Hey I need some advice.

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Jglew82

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No problem, just when reading what you posted, its confusing. Simply put, both intake and exhaust valves will be closed on #1 cylinder @ TDC on the compression stroke. There is no need to look at any other valves. I look at the fly wheel and use the timing cover mark to line up the grove on the fly wheel. I use my thumb over #1 cylinder after removing the spark plug. I get my wife to bump spin the engine over untill I feel the pressure from the cylinder pushing past my thumb and watching for the groved line in the fly wheel to line up with the timing chain cover. Thats what I do. We all have our way of doing things.
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Yep, your way is also correct. Again, I was just giving him other methodologies to confirm what he is looking at, not trying to say my way was the only one. It sounded like he was fairly green on these, so any knowledge we can share would be helpful.

And to you both, forgive me; I'm dyslexic and not exaclty an ace typist so I apologize for any confusion. I tend to get excited when I can impart some of my own experience and sometimes my brain overruns my keyboard.
 

kennythewelder

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Yep, your way is also correct. Again, I was just giving him other methodologies to confirm what he is looking at, not trying to say my way was the only one. It sounded like he was fairly green on these, so any knowledge we can share would be helpful.

And to you both, forgive me; I'm dyslexic and not exaclty an ace typist so I apologize for any confusion. I tend to get excited when I can impart some of my own experience and sometimes my brain overruns my keyboard.
Like I said, no problem. Correct info is always a good thing.
 

kennythewelder

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What do you mean?
Its Ill good, He was replying to me. If you follow what was posted, and pull your drivers valve cover, then spin the engine and line up the marks like I posted , with both intake and exhaust valves both closed ( so the rocker arms are not pishing on ether valve), you will be on TDC compression stroke. At this point, when you stab the distributor and it is all the way down on the intake the rotor needs to be pointing at #1 spark plug wire. Look close at these pics, they should help. The distributor I am holding, is pointing to #1 and where it needs to be after it is seated all the way down on the intake. As it goes down, the shaft turns, so you have to allow for this as you stab it. Only after the distributor is all the way down on the intake will the rotor be in the correct place.
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kennythewelder

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Oh, and you will need to have the timing set using a scan tool that can read the cam dwell, or the cam sensor. There is no other way to set the timing on these engines. From what you have descrived, you distributor is not stabbed correctly.
 

Mattyhewson

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That's what I've been trying to do.but I haven't done the valve cover one yet. Right now the weather sucks so I won't be able to do it tonight. Snow and wind at 32° kind of discourages me to go out there. I'll try it when it calms down and try removing the valve gasket and get it to TDC.
 

Mattyhewson

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Oh, and you will need to have the timing set using a scan tool that can read the cam dwell, or the cam sensor. There is no other way to set the timing on these engines. From what you have descrived, you distributor is not stabbed correctly.

Well I have a scan tool (OBD2) to time it. I'll need to have the truck running for that tho. Just trying to get it running is my struggle bus!
 

Mattyhewson

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But when I first tried starting it it was backfiring both ways and making terrible noises. I retried to stab the distributor in after making sure that #1 piston was at the top (checking with a screwdriver) aiming the distributor at it and still nothing. Did that 5-6 times and still can't seem to get it right. It will sometimes even relief gasses out the intake manifold. Which I don't think that's very healthy for the motor.
 

Jglew82

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Kenny is spot on (and has pictures!). I’ll bet you are just 180 out. Let us know what you find once you pull a valve cover.
 
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