I bought a lowered C1500 and I need some advice on how to improve axle clearance and ride quality

[nicknpc]

Scrap those springs and get a stock set and a flip kit like what you posted from Belltech. As advised above, junkyard ones are cheap and plentiful.
Bolt in notch is fine, cutting the frame is time consuming without a plasma cutter, but can be achieved with a sawzall and grinder. Don't use a torch, the heat will weaken the metal around the cut.
Pancake bumpstops will give you a little more clearance, and helper bags will give you the ability to haul your bikes around without issues.

There's a wealth of experience and advice on lowered trucks here, many of us have been driving these trucks dropped since they were new. everything @sewlow and @someotherguy said is spot on.

Another question I forgot to ask. Is there a good instructional video for cutting the C notch? At this point I am 100% sold on the 4/6 drop and the helper bags, but I'm afraid of making the frame sag with a bolt in rather than a weld in notch..

 

[618 Syndicate]

Another question I forgot to ask. Is there a good instructional video for cutting the C notch? At this point I am 100% sold on the 4/6 drop and the helper bags, but I'm afraid of making the frame sag with a bolt in rather than a weld in notch..

I'm sure there are, but it's really simple, put the notch against the frame, trace it with a paint marker or sharpie, cut to your mark.
A bolt in is plenty strong, as @sewlow said, have a welder stitch it in for you if it makes you feel better, but it's 100% not necessary. It's a partial notch, you don't cut all the way through the frame. You'd have to work hard to eff it up. I've done a bunch of these, the dually, 81 burb, and the NBS in my signature are all notched one way or another, and that's just what I have currently.

 

[95burban]

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These are IHC helpers on my 2010 gmc. I also have the slam air on my obs. Helpers are a must for me, I’m always hooked up to a trailer

 

[someotherguy]

Dirtbikes don't weigh much; I say get some good springs and the flip kit and notch in there and see how she does. I've put a lot of weight into dropped trucks without need for helper bags. In the case of '95Burb hauling a trailer, certainly, especially on a heavier truck like a Suburban without a frame notch.

As far as the notch installation, as mentioned, they're not hard to install. Key things would be properly supporting front/rear of the area you're working so that it stays square. Careful placement of the template before cutting goes a long way. I bought a truck years ago that someone else had notched and they got it off center just a tiny little bit, and the bump stop brackets would smack the notch on really hard bumps. It was just a minor, occasional annoyance so I didn't see much need to worry about it. If it was any worse I would have just cut the bump stop pads a little bit. No sense trying to move the notch after it's cut.. that's a much bigger job.

Richard

 

[618 Syndicate]

Dirtbikes don't weigh much; I say get some good springs and the flip kit and notch in there and see how she does. I've put a lot of weight into dropped trucks without need for helper bags. In the case of '95Burb hauling a trailer, certainly, especially on a heavier truck like a Suburban without a frame notch.

As far as the notch installation, as mentioned, they're not hard to install. Key things would be properly supporting front/rear of the area you're working so that it stays square. Careful placement of the template before cutting goes a long way. I bought a truck years ago that someone else had notched and they got it off center just a tiny little bit, and the bump stop brackets would smack the notch on really hard bumps. It was just a minor, occasional annoyance so I didn't see much need to worry about it. If it was any worse I would have just cut the bump stop pads a little bit. No sense trying to move the notch after it's cut.. that's a much bigger job.

Richard

Don't be a bag hater lolololololol

He's right, they may not be necessary, but I stick by my recommendation.

 

[someotherguy]

Don't be a bag hater lolololololol

He's right, they may not be necessary, but I stick by my recommendation.

Two pinball machines (probably weigh as much as a pair of dirtbikes) and a 4x8 trailer with another pinball, an old 50's-60's steel/formica worktable, and some other stuff.. I literally moved into that shop using my slammed C2500LD (mind you of course full 2500LD spring pack in place, with flip and notch)

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Cab onna trailer from about 100+ miles away, this was early in my shop game and my buddy needed a good cab w/title to replace one that someone butchered the firewall around the steering column support (this cab became the flat black Caddy-clipped RCSB you may have seen me post at one point or another)

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Bed full of 19.5's, wheels and tires, 8 mounted, 4 loose wheels. Ball breakers

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20' car hauler trailer with a T-bird body shell (including rear axle and springs to make loading easier) going to the blasters. This is probably the run that put the little dents in my notch brackets at the bump stops.. might coulda used air bags on this trip.

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Oh man, I almost forgot this one. Raggedy old Western Hauler bed I thought I might convert to a wrecker bed, it was a little too much for the old trailer tires, one blew on the ship channel bridge so my wrecker buddy showed up and I threw his dollies on it for the rest of the trip home. Man I worked the hell outta that lowered truck.

