I am looking to Turbocharge my 98 Tahoe, How should I prepare my engine, what mods do I need/would be recommended.

[0xDEADBEEF]

NA or boosted? While boost adds cylinder pressure, it also allows you to make power without revving the piss out of it.

Boosted PSI.

 

[Supercharged111]

Boosted PSI.

So they blew up on less than 450hp? Bad luck? Bad tune? That just seems like not enough power to blow up on.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

So they blew up on less than 450hp? Bad luck? Bad tune? That just seems like not enough power to blow up on.

It was a Ford, I should point that out.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

So they blew up on less than 450hp? Bad luck? Bad tune? That just seems like not enough power to blow up on.

Sometimes its luck...My 97s OEM engine self destructed on startup at 57K miles.

 

[Erik the Awful]

The temperature of that boost matters. Back when I had dreams of turboing my RX-7, the gold standard for "real boost" was 15 psi. To get there you'd need a big intercooler. Without an intercooler you would struggle to get over 400hp with the timing pulled out to prevent detonation, and it would heat soak terribly in traffic. With an intercooler it would be streetable with 450 hp.

 

[BPR Speed]

I think a better look into the project would be to lay a bunch of the usual culprit items needed on the table to build this turbo set-up. That and understanding the hurdles needed to overcome obstacles in the way. Here's an initial parts list you should shop for but I may be able to give a dollar range for most of the items I've researched and/or have purchased in the past for my truck personally or the many boosted cars I work on with my close friends.

You'll need to at minimum upgrade to a MPFI spider assembly ($350) if not, you can buy an Australian spider assembly that'll flow the correct lbs per hour the truck needs to safely operate in the brake specific fuel consumption of 500 hp at a safe 80% duty cycle. They usually range from $650-$1200.

OR switch to a marine intake with injector per cylinder on a fuel rail set-up. I purchased mine for $450 (not installed yet). I bought LS1 injectors for about $100 of the internet to meet my HP goals at 60 psi base fuel pressure.

Walbro 450 pump or Hellcat 525 pump: ($180-$225)

6AN fuel lines- the stock lines are just not big enough to flow a lot of fuel. You may be able to get away with stock lines but I doubt it. E85 safe 3/8' lines are the smallest feed line I would run and usually cost around $80-$150 for 20ft you'll need a return line of a minimum of 6AN but I recommend a return line of a 8AN as well, so maybe more fuel lines needed.

Multiple 6AN/8AN fittings off Amazon, Summit (Earl's fuel lines), or fleabay. Expect around $5-$15 per fitting and braided Earls 3/8" fuel lines come usually around $20-$30 per foot crimped with you choice of connector. Fittings: $200 / Braided fuels lines are for the safe builders or rich folk $400 feed and return.

Aeromotive 1000 fuel pressure regulator 1:1 ratio. Not needed but a solid investment to control fuel under boost and not become restrictive to fuel flow to a 500hp set-up. $380

Forward facing exhaust manifolds and cross over piping $500-$800 (tubular or cast - your preference) dependent on what material you purchase and size of the exhaust manifolds. I'd recommend at least a 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 exhaust ports to a 3' collector and cross over pipe. Cast is preferred to handle the weight of the turbo dangling off the end of the collector. Tubular manifolds can flow much better and reduce engine heat soak but crack very easily at the exhaust flanges where they meet the head because of the shearing action the turbo places on the thin walled piping.

Turbo blanket: The turbo will create an immense amount of heat in the engine bay so a turbo blanket is a must.- $250

V-band to T4 flange using V-band clamps: $75

Miscillanious V-bands clamps off Amazon: $200

Down pipe to exhaust system: custom at exhaust shop or purchase pre-bent tubing set and cut your own angles ($175 minimum) Use V-band clamps + another $50. Exhaust shops will probably add another $300 on top.

Waste gate: 44mm V-banded outlet and mounting flange $200 -$400. Dump it below the truck or re-circulate it after the turbo (preferred) add costs to recirculate it back into the exhaust past turbo $120

Intercooler: For a non-junk Chinese unit plan for $400 minimum

Charge piping with couplings depend on size of charge piping but a 2.5" charge pipe is sufficient: $400 - $600 if you don't have a tig welder to weld aluminum and are lucky enough to find a kit that can get close to your routing needs to and from the intercooler. Custom charge piping work "who knows" probably $600 for materials and labor at performance shop at a $100 and hour rate.

Blow off Valve: 38mm to 44mm usually run $250 for the run of the mill name brand models not electrically controlled.

Electric boost controller: $150 / Manual boost controller $45 minus vacuum lines

Turbo: I have an ON3 turbo that can flow enough air for 500hp. They're super cheap at around $380-$450 new. A better option would be a Garrett ball bearing turbo (GTX series) around a 60 trim or 70 trim usually run between $1200-$1800. Be sure to build a turbo bracket that bolts to the engine, unless you like cracked exhaust manifolds.

Turbo oil feed lines and fittings: $180 braided!(don't go cheap here). 3/8" feed and 1/2" minimum return to oil pan. If you run a ball bearing turbo plan on buying an inline oil restrictor for the CHRA feed line. Journal bearing turbos do not require an oil restrictor line the ball bearing turbos.

0411 PCM from junkyard: $35 - $60 depending on your area treasure yard.

HP tuners: 2 credits, OBDII dongle and cable usually run around $500-$600.

Moving the MAF sensor to the turbo inlet $35 coupling plus a filter in front of the MAF sensor $100

Not going to use the MAF? Then you'll need to run speed density. Kits can be found online for around $300 that have sensor that are worth a crap (do not buy a GM Omnibar MAP sensor as they're trash sensors). AEM has a kit for around $300 that runs an air intake temp sensor and a 5bar MAP sensor but you can buy a 2 or 3 bar sensor for a cheaper price if staying below 20 psi.

Total: Roughly $6,940

Just my 2 cents off the top of my head on what's usually needed.