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You don't need the clearcoat over the topcoat gloss, you don't really need the polyester prime either. I try and make plug welds nice, but you can always take a little filler and put a dab where the welds are, and a little sanding to smooth the surface before spraying the epoxy.So does this look like a decent strategy for painting the window trim?
Sand back down to bare metal.
Prime it. www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Activated-EPOXY-Primer-3680034/dp/B07CXPQ814/
Smooth it because my welding sucks. www.amazon.com/SprayMax-3684026-Polyester-Filler-Primer/dp/B08142BHQK/
Paint it. www.amazon.com/SprayMax-3680222-Topcoat-Black-Gloss/dp/B0897987KG/
Clear coat it. www.amazon.com/Spray-Refinishing-Permanent-Surfaces-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY/
That's about $120 versus $40 in Rustoeum primer and paint, but if it keeps me from losing the rear window once, it's worth it. Is SprayMax a decent rattle can urethane?
yes. that is how we do it, let the epoxy dry enough to put 3/4" tape across it where the urethane will be. Finish all you other steps with the tape on to protect the epoxy. I don't use rattle cans so I don't know the quality of that product. Read the tech sheet, I bet it is thin and may take more coats than an epoxy from a spray gun.So, prime it with the epoxy primer I linked to above. Tape off the actual window mounting surface, proceed with smoothing, painting, and clear coating the rest, then pull the tape and have the window installed right on the epoxy primer?
Understood. I mean, I can weld well enough (that's part of bodywork, is it not?) that, with a little practice, I could get certified.
Paint, however, it's a patient mans game.
That's about the truth right there.Before I ask if this is a joke, what kind of welding are your working on getting certified for? A lot of really good welders cant or wont even touch sheet metal used for body work on vehicles.
No, not for any weld shop. For welds in certain industries, yes.I thought one must be certified to work in any weld shop. It's not that I'm trying, it just seems that lack of certification would impeded a potential job application.
yes, it is a whole different ballgame. I can't do some of the stuff the really good thick or specialty metal welders do,Before I ask if this is a joke, what kind of welding are your working on getting certified for? A lot of really good welders cant or wont even touch sheet metal used for body work on vehicles.
Before I ask if this is a joke, what kind of welding are your working on getting certified for? A lot of really good welders cant or wont even touch sheet metal used for body work on vehicles.
yes, it is a whole different ballgame. I can't do some of the stuff the really good thick or specialty metal welders do,
they hate my thin stuff.
I would have liked to see what the haz looked like on that. 3/8th's is at the upper limits and many times past what a 110v welder can do.So you all are saying I need not be concerned about getting certified. The thickest thing I've welded (outside of a controlled classroom) is a 3/8 steel plate. I was able to get decent penetration using flux core on a 110 mig welder.