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Richard

 

[someotherguy]

Which I guess is something I might add, I know OP you are looking for better axle clearance AND ride improvement - a flipped axle on stock springs, with upper and lower shock extenders, the rear will ride very much like a stock truck. The only real difference will be the valving in those drop shocks will be a bit stiffer than everyday-stocker shocks. You do want this, especially with those wide tires; a stiffer ride will help keep them out of your fender lips.

One thing you could also do while you're in there replacing rear springs, is get a C2500"LD" spring pack. This will stiffen the ride further, but not significantly, and it will increase your load-carrying ability. A stock C1500 spring pack is 3 leafs and 1 overload leaf. A C2500 "light duty" (6 lug, 7200lb GVWR) is 4 leafs and 1 overload leaf.

With the flip kit in place, you will probably achieve a nice level stance with the stock rear shackles. If it sits raked at all and you want a little more rear drop, a set of shackles that have a 1" and 2" position will do the trick; I can't recommend a brand right off the bat, but many drop shackles are 2" only so watch out for that as it may be more drop than you want.

The C2500LD springs won't beat you up riding around. The ride will be a little stiff, but more sporty-feeling, than what driving around an actual 2500 (8 lug) truck feels like. Everyone's taste is different, but you can believe I have put combined probably 300K miles on a pair of static dropped trucks with the big rear spring pack. My old '92 ECLB had the 4+1 pack as well (F44 suspension) and I treated those trucks like I expected Corvette handling out of them.

Richard

 

[someotherguy]

Another question I forgot to ask. Is there a good instructional video for cutting the C notch? At this point I am 100% sold on the 4/6 drop and the helper bags, but I'm afraid of making the frame sag with a bolt in rather than a weld in notch..

Whatever happened to nicknpc - hopefully he didn't do himself in during the c-notch operation

Get back here OP and post some updates for us!

Richard

 

[Casey916]

Some of those guys that replied to you on reddit are clueless.

That looks to be a 4/6 drop.
At least, an attempt at one. Whomever built it took shortcuts.
The truck is sitting that low, & the diff is still mounted under the springs. Something's funky.
Looks like the springs have been 'sagged' with heat. Takes out the spring's tension. There isn't a whole lot of clearance between the spring & that box support, among other things looking to be awful close where they shouldn't be.
The shackle is original, judging by that rubber bushing condition. Are the front spring hangars original too?
Sagged springs plus a drop hangar could be contributing to the clearance issues.
If those hangars are OEM, then how truck's gotten a lot of low with the springs still on top of the diff.
Like I said. Things don't look quite right.
That lower 'overload' spring shouldn't have a twist in it like that.
Easier & cheaper to get some originals from a wrecking yard if you're on a budget or buy new if you're feeling spendy. New aren't all that expensive.
New bushings, either way. OEM rubber or polyurethane.

A 6" drop is attained with a flip kit. Axles on top of the leafs. Easier to install with the box off.
Yes. You need a C-notch for that. A bolt-in's fine if you're not a welder. Get a welder guy to stitch the ends after it's all done, if you need that for some piece of mind.
The box cross-member above the pumpkin will also need a notch.
The frame has to supported properly before cutting to maintain true.
Drill holes in the corners to be cut. Cut to the holes. This'll prevent stress cracks in the corners.

Those shocks aren't compressing because they're too laid out. They need lower shock extenders. An upper shock mount relocation kit, too.
BellTech Street Performer shocks all 'round.

A rear sway bar can be added later, from a 400 1/2t SUV. Highly recommended. That'll make the truck feel more connected, Fr.>Rr.

The truck looks good!
But that doesn't help if it doesn't ride right.

, question about the 400 1/2 in SUV rear sway bar how does that mount up is it mounted the stock stuff from the SUV or could you send some more light on that and the relocation for the back shocks is that really easy or is that pretty hard to relocate the shock to give it a more up and down stance instead of almost playing grab a foot pit and a sea notch on it and I don't like the way it rides in the back with the way the shocks are they almost look like they're going to lay flat almost

 

[Das Hatt]

, question about the 400 1/2 in SUV rear sway bar how does that mount up is it mounted the stock stuff from the SUV or could you send some more light on that and the relocation for the back shocks is that really easy or is that pretty hard to relocate the shock to give it a more up and down stance instead of almost playing grab a foot pit and a sea notch on it and I don't like the way it rides in the back with the way the shocks are they almost look like they're going to lay flat almost

First off, punctation is your friend. Please use it.

As far as the shock mounts go, the lower extenders are easy to put in. Unbolt the shock, install the extender, re-install the shock to it's new location. The upper mounts are trickier. I'm not even sure you can put the upper ones in without at least raising the bed. I had the bed off when i installed mine. On the RCLB you have to cut one of the bed crossmembers for it to fit.