HOW TO: Fix Bouncy/Hummingbird Fuel Gauge Needle

[Darrin De May]

Very cool! I'm going to give those a try, they definitely look higher tech than the bulbs that I got from the Super Bright LEDs outfit.

 

[Mildphil]

Very cool! I'm going to give those a try, they definitely look higher tech than the bulbs that I got from the Super Bright LEDs outfit.

The superbrightled ones looked like a really old design too, very basic with an inefficient diode. 4 of the ones I liked should work great, they have very accurate color as well. I have 10 more around my truck in my map lights and courtesy lights.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Its a ground issue most likely. The way the fuel gauge works, is from the ground side of the circuit. The better the ground, the more the it shows full. Less ground = empty. I would look for a pinched wire somewhere between the fuel tank, and the cluster that feeds the fuel gauge motor. IMO your picking up to much ground in that circuit.

Depends on the year and engine. All diesels and gas models to 97 are a simple circuit where the reostat/sender pulled the gauges signal wire to ground to move the gauge. 98+ gassers went through the PCM for the fuel gauge. Hence why all the hummingbird fuel gauge needles are 98+ as you're seeing the pwm output of the pcm fluttering the needle. You can also have a fuel buffer module installed in diesels and gassers built from 97- that controls the fuel gauge(it was part of a tsb as an add on if customers complained about excess gauge movement). Then there was dual tank trucks with a dual tank balance module to control the gauge.

 

[Darrin De May]

Depends on the year and engine. All diesels and gas models to 97 are a simple circuit where the reostat/sender pulled the gauges signal wire to ground to move the gauge. 98+ gassers went through the PCM for the fuel gauge. Hence why all the hummingbird fuel gauge needles are 98+ as you're seeing the pwm output of the pcm fluttering the needle. You can also have a fuel buffer module installed in diesels and gassers built from 97- that controls the fuel gauge(it was part of a tsb as an add on if customers complained about excess gauge movement). Then there was dual tank trucks with a dual tank balance module to control the gauge.

A lot of information there! I haven't had my stuck on "Full" problem diagnosed by a professional mechanic yet, the new aircore motor cured the hummingbird effect, and I'd hoped that it would fix both problems. The needle started staying on "Full" shortly before it went really wacky, it would wave wildly, then calm down for a while, stay on "Full", then go nuts again. It's a 2000 C3500 with the L31 5.7 built in 1999.

 

[kennythewelder]

Depends on the year and engine. All diesels and gas models to 97 are a simple circuit where the reostat/sender pulled the gauges signal wire to ground to move the gauge. 98+ gassers went through the PCM for the fuel gauge. Hence why all the hummingbird fuel gauge needles are 98+ as you're seeing the pwm output of the pcm fluttering the needle. You can also have a fuel buffer module installed in diesels and gassers built from 97- that controls the fuel gauge(it was part of a tsb as an add on if customers complained about excess gauge movement). Then there was dual tank trucks with a dual tank balance module to control the gauge.

Good info

 

[kennythewelder]

Mine is a 97. When I installed the Denali cluster, all my gauges except the oil pressure gauge flutter around a lot. So I pulled all the stepper motors from my OE cluster, and installed them in the Denali cluster. They work the same as they did before on my OE cluster. I looked close to see how easy the needles spun around in both clusters. The Denalis original gauge needles were very loose and spun around very easy. The ones in my OE cluster were much stiffer. I could feel like a fluid resistance inside of the motor. Thats when I swapped in my OE stepper motors into the Denali cluster. My fuel gauge does bounce around a little, but it did that in my OE cluster. It is a lot better than what was in the Denali cluster. I know that there are some differences between the ECMs from 97- to 98+. And that the 98+ has more features than the 97-. That being said, the Denali cluster I have is from a 2000. All the gauges did work in my 97, and I would have left them in place, if the needles had not been so loose. Hell when I put my blinker on, the alt gauge would drop and rise with every flash of my turn lights. The fuel gauge, moved back and forth with every time the truck moved at all, as did the temp gauge. As for a flutter, no it was not a flutter, they just bounced around a lot. I will replace my fuel stepper motor in time, but its not that bad now. All my others are good now.

 

[Mildphil]

Very cool! I'm going to give those a try, they definitely look higher tech than the bulbs that I got from the Super Bright LEDs outfit.

Pics of my guages with only two of those lights.

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[jrsroadhauze]

I have a 1992 Silverado with the tachometer option. Recently the Tach will work for about 10 minutes of driving than flutter a go to zero. Any ideas on this. It has the air core stepper motor.

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[HopHead357]

Just tried this and so far it worked great.

Just an update on my post from 2013, it worked great for a time, but about 6 months ago, it started doing it's hummingbird thing again.

Unfortunately, I lost all the supplies to do this in a house fire and haven't wanted to spend the money to buy them again. I think I'm just going to live with it for now.

 

[1995truck]

First, you need your supplies. I bought 30k R/C car diff oil, and it works great:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130804510618?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Then, you'll need some 3ML syringes (without needles):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-****-Syri...330?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1a9a1d62

Now you have all you need.

1) VERY IMPORTANT: Turn key forward to "ON" position, and take a GOOD picture of where your fuel needle is.

2) Turn key off.

3) Remove dash bezel, unplug headlights, cargo lamp switch, air bag switch, and 4x4 switch.

4) Remove 4 screws holding in gauge cluster (they are 7MM hex head screws).

5) Pull gauge cluster, it will come right out.

6) Take inside and put on a table face up. Pull the clear part by pressing the tabs in on the sides.

7) Take a kitchen fork (the kind you eat food with) and gently pry up on the fuel needle with it, going back and forth. Needle should slide up and off.

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8) IMPORTANT: Hold bottle of oil downwards until oil is coming out. Then put syringe into opening and pull back about 1/2" of oil.

9) Turn syringe up and press the plunger until the air is removed.

*NOTE* It takes a lot of time for air to move through this oil. Be patient with the bubbles. Make sure the big ones come up and out.

10) Press syringe over needle post and firmly push down, but not too hard as to break it.

11) Pull up on the plunger. You should see a bubble come up into the syringe, you are creating a vacuum in the gauge. It will take a LONG time for that bubble to reach the top, but be patient. It is important that it does. Make sure you maintain downward pressure.

12) Slowly release the plunger and let the oil into the gauge, while holding pressure still.

13) Let it sit for a few minutes, and repeat the procedure a few times.

14) Put cluster, AS IS!, back into truck. Push it back so that it connects.

15) Turn key forward to "ON". Put fuel needle back on in the position it was in in your picture. Turn key off.

16) Reattach clear piece, then replace the 4 screws.

17) Reinstall dash bezel and plug everything back in.

You are done! The first time you have the key on it may bounce and vibrate a little, but as the oil coats everything it should dampen it a LOT. Mine was terribly bouncy and looked blurry it was vibrating so fast, now it looks just like any of my other gauges.

Will this work on the oil pressure gauge? Mine bounces/ is erratic sometimes but not continuous