Installing engine

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98k2500

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Quick question. I'm pulling the engine out of my 98 k2500 to rebuild it. This is my first time pulling an engintips?

I got the engine to bell housing bolts out ok.

So my quick question is. It seems like it's going to be a pita when I put the engine back in to line up the engine to bell housing to get the bolts back in. Any tips?
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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Drop the exhaust
Drop the driveshafts.
Yank the t-case and the tranny separately.
Next, out goes the batteries, fan, radiator, and the entire accessory drive bracket system.
Leave the A/C and P/S intact, just drape them over onto the empty battery trays.
Unplug the engine wiring harness from the bulkhead.
Now the engine can come out.
Once the engine is on the motor stand, remove the wiring harness. Much easier access...

That way you don't ruin the distributer, fuel lines, or fragile sensor connectors.
Remember, this beast is 24 years old so check all rubber mounts for replacement while the engine bay is empty. Heck, now's a great time to pressure wash the oil leaks...

Upon reinstallation, get the engine wired, back on the mounts, and work from underneath to re-stab the tranny on the dowel pins.
 
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Erik the Awful

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Watch your lifting straps or cradle to make sure you're not putting pressure on the distributor. I actually prefer pulling the distributor first.
 

98k2500

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Drop the exhaust
Drop the driveshafts.
Yank the t-case and the tranny separately.
Next, out goes the batteries, fan, radiator, and the entire accessory drive bracket system.
Leave the A/C and P/S intact, just drape them over onto the empty battery trays.
Unplug the engine wiring harness from the bulkhead.
Now the engine can come out.
Once the engine is on the motor stand, remove the wiring harness. Much easier access...

That way you don't ruin the distributer, fuel lines, or fragile sensor connectors.
Remember, this beast is 24 years old so check all rubber mounts for replacement while the engine bay is empty. Heck, now's a great time to pressure wash the oil leaks...

Upon reinstallation, get the engine wired, back on the mounts, and work from underneath to re-stab the tranny on the dowel pins.
Are you saying I should drop the tranny first, before pulling the engine? I can't just leave it where it is and put a jack under it?
 

stutaeng

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I'm assuming you will also remove the flexplate to torque converter bolts?

I think you can leave the transmission in there, just support it as you suggest. Transmission alignment will be aided by the dowel pins on the bellhousing and the engine mounts will locate the engine front to back and side to side.
 

alpinecrick

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About everything Nad and Erik said.....
Trans and t case doesn't have to come out. One trick is to remove the trans mount, lay a chuck of 2x4 flat so it lowers the tail of the trans and angles the front up. That will expose the top bell housing bolts more, and makes it easier to pull and install the motor.

Also, passenger side fender well comes out pretty easily, that exposes the starter and the main wiring loom going to the trans and t case. Whether changing a motor or trans that has made life much easier.
 

98k2500

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Thanks for the advice guys. I appreciate it. I have it all done and ready to pull it tomorrow. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything that would make things easier. Im having fun with this and learning as I go.This forum and everyone here have been very helpful.
 

98k2500

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I have another question. If I needed to replace the crankshaft and purchase an after market crankshaft would I get an external or internal balanced crank? I'm not really clear on the difference.
 

Erik the Awful

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If you have a 350, you use an internally balanced crank. If you have a 400 you use an externally balanced crank. If you have a 383, it depends on the parts used, but typically externally balanced.
 

98k2500

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Thanks Erik. I do have a 350.
After I posted my question I found this on jegs site.

96-2000 internal front/external rear. If I'm understanding correctly there could be a need for weights on the flexplate?
 
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