Ignorance is Bliss.

[BlueCollar89]

There's no real harm in doing the socket trick until you can afford a more orthodox solution. Welcome to the forum BTW!

Thanks! I've learned quite a bit already! Good to find a community that doesn't burn you at the stake for not knowing something!

 

[94burbk1500]

Thanks! I've learned quite a bit already! Good to find a community that doesn't burn you at the stake for not knowing something!

This place is great, don't be a dick and most of us won't act like *****. There's more knowledge on these trucks here than in any manual or book you can find.

 

[BlueCollar89]

Alright fella's so here's where it gets funny.

I got stuck this weekend because my brand new (bought Friday) thermal actuator failed to engage at all. At this point I've gone through 4 of these damn things; so I'm starting to think there's something wrong electrical that might be shorting out the actuator or loosing power somewhere. I had to destroy the new actuator because I'm that fool that has a toolbox full of everything but what you need (I don't have a mobile tool kit yet, cut me some slack as I just bought a house and had a daughter lol).

I pulled the actuator out and had my wife key on the power to see if it did anything and it didn't; so I was in a bit of a panic because I was about 12 miles out in the middle of nowhere in some BLM land with no cell service; had both the wife and baby with me.

Tried shoving a spent 223 shell in, but it was too long to get the actuator back in to hold it in place. Long story short, this was my solution lmfao and it worked! Had to rip the rubber boot off the actuator because it was preventing me from getting the actuator in far enough to thread; then I cut the wires because honestly, at that point, I was so pissed off I was tired of it flopping around. Needless to say, I don't think Autozone's going to warranty it heh.

This little screwdriver tip sleeve was my salvation when all else failed haha.

Disclaimer: I've tossed a socket into the toolbox "just in case" lol.

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[likestrucks]

I have over 560,000km(350,000 miles) on my 98. 1998 was the first year of the electronic actuator if I am not mistaken. Its all original and works like new, engages immediately. If I ever got into an older obs with the thermal actuators, the electric actuator upgrade would be one of my first upgrades. I have been out with buddies before where we are waiting forever for those thermals to engage. My electric engages immediately.

 

[1989GMCSIERRA]

I’m not sure if you’re complaining or bitching us out.

Personally I don’t care what other people think of my vehicles. I do as little as possible to them. When something breaks I fix it. If it needs maintenance I maintain it. Seems pretty simple. I have a lot of things in my life and worrying wether someone is running toe mirrors or sort mirrors isn’t one of them.

I rarely run aftermarket wheels on my vehicles. It’s a expense I don’t need nor do I really want to change the stance of my vehicle. I don’t lift my trucks either. But I’m not going to judge you for doing it to yours either. My old GMC is basically a toy so I’ll play with that eventually wit airbags suspension etc. but it’s a play toy. It will eventually get some bigger wheels but that’s because I’m possibly gonna run bigger brakes and the 15s won’t fit. Otherwise the 15 inch wheels are fine. All my other vehicles run factory wheels.

As for your mechanical ability I guarantee you that nobody on this board was born with a wrench in one hand and a screwdriver in the other. We all learned from friends family or looking online for repairs.

 

[BlueCollar89]

I have over 560,000km(350,000 miles) on my 98. 1998 was the first year of the electronic actuator if I am not mistaken. Its all original and works like new, engages immediately. If I ever got into an older obs with the thermal actuators, the electric actuator upgrade would be one of my first upgrades. I have been out with buddies before where we are waiting forever for those thermals to engage. My electric engages immediately.

I appreciate your input on this. It's been recommended, and at this point it's pretty much what I'll be looking into. I've kind of run out of options sadly.

I’m not sure if you’re complaining or bitching us out.

Personally I don’t care what other people think of my vehicles. I do as little as possible to them. When something breaks I fix it. If it needs maintenance I maintain it. Seems pretty simple. I have a lot of things in my life and worrying wether someone is running toe mirrors or sort mirrors isn’t one of them.

I rarely run aftermarket wheels on my vehicles. It’s a expense I don’t need nor do I really want to change the stance of my vehicle. I don’t lift my trucks either. But I’m not going to judge you for doing it to yours either. My old GMC is basically a toy so I’ll play with that eventually wit airbags suspension etc. but it’s a play toy. It will eventually get some bigger wheels but that’s because I’m possibly gonna run bigger brakes and the 15s won’t fit. Otherwise the 15 inch wheels are fine. All my other vehicles run factory wheels.

As for your mechanical ability I guarantee you that nobody on this board was born with a wrench in one hand and a screwdriver in the other. We all learned from friends family or looking online for repairs.

Nope, not complaining or bitching out, just sharing a ****** situation that I ran into lol. It was my own dumb ass that failed to toss a socket into the toolbox just in case I had another actuator failure; and the fellas here on the board recommended that in plain English.

