Hey I need some advice.

[Jglew82]

You might want to get a grease pencil or white out/marker/etc and mark the distributor body below the cap where the number 1 plug terminal is. Then when you remove the cap to check, you have your mark on the distributor body and can see exactly how far off you are with your rotor.

 

[Diptenkrom]

you do not have to pull the whole power steering bracket to get to valve cover, just 3 bolts and a nut removed, and loosen another bolt and pull it forward enough to clear. however. as i said before, and many others have as well. sound like you're 180 out. if so, just pull dizzy, rotate the motor around once, and reinsert the dizzy. you can't be 180 off both ways. if it is still weird, then time for a compression check.

or you have the housing rotated more than ~15* off - make sure it is in the proper oreintation.

 

[JohnR]

With #1 plug out, insert a piece of tight fitting hose. Blow on the other end of the hose. You will feel pressure if #1 is firing.
I took an old cap and cut holes in the top to see the arc from the rotor to the plug terminal. Once the engine is running (follow the videos) just rotate the dist enough to align the rotor with plug terminals.

 

[Mattyhewson]

you do not have to pull the whole power steering bracket to get to valve cover, just 3 bolts and a nut removed, and loosen another bolt and pull it forward enough to clear. however. as i said before, and many others have as well. sound like you're 180 out. if so, just pull dizzy, rotate the motor around once, and reinsert the dizzy. you can't be 180 off both ways. if it is still weird, then time for a compression check.

or you have the housing rotated more than ~15* off - make sure it is in the proper oreintation.

Um sure....

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[east302]

That’s how I did mine as well. It can be shifted forward just enough for the valve cover to come off.

This guy sort of shows the bolt locations, there’s one at the bottom (or maybe two?) down near the PS pulley that aren’t obvious at first and can prevent the bracket from shifting. Also the one on the bracket that attaches behind the pump.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[Mattyhewson]

That’s how I did mine as well. It can be shifted forward just enough for the valve cover to come off.

This guy sort of shows the bolt locations, there’s one at the bottom (or maybe two?) down near the PS pulley that aren’t obvious at first and can prevent the bracket from shifting. Also the one on the bracket that attaches behind the pump.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

There is actually 3 bolts down there. 1 is behind the power steering pulley and the other two are visible. It was a pain removing other power steering pulley and then installing it back in. I am trying to avoid that whole situation again if possible.

 

[mariodave]

I wouldn't take anything apart. Just take out #1 spark plug and have someone bump the starter with your finger on the plug hole, you will know when its on the compression stroke, then line up the timing mark and install distributor as others have explained.

 

[dryslk]

I know this is obvious but have U checked UR firing order on the Dist just a thought Also U can turn the engine over on the crank dampner with a J bar its easier with the Plugs Out just Some thoughts

 

[Diptenkrom]

dont have to remove the pulley at all, just undo the 2 bolts near the top, one nut, and the one bolt below and to the left of the pulley (if looking at from the front) and there is a bolt on the backside that is in a slotted hole, just loosen it, and the whole thing will pull forward enough to get VC off - I have done this twice now, as i have done 2 Intake mani gasket sets, ( the first manifold was too pitted to seal, so i had to do again)

 

[Mattyhewson]

So good news I got my truck running! I did the whole thing of finding TDC and make sure it it blowing air out of #1 cylinder but I decided to remove all the spark plugs and wires to turn the motor more freely and some how manged to button up everything. A friend said to check for spark. So I checked for spark by turning the rotor back and forth with the key in the run position like he said to do. I heard acouple sparks happen. I then decide to crack her over. She cracked over the first time and she wanted to start the first time but didn't go. I tried it the second time and away she went. Wahoo! But she ran really rough and was running really rich. Ran codes on it and came up with a maf sensor issue and a crack position sensor error. Called up some my brother who tinkers on rigs aswell and he said to disconnect the battery and and drain the system and the codes should go away. Did so and the maf sensor code went away but the crack position error still came up. I decided to go ahead and try to fine tune the timing by using an OBD2 reader and went to turn the rotor both ways and was getting zapped. Turns out I got ahead of myself putting all back together and didn't attach 2 tho 8 spark plug wires. Fixed that she ran a lot smoother, still rough but a lot smother. Next I need to figure out why my crack position sensor is throwing a code. Hopefully an easy fix.