I may have an addiction.

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Supercharged111

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Lovely. Well, it's kind of a moot point now. Both connectors are pretty well obliterated. I'm gonna hafta rewire them. Already have them on order at work, should be here in a couple hours.

Plus, I suspect they've been rewired previously, as all the wires are the same color. Also, the insulation seems to be pulling back on all the wires at the connector head.

That may be, but the switch itself still has that goo in it so you will still need heat even with the new connectors.
 

Dravec

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So, I'll be selling Zoe in a couple of months, to my Dad, since he really needs a capable truck for his landscaping business. He doesn't care about her dents or anything, and I get first option on her when he sells her in a couple of years.
 

Dravec

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So, been a LONG while since I updated this thread. Today, I had a fairly short shift at work that let me off during daylight, rather than a closing shift. I finally got under the truck and faced my fears of wiring. Got both plugs on the neutral safety switch rewired, one single wire at a time. Got everything plugged in, hot battery installed, and crossed my fingers.

Welp, I now have PRNDL when I partially turn the key, but as soon as I get to the run position, it goes out again, and won't start. So I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm in desperate need of some help diagnosing this basket case of a truck, or ideas, mystic help, anything. I just don't know where to go from here. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Supercharged111

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Funny my CCSB also has PRNDL display issues, but no running issues. I'd have to go back and see what sent you down this rabbit hole.
 

Dravec

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Funny my CCSB also has PRNDL display issues, but no running issues. I'd have to go back and see what sent you down this rabbit hole.
I suspected a bad neutral safety switch, after I suffered issues with PRNDL function, but if I jiggled the shift lever, it would start. Then the PRNDL flickered, as well as the ABS and brake lights on the cluster, then went out. Then I discovered severely degraded wiring insulation on the plugs for the neutral safety switch. So the truck basically sat for a year, until I finally attempted to deal with the wiring today. Got the plugs rewired, plugged in, hot battery, still nothing.
 

Supercharged111

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I'd return to the part where you jiggled the shift lever and it started and go from there. Ohm through that switch end to end, I wonder if it's as simple as the switch itself needing an adjustment? Like it's right on the fringe of park/reverse, but thinks it's in reverse so won't start type of deal.
 

Dravec

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I'd return to the part where you jiggled the shift lever and it started and go from there. Ohm through that switch end to end, I wonder if it's as simple as the switch itself needing an adjustment? Like it's right on the fringe of park/reverse, but thinks it's in reverse so won't start type of deal.
If I turn the key almost to run, the PRNDL lights up, and when I move the shift lever, it tracks properly at each gear detent. It's only whenever I actually turn it to run that the PRNDL goes out completely.
 

Supercharged111

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If I turn the key almost to run, the PRNDL lights up, and when I move the shift lever, it tracks properly at each gear detent. It's only whenever I actually turn it to run that the PRNDL goes out completely.

There's a stroky looking doohickey under the column and I've been wondering WTF it does. Maybe it strokes with the key? Gonna have to investigate that.
 
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