Where was the video ? Was it on youtube ? I know it must require soldering, in my old age my hands has gotten as shaky as a wino with DT's and I don't have great success at soldering intricate parts =)
 

Z71Hobbs

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Where was the video ? Was it on youtube ? I know it must require soldering, in my old age my hands has gotten as shaky as a wino with DT's and I don't have great success at soldering intricate parts =)
It’s really easy. Take off plastic shield. Then pry the gauge face up starting from the lower right side. Unplug the odometer. The air core motors are held on by a couple torx screws. Really easy
 

Oldblue98

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It’s really easy. Take off plastic shield. Then pry the gauge face up starting from the lower right side. Unplug the odometer. The air core motors are held on by a couple torx screws. Really easy
Yes I see , I just watched the video on it looks straight forward. Is it safe to say that ordering them from ebay based on year and model is safe or should I pull it apart to check number on motors first ? Anyone order them from ebay before ??
 

454cid

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Yes I see , I just watched the video on it looks straight forward. Is it safe to say that ordering them from ebay based on year and model is safe or should I pull it apart to check number on motors first ? Anyone order them from ebay before ??

I haven't ordered yet. I was going to get the fuel motor first, as my oil gauge issue could be the sender instead, and it's not nearly as annoying as the fuel gauge. The motors are different for the different gauges... just in case what you've read/watched hasn't explained that.
 

someotherguy

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It’s really easy. Take off plastic shield. Then pry the gauge face up starting from the lower right side. Unplug the odometer. The air core motors are held on by a couple torx screws. Really easy
Yep, the lens/bezel assembly has tabs at each end that are easy to depress and pop it off:
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When you pry the gauge face up, just be careful as it's nothing more than a thick sticker attached to clear plastic. A plastic putty knife would work great just be sure you have it between the clear plastic and the cluster housing. What you're prying apart are where the motors plug into sockets in the housing (see the square metal sockets in the housing and the studs on the back of the motors):
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The talk you've heard of having to desolder/solder the gauge motors are the stepper motor style used in the GMT800 (1999-up redesign) trucks, like this cluster out of my 2006 Silverado SS. Much less fun to work on, but still not difficult to DIY:
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Richard
 

Oldblue98

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Yep, the lens/bezel assembly has tabs at each end that are easy to depress and pop it off:
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


When you pry the gauge face up, just be careful as it's nothing more than a thick sticker attached to clear plastic. A plastic putty knife would work great just be sure you have it between the clear plastic and the cluster housing. What you're prying apart are where the motors plug into sockets in the housing (see the square metal sockets in the housing and the studs on the back of the motors):
You must be registered for see images attach


The talk you've heard of having to desolder/solder the gauge motors are the stepper motor style used in the GMT800 (1999-up redesign) trucks, like this cluster out of my 2006 Silverado SS. Much less fun to work on, but still not difficult to DIY:
You must be registered for see images attach


Richard
Great write up Richard thanks, I watched the video and read quiet a bit, I am ready to put my blindfold on and go for the gusto. Thanks everyone for the responses
 
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https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/

That link is to a source for the air core servos. I believe mostly used, but tested, units. My son's 2000 K3500 needs one for the fuel gauge and I haven't ordered/replaced it yet due to health problems, so I_cannot_vouch for the company. Hope this helps.
 

Oldblue98

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https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/

That link is to a source for the air core servos. I believe mostly used, but tested, units. My son's 2000 K3500 needs one for the fuel gauge and I haven't ordered/replaced it yet due to health problems, so I_cannot_vouch for the company. Hope this helps.
Thanks will look it over, the oil pressure gauge in mine has twitched for years, it holds good oil pressure but I would like to fix it, gas gauge is more like a viberating needle it don't twitch or jump
 
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