HOW TO: Remove rear trim in extended cab OBS

Discussion in 'OEM and Custom Interiors' started by glendayle, Feb 22, 2012.

  1. glendayle

    glendayle I'm Awesome

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    Alright ladies. Here is some information. I searched for this information in quite a few places but couldn't find much. I'm actually floored by this since these trucks are between 24-14 years old. I would have expected this to be documented already. Looking to get this as a sticky once I've got it completed. Feel free to ask me questions. I'll do my best to respond, and I'll edit the original post to reflect information around questions. I have a 98 extended cab. I'm sure there are some slight variations over the years. I'll do a better writeup later, but this should be pretty helpful. Now that I've got it all apart, I can see what order would have been better than the way I went. I'm not going to focus at all on the front part because I think you all should basically know that the A-pillers just pull out and of course the sill plates come out once you remove the associated screws. I've put my truck back together now so I'm going modify these directions and/or add additional commentary on what the order should be.

    1st things 1st. I would remove the rear seat. I couldn't figure out how this thing comes apart, but when I finally got it, it's easy peasy. There is a plastic cover on each side that sort of covers up the square axle piece. On the passenger side there are two plugs to pull out and the plastic cover pops right off. On the drivers side there is only one plug. Be gentle so you don't break them. Then there is a bolt/nut(15mm both) that you undo on both sides. I did this with the seat folded back. After that, I rotated the seat into the flat position with the seat back folded down and just lifted it out of place.

    Here is the passenger side cover( removed obviously)
    [​IMG]

    square axle thingy. I just placed the bolt back in the hole so I don't lose it.
    [​IMG]

    2nd I would remove the center cross piece. This one is pretty easy. Work from one side to the other prying gently on the bottom. I used a trim tool to help me get behind the edge. You'll be able to feel where the clips are holding it in place. Pop all of the clips accross the bottem, and then you slide the piece vertically to release the top of that trim piece. I think there are 4 clips across the bottom/middle, and 3 across the top lip. I'll have to verify this later. This picture shows the back side of the top and bottom pieces.
    [​IMG]

    Next I removed the top center piece, but after getting this all apart, it may have been better to remove this after the pillars. Hopefully I can determine which way would have been better when i put it back together. This is the piece that I had the most trouble with. You can see from the picture above that I broke all 3 of the center mounting clip locations. There are 3 in the center and 5 against the rear window. Some trucks will have screws along the window instead of clips. The other hard part was that there is an interlocking tab that ties into the pillars that creates some headache. I did put a small crack in the corner near the passenger side. I think all of the pieces with issues will be able to be mended with a plastic welder and I think I'll be able to make it so you cannot even tell. More to come on that later. ADDED: It may be possible to remove the pillars without removing this piece. The edges still interlock, but I believe you can press the pillars outward enough to get free from the top center piece.


    I would do the passenger side rear piller next. You need to use a t-50 bit to remove the lower seat belt bolt. I would also pull the seatbelt all the way out and tie a loose knot in it so it's in fully extended position. Just do it and you will possibly save yourself headache down the road of dealing with a retracted and locked seatbelt like me. Now using a tool, you can work the edge of trim along the door opening and pop out the clips. There are only two, but the trim holds tightly to the edge. If you pulled the seatebelt out a ways, you can now slide the trip piece down the belt to expose the bolt and remove the seatbelt and then you can take the pillar and belt out of the vehicle. If you are just changing out the speaker, you would have access to do this without remove the seatbelt and pillar.
    [​IMG]

    Now to the drivers side. Remove the ashtray and lower cubby compartment. These both just pull out and should be easy to figure out. There are 2 screws below the ashtray that are vertical. There are 3 screws that go horizantally into the sheetmetal. Remove all of these. Also remove the upper seatbelt connection for the drivers seatbelt. Also t-50. Just unclip the cover, undo the bolt, and then let it lay to the floor. At this point you can use your tool to take the trim peices out. I did the upper 1st, but I think it may be easier/better to do the lower piece 1st in retrospect. Here are a couple of pictures that show where all of the holes and clips are. ADDED: Remove the lower piece 1st. It looks like it is held in place by the bottom part of the drivers seat belt, but it just slides behind that plastic box.
    [​IMG]
    Lower piece backside.
    [​IMG]
    Upper peice backside
    [​IMG]


    After you get the pillars loose, you will want to remove the seat belt mechanism. Also t50s. Be careful with a ratchet. I can see someone smacking the window with a ratchet handle and breaking the window.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014
  2. bluex

    bluex Mall Crawlin' MOFO!!!

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    Thank you for posting this! Rep given!

    I have been staring at my truck for awhile trying to figure out the best way. Knowing the location of the clip before hand will help a ton.....
     
  3. Devs93

    Devs93 OBS 4 EVA

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    nice write up
     
  4. Mysilvi

    Mysilvi I'm Awesome

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    This is great due to the fact I will be deadning for the sound system going in very soon. Is there any clips that are needed to purchase before doing this in case somthing breaks??
     
  5. jrp12357

    jrp12357 I'm Awesome

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    Its a shame that my plastic pieces all have broken clips and parts from the previous owner.
     
  6. glendayle

    glendayle I'm Awesome

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    From my experience, no there are no clips that you need to buy. My guess is that if you are removing the door cards, that there may be the christmas tree type push clips that you would want to pick up. For the rear stuff the clips are all metal. They will not break, however the mounting tabs for the clips can and will break if you are not careful. I spent about 5 days going a little at a time so I didn't get too frustrated and just rip it all to shreds. I'll update how to plastic weld if I'm able to successfully repair my folleys.

    Also, please document your sound deadening project. I think our forum could use a "sound deadening bible" for these trucks too.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012
  7. ChrisAU

    ChrisAU War Damn Eagle

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    Thankfully I was able to get my headliner down without messing with them (other than undoing front coat hooks and seat belts). I too searched for this though, nice write-up!
     
  8. glendayle

    glendayle I'm Awesome

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    Yeah, Maybe I'll put a post about the headliner in too. I didn't need to take out any of the rear pillars to get the headliner. Once I removed the A-pillars and the trim pieces over the passenger side door opening and the 2 screws in the coat hanger things the headliner almost "fell" out.
     
  9. Mysilvi

    Mysilvi I'm Awesome

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    Will do, have to say I was inspired a bit by Cableguy184 when he was putting in his sound system but this helps a ton on the back of the cab. For sure I will be picking up the other plugs for the doors just wasnt sure if there was any in the back...and congrats on the Sticky!!!
     
  10. hookedup50

    hookedup50 Newbie

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    I know this is an old thread and thanks for posting it. It was helpful, but did you have any luck using the plastic welder. Even with knowledge of clip location, cold weather caused some issues. I'm checking out sound deadening thread next. Thanks again.
     

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