Installed CM door bushings, still got a sag

[Superdave587]

You're right! I've never, ever said what the well-known issue is.

Not 106,638 times, for years, across multiple forums, including this one.

It's always the new guys.

Richard

Ok I guess I'll figure it out somewhere else.

Thanks

 

[someotherguy]

Ok I guess I'll figure it out somewhere else.

Thanks

Or you could try reading through this thread where the topic is being discussed. It's one of many hundreds of threads on the subject. Sorry if you didn't like my reply but when you come at someone funny, expect a funny reaction..

Richard

 

[Jeepwalker]

Look at the actual latch tang in the door (the part which folds in & locks the door).

Arrow #1: The plastic coating molded around the metal latch tang often wears out (they eventually do). Esp when the door is sagging (worn bushings). You can see on the example below, the plastic is just starting to crack/break.

Arrow #2: The rubber inside could be worn. That holds the door 'tight' to the striker pin when it's closed. You can see the imprint of the striker pin in the rubber in the picture. These can break and fall apart in the worst cases.

Arrow #3: The metal on the topside inside the latch could be worn b/c the striker pin rides up on it each time a worn door is opened/closed. I've seen this entire upper piece of metal completely GONE in a badly worn latch.

The latch below in the picture is in the early stages of wearing out ....but not really worn out (yet). But you can see the beginnings of wear points, where you can look at yours. Worst case I've seen where these locations are completely 'gone' on a severely worn latch.

Latches don't live forever. They are a wear item. They fail sooner if the door is sagging. Eventually they need to be replaced. Below was my 2nd GM latch on the L door. Even so, I replaced it with a new (aftermarket) latch. For about $20 from Amazon (do a search), it makes sense to look carefully at your tk's latch and striker pin .....and replace as needed.

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