- Oct 21, 2010
- Reaction score
- Strong Island, NY
From what I gather making hose with the correct crimp tool is an streamlined process. The Job who I choose to employ me actually use to make their own hoses. Corp/New Management said it takes up too much space and chuck it. Rather use it for inventory and keep hoses in stock LOL. Now we pay a shop to make our hoses and they are using the equipment we "threw out" to make our lines LMAOMaking hydraulic hoses was my job at The Bus Plant for about a year. Best I can figure, I made about 20,000 hoses, more-or-less. Most of them fabric braid over steel-reinforced rubber, (Aeroquip FC300 and Aeroquip FC350) but plenty of single- (Aeroquip 2807) and double-steel-braid (Aeroquip 2808) hoses over Teflon (PTFE) liners like your brake hoses.
Replacing metal tubing brake plumbing with "steel braided" hose is insane.
Metal tubing weighs less, costs less, has a longer service life, is more resistant to road debris, and is less-likely to be damaged by failure-to-properly-secure.
What happens when those filters get damaged by contact with the ground? Doesn't look like they're protected by being above the frame-rail aside from a thin-steel guard attached to the frame.
According to my '97 C/K service manual, they're 3/4 to 1 inch smaller in diameter than the JF9 C3500HD rear rotors, and probably not as wide, either. JF9 rotors = 13.58 diameter, 1.435 thick.
You haven't said which calipers you're using, but the web site brags-up their "ElDorado" calipers which are puny junk for an application like this. The JF9 rear discs use Bendix single-piston calipers, but the service manual doesn't specify how big the piston is.
1. Anti-seize is an improper "lubricant" for drum brake adjusters. The metal powder in anti-seize is abrasive. No wonder you had problems with them.
2. How are the bleeder screws on wheel cylinders any more prone to corrosion than bleeder screws on calipers?
No idea how that fits a non-C3500HD truck. May have been a nightmare. Probably easier to get a disc-swap or an axle-swap from a newer-generation 3500. I don't know how easy it would be to install, but at least the caliper would be supported properly instead of those damned flat-brackets; and the calipers and rotors would have been sized properly for the vehicle.
I understand the cost aspect, but it is still cheaper than a truck payment, looks cool and I think would last longer. Heck if I'm not in the mood to make a line, I can bring it to a place ands have them replicate it for me.
Air Dog Fuel System...Great question...if you look at every other diesel truck that was modded before mine. No one has that issue...BUT I ADMIT when I see a diesel with their filters hanging low It bothers me. I'm a retard and I like clean look under the frame. I think the air dog sticking out is a "flex" like stickers. My truck is lowered 2" and I plan on going more low so I did tuck it up. You can look at my truck from the side, front and rear and would never know I had an Air Dog until I turn the key on and hear them kick on. Mandingo from the factory was set up haul / camper (there is a sticker inside the glove box). Also being a K Series truck it is beefed up suspension wise. I lowered my truck 2" then I negated it when I scored a set of 19.5's off an old UPS truck HD model. I went from 215/85/16's to 225/70/19.5
Again my truck is K Series so Lowering it has its limitations...Mandingo is one of my forever trucks/work truck. I'm vertically challenged if you couldn't tell in the video and I prefer all my vehicles lowered for multiple reasons. That is my goal this summer...the only way for me to lower the rear is remove leafs to the sweet spot than move to the front and adjust torsion bars.
I'm going to see if I can attach multiple photos so you can get better idea of the whole truck.
I resorted to Antiseize b/c the Purple Brake Lube in the same brush bottle like Antiseize failed to work as well.
If the bleeders snap on the caliper the bleeders are located in a spot where I can choose to work them out and replace them. If I choose to be lazy I can just pop off the tires and the caliper vs pulling the axle and other components. Bleeder is hidden away...cant be taken out. Have to remove the wheel cylinder and that is a chore in itself.
Again my plan is to go lower...So an HD rear appeals to me if I want to go with a different rim and tire set up and keep my rears tucked vs getting extended fenders. Thats why I had no issue committing funds to swap it in.
Sidenote: I pull my spikes off in the colder months to prevent them from breaking as the company who made them discontinued them b/c people were complaining of them melting even though I NEVER had an issue.