I bought a lowered C1500 and I need some advice on how to improve axle clearance and ride quality

[nicknpc]

Hey people, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I'm looking to improve the ride quality of my lowered 1988 C1500. The truck isn't in the best shape but I think this is the best place to start fixing it up. Relevant pictures are attached below.

The ride height in the picture is the current ride height and it is really nice, I don't really want to change it. However, with my dirt bike in the back the truck rides the bumpstops that are on the frame and the ride is awful. In picture number 2 you can see the distance between the axle and the frame with an EMPTY bed. I still will bottom out on every drive I take at least once even with an empty bed. The leaf springs are also completely level which I've never seen on a truck before and I am not sure if that is bad and needs to be fixed or if that is typical for a lowered truck.

All that being said I have an idea on what to do and want some advice on the best way to do it. I think the truck definitely need new shocks, but I am unsure what shocks to put in it. I am also wondering if new springs are in order. I do plan on hauling a dirt bike or two regularly, so increasing the clearance to the frame is a must. I think a C-notch would be in order but I am open to other suggestions, I wouldn't mind the ride height increasing slightly. I am primarily a motorcycle guy so part suggestions and website suggestions are appreciated.

Summary:
Do you think I need springs? Which shocks should I get? What C-Notch would you recommend, Bolt in or pay someone to weld one in?

Thanks!

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[sewlow]

Some of those guys that replied to you on reddit are clueless.

That looks to be a 4/6 drop.
At least, an attempt at one. Whomever built it took shortcuts.
The truck is sitting that low, & the diff is still mounted under the springs. Something's funky.
Looks like the springs have been 'sagged' with heat. Takes out the spring's tension. There isn't a whole lot of clearance between the spring & that box support, among other things looking to be awful close where they shouldn't be.
The shackle is original, judging by that rubber bushing condition. Are the front spring hangars original too?
Sagged springs plus a drop hangar could be contributing to the clearance issues.
If those hangars are OEM, then how truck's gotten a lot of low with the springs still on top of the diff.
Like I said. Things don't look quite right.
That lower 'overload' spring shouldn't have a twist in it like that.
Easier & cheaper to get some originals from a wrecking yard if you're on a budget or buy new if you're feeling spendy. New aren't all that expensive.
New bushings, either way. OEM rubber or polyurethane.

A 6" drop is attained with a flip kit. Axles on top of the leafs. Easier to install with the box off.
Yes. You need a C-notch for that. A bolt-in's fine if you're not a welder. Get a welder guy to stitch the ends after it's all done, if you need that for some piece of mind.
The box cross-member above the pumpkin will also need a notch.
The frame has to supported properly before cutting to maintain true.
Drill holes in the corners to be cut. Cut to the holes. This'll prevent stress cracks in the corners.

Those shocks aren't compressing because they're too laid out. They need lower shock extenders. An upper shock mount relocation kit, too.
BellTech Street Performer shocks all 'round.

A rear sway bar can be added later, from a 400 1/2t SUV. Highly recommended. That'll make the truck feel more connected, Fr.>Rr.

The truck looks good!
But that doesn't help if it doesn't ride right.

 

[sewlow]

Oh yea. Welcome!

 

[nicknpc]

Some of those guys that replied to you on reddit are clueless.

That looks to be a 4/6 drop.
At least, an attempt at one. Whomever built it took shortcuts.
The truck is sitting that low, & the diff is still mounted under the springs. Something's funky.
Looks like the springs have been 'sagged' with heat. Takes out the spring's tension. There isn't a whole lot of clearance between the spring & that box support, among other things looking to be awful close where they shouldn't be.
The shackle is original, judging by that rubber bushing condition. Are the front spring hangars original too?
Sagged springs plus a drop hangar could be contributing to the clearance issues.
If those hangars are OEM, then how truck's gotten a lot of low with the springs still on top of the diff.
Like I said. Things don't look quite right.
That lower 'overload' spring shouldn't have a twist in it like that.
Easier & cheaper to get some originals from a wrecking yard if you're on a budget or buy new if you're feeling spendy. New aren't all that expensive.
New bushings, either way. OEM rubber or polyurethane.

A 6" drop is attained with a flip kit. Axles on top of the leafs. Easier to install with the box off.
Yes. You need a C-notch for that. A bolt-in's fine if you're not a welder. Get a welder guy to stitch the ends after it's all done, if you need that for some piece of mind.
The box cross-member above the pumpkin will also need a notch.
The frame has to supported properly before cutting to maintain true.
Drill holes in the corners to be cut. Cut to the holes. This'll prevent stress cracks in the corners.

Those shocks aren't compressing because they're too laid out. They need lower shock extenders. An upper shock mount relocation kit, too.
BellTech Street Performer shocks all 'round.

A rear sway bar can be added later, from a 400 1/2t SUV. Highly recommended. That'll make the truck feel more connected, Fr.>Rr.

The truck looks good!
But that doesn't help if it doesn't ride right.

Well this is some good information, I'm glad I thought to ask over here. Reddit is great for some things but its the same on the corvette subeddit, the forum is the way to go.

I definitely agree that most of the hardware on this truck appears to be original, and what you say about the leaf springs worries me. I knew something looked really weird back here with the springs but I wasn't sure quite what. It really sounds like I should start from scratch. Would the kit below have everything I need?

