How involved is removing a shift kit?

someotherguy

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RE accumulator - could be broken spring or incorrect spring, broken or leaking accumulator piston.

Could also be throttle valve cable adjusted incorrectly. Proceed with caution here as adjusting it incorrectly the other direction can result in line pressure too low which is even worse than too high.

Richard
 

Erik the Awful

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Proceed with caution here as adjusting it incorrectly the other direction can result in line pressure too low which is even worse than too high.
My 1-2 shift was hammering. I loosened the TV cable and burned up the transmission. The 1-2 accumulator was hanging up. If your 1-2 shift is harsh, assess your 2-3 shift before blaming the TV cable.
 

Knuckle Dragger

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IIRC the Transgo shift kit has you drill out the separator plate in a couple of locations. The bigger the hole the harder the 1-2 shift. I decided I wanted the hardest shift and experienced exactly what you are talking about. Transgo tech support walked me through reversing the modification and it worked well after that. Like others have said since you don't know what's been done to the transmission you're likely better off taking it to a shop instead of guessing what it might be based on "this one time" replies on the internet.
 

someotherguy

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Like others have said since you don't know what's been done to the transmission you're likely better off taking it to a shop instead of guessing what it might be based on "this one time" replies on the internet.
LOL.. while you're not wrong, the alleged "this one time" scenarios are actually common occurrences with these transmissions. The accumulator situation of course extends past 700R4/4L60 and into 4L60E/4L65E as well.

Richard
 

stutaeng

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Yeah, OP really needs to know what shift kit was installed. I'm wrapping up a 4L80e rebuild and I'm keeping all my hard parts from the master rebuild kit that got substituted as per the Transgo HD-2 kit. I'm a bit concerned the shifting would be too aggressive from the beginning, but the Transgo is so popular, that's what I went with since I didn't know better. The smooth shifting of the 80e is one of the reasons I swapped it over the 60e.

No need for any kind of savage shifting on a stock engine/truck, which is what I'm running: my opinion. In retrospect, I think I would have just skipped the Transgo HD-2 kit, and only done the standard valve work (boost valve and actuator feed limit valve.)

Unfortunately, I'm a DIY guy, so I'm learning as I go. But definitely takes time and effort to learn all the details of these transmissions.

Here's the instructions from Transgo for the 4L60 (700R4), in case that's what OP has: https://res.cloudinary.com/transgo/wbiss/rk/70023.pdf

Good luck.
 
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GMTMark

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As said above the best thing to do is take it to a reputable shop. There are so many things that cause a harsh 1-2 shift and it’s too easy to mess up by trying to do it yourself. Problem is that you didn’t do the build so you can’t go to any known place in the unit to change it.
 

thegawd

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OP:
Take it to a shop.
There is a lot of misinformation in this thread.

such as?.... hell if it came from me maybe as Iv only read a lot about the 4L60E. most of the guys who have responded have actually built transmissions.

I know I have a corvette servo in my Burbs stage 3 HD 4L60E but it is not harsh at all, not even a little bit. the shifts are quick but smooth. the Burb was also dyno tuned as a part of the deal, so maybe that's the difference.
 

Steve A

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Probably the first thing to do is a little research. Educate yourself on the 4L60 series of transmissions. Get a manual with all the updates or go to YouTube and watch the video series from Transmission Bench. Good info and Jimmy walks you through a full rebuild, or you can buy the whole series on a usb memory stick. If you do it yourself then you save some coin but if you decide not to then at least you're better armed when you go to a transmission shop. If you decide to do it yourself, most all the parts you might need are probably available through Rock Auto (discount code available in this forum) or your local parts store (check for a transmission parts supply house nearby). At a minimum I would replace the separator plate in the valve body (does away with drilled out holes and any wear on holes where the checkballs might be wearing through or embedded). It's not black magic and once you've done it you're no longer at the mercy of a transmission repair shop.
 

351FUN

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Yeah unfortunately it was done two owners ago. I'm probably gonna just try to find a decent shop around here and have them look at it.
 
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