So I've been doing 5.7 swap from a 1993 k1500 with manual tranny into 1995 k1500 with automatic 4l60e. I noticed on the old engine the oil filter adapter did not have oil lines running to radiator, but my 1993 engine does have them. I have a radiator that can accept them, but I don't know if I use them am I being redundant, or risk damage because I don't necessarily need them. Can anyone spread some light on this for me?
I have a question. About oil cooler lines 1995 k1500
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Not sure why you're starting a new thread for the same engine swap. Perhaps a moderator will combine your threads.
www.gmt400.com
If this were me, I'd swap oil filter adapters, and continue to use the oil cooler you already have.
1993 k1500 engine swap to 1995 k1500
Thanks everyone for the info. It's coming along still. I got most of the engine connected. Just noticed the oil cooler lines didn't really exist on the old engine, but my new one has them so trying to figure out if I delete them or use them now. But Thank y'all. I got the bearing out. Just in case.
www.gmt400.com
If this were me, I'd swap oil filter adapters, and continue to use the oil cooler you already have.
Supercharged111
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It was a factory option, may have correlated with a tow package as it's recommended to have when towing above a certain weight. That said, it's as much of a warmer as it is a cooler, it'll get your oil up to temp faster when it's cold out which is a very good thing. If you have all the stuff there's really no reason not to run it. Check the lines though, they like to leak at the crimp. I put AC Delco lines on my dually back in 2017 and it's been bone dry since. Those came with o rings unlike the Dorman lines I put on the 1500 way back in 2009. The Dormans are weeping ever so slightly.
packer0440
I'm Awesome
I have no idea why GM did this, but if you ordered a manual transmission truck the engine oil cooler was not available as an option. Not sure if they changed this in the later years, but at least on TBIs this was the case; it even applies to 3500s.
In short, you’ll need to swap the adapter over; the old one should have the necessary bypass valves to make it work already
In short, you’ll need to swap the adapter over; the old one should have the necessary bypass valves to make it work already
My 95 5.7 is a manual and has oil cooler lines. What years are you talking about?
packer0440
I'm Awesome
I haven't looked up the exact years, but I know at least the first couple years of the GMT400 were like this. My 1990 K3500 454 has an NV4500 but no oil cooler. If you look up the cooler lines for that year on certain places, it will say "without manual transmission." Here is an excerpt from the 1992 info kit; it's a little ambiguous but to me it means you need the MX0 (automatic) in order to get the oil cooler. In the GM literature, they imply that you should have an automatic for heavy duty/trailering use (even though the 700R4/4L60e isn't what you would call bulletproof when towing)
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When given the option, I will always run an oil cooler. It gives you a significant margin against overheating. You might crack the block, but the crank won't seize.
Hey guys, that worked out well. I had a heck of a time with my HEI and MSD box set up. I tried to use my original, but the harness was butchered for that. Anyways. It's been started and I have set the timing, but I can't figure out why my temp guage isn't working. I know it is located between cylinder 1 and 3 on the 1993 engine and I have that sensor. It is a one wire - green. There are 2 wires that come off the alternator, both black. And one green wire that comes from the general area of left of the throttle body.) Thing is these have all been that way. Before, I know that my dad's temp guage worked (at least moved) He didn't have the sensor between cylinder 1 and 3. I don't believe.
I believe I need to go and get a factory original. Possibly 2 wire. When the car is running I believe the smaller black wire becomes hot. The larger guage black wire does not become hot in ACC or Running. So I think it's a ground. The green wire that has length to stretch all the way over is hot when in ACC. I attempted to connect them due to the same color green, and when I turned my key to ACC it was real slow to bring up my guage lights, so I don't think that is it. I'll be attaching pictures.
Last thing is. The alternator is a high output and is running 168+ degrees so I'm thinking I need to ground it using accessory bars due to aluminum serpentine set up.
Pics a little messed up order, but anyways. This is a 1995 so it's all different. Unfortunately.
I believe I need to go and get a factory original. Possibly 2 wire. When the car is running I believe the smaller black wire becomes hot. The larger guage black wire does not become hot in ACC or Running. So I think it's a ground. The green wire that has length to stretch all the way over is hot when in ACC. I attempted to connect them due to the same color green, and when I turned my key to ACC it was real slow to bring up my guage lights, so I don't think that is it. I'll be attaching pictures.
Last thing is. The alternator is a high output and is running 168+ degrees so I'm thinking I need to ground it using accessory bars due to aluminum serpentine set up.
Pics a little messed up order, but anyways. This is a 1995 so it's all different. Unfortunately.
Attachments
Ground the green wire, turn the key to "Run", not "Accessory". If the temp gauge goes up to "Too Damned Hot", that's the wire for the temp sending unit.