Belltech Sport Trucks and Muscle Cars

Lower your Sport Truck or SUV right the first time. Belltech Street Performance complete lowering kits include all the parts, pieces and shock absorbers you need to achieve not only the look you WANT, but the ride quality, performance & safety you NEED. B

www.belltech.com

I got a couple questions still if you don't mind. On a typical 4/6 drop, what does the clearance in the rear look like? Do you think it would be up to hauling a couple dirt bikes or do you think I should raise? I really like the lowered look with the 15inch rims.

Also, I imagine if these springs look the way they do I should replace them. Is there a good company that sells rear springs? I see the Belltech kits come with front springs.



Thanks a bunch!

 

[someotherguy]

Stock replacement leaf springs will be needed when you install the flip kit. The ones on your truck have been torched.

You can get some brand new ones, or save bucks at the boneyard - it depends on how many of these trucks are available in the yards near you. If you have a good selection, just look for a truck that doesn't appear beat. If the truck is sitting properly and the bed is in nice shape inside, you can reasonably guess the springs haven't been worn out/overloaded. Inspect each leaf for cracks, which are usually pretty easy to see.

This is also a great opportunity to upgrade your front brakes. Your 1988 regular cab would originally come with 1" rotors, unless it was optioned (not common) with heavy duty brakes, which are 1.25" rotors. Since you're buying a drop kit that includes spindles, get the drop kit with spindles for 1.25" rotors and get new calipers, rotors, and flex hoses at the parts house.

Sure it's a bit of extra work to do the calipers but you're already in there with the spindles popped, and if your brake flex hoses are original they should be replaced anyway as they go bad internally and cause the calipers to drag and eventually lock up.

Richard

 

[Alteca]

I have about the same spring to frame clearance on my truck currently with just hangers and shackles(4” drop). With no c notch and nothing to help the shock situation the ride is awful.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Scrap those springs and get a stock set and a flip kit like what you posted from Belltech. As advised above, junkyard ones are cheap and plentiful.
Bolt in notch is fine, cutting the frame is time consuming without a plasma cutter, but can be achieved with a sawzall and grinder. Don't use a torch, the heat will weaken the metal around the cut.
Pancake bumpstops will give you a little more clearance, and helper bags will give you the ability to haul your bikes around without issues.

There's a wealth of experience and advice on lowered trucks here, many of us have been driving these trucks dropped since they were new. everything @sewlow and @someotherguy said is spot on.

 

[nicknpc]

Scrap those springs and get a stock set and a flip kit like what you posted from Belltech. As advised above, junkyard ones are cheap and plentiful.
Bolt in notch is fine, cutting the frame is time consuming without a plasma cutter, but can be achieved with a sawzall and grinder. Don't use a torch, the heat will weaken the metal around the cut.
Pancake bumpstops will give you a little more clearance, and helper bags will give you the ability to haul your bikes around without issues.

There's a wealth of experience and advice on lowered trucks here, many of us have been driving these trucks dropped since they were new. everything @sewlow and @someotherguy said is spot on.

Helper bags are basically air bags that you inflate and deflate manually right? My dads f250 has a set. Do they make low profile ones for low trucks?

Great advice, Thank you all!

 

[618 Syndicate]

Helper bags are basically air bags that you inflate and deflate manually right? My dads f250 has a set. Do they make low profile ones for low trucks?

Great advice, Thank you all!

Kinda. They can be used with an external or onboard air supply, if you go with onboard (which I both recommend and use on my NBS daily) you can set it up with a minimum pressure. I have it set at 15lbs, once the key is on the compressor kicks on until it reaches the target. I used a keyed source to prevent the compressor from killing the battery if it leaks or blows a line when the engine isn't running.
I use a Slamair setup from Airlift, combined with their on board compressor kit. It's designed for lowered trucks, my NBS daily is 6/8 dropped.

Air Springs For Lowered Trucks | Air Lift Company

Air Lift Company provides SlamAir air springs for lowered trucks and vehicles to increase suspension travel and load capacity.

www.airliftcompany.com

 

[nicknpc]

Stock replacement leaf springs will be needed when you install the flip kit. The ones on your truck have been torched.

You can get some brand new ones, or save bucks at the boneyard - it depends on how many of these trucks are available in the yards near you. If you have a good selection, just look for a truck that doesn't appear beat. If the truck is sitting properly and the bed is in nice shape inside, you can reasonably guess the springs haven't been worn out/overloaded. Inspect each leaf for cracks, which are usually pretty easy to see.

This is also a great opportunity to upgrade your front brakes. Your 1988 regular cab would originally come with 1" rotors, unless it was optioned (not common) with heavy duty brakes, which are 1.25" rotors. Since you're buying a drop kit that includes spindles, get the drop kit with spindles for 1.25" rotors and get new calipers, rotors, and flex hoses at the parts house.

Sure it's a bit of extra work to do the calipers but you're already in there with the spindles popped, and if your brake flex hoses are original they should be replaced anyway as they go bad internally and cause the calipers to drag and eventually lock up.

Richard

Good call on the front brakes, the stock ones on this truck are abysmal. I'll have to check the pick n pull!