I'm not at all complaining or chewing anyone out haha, I've enjoyed everyone's input. In regards to all my "cut me some slack" jargon, that's just reflex from all the facebook hotheads. I haven't used a forum in a long time, and honestly I've never encountered a community so understanding of my ignorance; you said it perfectly "I guarantee nobody on this board was born with a wrench in one hand and a screwdriver in the other"; I'll try to remember that. Seems everyone here has been very brotherly in sharing their knowledge, and nobody has given me any flack for not knowing even something super basic; so I appreciate that.

All that aside, I was actually pretty excited that all this happened as it put me into a situation that I had to figure out a solution using only the knowledge I'd discovered from this very post. The fact that ya'll taught me something that I was able to use to get my truck out of a ****** situation, and I was able to do it on my own was very exciting and empowering to me. Several of my buddies drive 90s chevy's and I think only one of them is knowledgeable, so maybe one day I can pass this on (or pass this knowledge onto my kid!). So I'm grateful for ya'll ^_^

 

[CrustyJunker]

Agreed with above. I've converted a couple trucks to electric actuators and they've proven reliable (to me). As long as you aren't rock-climbing to where you can break one off, they do what they're supposed to. I can only speak on behalf of good quality, OE actuators though. Avoid generic or part store replacements if you can!

Where I live/work, I switch from 2WD/4HI/4LO often. Especially for towing and recovery. My '96 was converted to the electric actuator early in its life and it lasted 200,000-some mixed miles until I sold it (body was on its last leg). I've abused my '95 quite a bit, too...But that one's about 40,000 miles post conversion.

 

[BlueCollar89]

Agreed with above. I've converted a couple trucks to electric actuators and they've proven reliable (to me). As long as you aren't rock-climbing to where you can break one off, they do what they're supposed to. I can only speak on behalf of good quality, OE actuators though. Avoid generic or part store replacements if you can!

Where I live/work, I switch from 2WD/4HI/4LO often. Especially for towing and recovery. My '96 was converted to the electric actuator early in its life and it lasted 200,000-some mixed miles until I sold it (body was on its last leg). I've abused my '95 quite a bit, too...But that one's about 40,000 miles post conversion.

I don't do any crazy crazy stuff. Out here just north of Boise Idaho we have quite a bit of lava rock, but the trails are usually made with fairly low clearance in mind. I took it up a trail that was pretty much all rock and didn't have any issues in terms of dragging or bottoming out. I try not to get too crazy as I usually have the kids with me. I'll be looking into an electric conversion for sure.

I do wish there was a 100% manual engagement option. I don't like electronics. If I had the machinery to build it, i'd figure out a way to make a manual lever activated actuator that would operate the same as the xfer case lever. Since I don't know how 4x4's worked prior to the introduction of all this electronic crap; I'm not sure if it's even possible.

part of me wants to just toss a socket in and forget about it. But after doing some studies, I'm not sure if I'm down with a perma locked front diff due to the added tire wear. Even though I don't drive it that often, with both wheels rotating at the same speed, it would make corning a bit more awkward and increase the tire wear. That's my understanding anyway based on all the articles and video's I've watched on the matter.

My dad was wondering if I could just do some kind of locking hub conversion like he had on his old ford. Hop out, lock the hubs, and drop the lever to engage xfer case and bada bing bada boom you're rollin 4x4. But, that sounded way more expensive than I can handle right now; so I haven't even looked into if it's even possible haha.

 

[CrustyJunker]

I don't do any crazy crazy stuff. Out here just north of Boise Idaho we have quite a bit of lava rock, but the trails are usually made with fairly low clearance in mind. I took it up a trail that was pretty much all rock and didn't have any issues in terms of dragging or bottoming out. I try not to get too crazy as I usually have the kids with me. I'll be looking into an electric conversion for sure.

I do wish there was a 100% manual engagement option. I don't like electronics. If I had the machinery to build it, i'd figure out a way to make a manual lever activated actuator that would operate the same as the xfer case lever. Since I don't know how 4x4's worked prior to the introduction of all this electronic crap; I'm not sure if it's even possible.

part of me wants to just toss a socket in and forget about it. But after doing some studies, I'm not sure if I'm down with a perma locked front diff due to the added tire wear. Even though I don't drive it that often, with both wheels rotating at the same speed, it would make corning a bit more awkward and increase the tire wear. That's my understanding anyway based on all the articles and video's I've watched on the matter.

My dad was wondering if I could just do some kind of locking hub conversion like he had on his old ford. Hop out, lock the hubs, and drop the lever to engage xfer case and bada bing bada boom you're rollin 4x4. But, that sounded way more expensive than I can handle right now; so I haven't even looked into if it's even possible haha.

Fun fact, what you're talking about is available. Have you heard of the 4x4 Posi-Lok?

 

[RichLo]

Your front differential is still 'open' when the actuator is locked. I think you were searching and reading about 'locked' front differentials which is completely different that what we're talking about. Tire wear shouldn't be an issue with doing the socket trick since both tires still spin independently of each other... IE 'open' differential with spider gears. The socket trick is essentially the same thing as leaving the front hubs locked on your Dads Jeep.

And yea, one of the links I posted before is a completely mechanical cable actuated device... the 4x4 Posi-Lok.