Help! No crank no start.

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JeezLouiseGMC

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I have a 1999 k1500 that is having a weird electrical problem. This week it started to lose power suddenly, but would turn right back on while driving, just just a moment ago I went to start the truck and it had no power, except for a spastics on and off, abd an odd clicking in the dash.. help my first thought is a loose ground but I have no clue
 

JeezLouiseGMC

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Well progress is made but not much.. I found out that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery reset the system allowing me to get power back in the cab. I was even able to start the truck, run it and pull out of the driveway before I lost power again. Another time after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery , I lost all power to the cabin after I turned the key to start.. any help is appreciated. It is worth mentioning that I have bypassed the passkey and I have been rolling with it for the past few months.. finally does anyone know what would melt the positive battery terminal like this? I discovered it after checking for corroded battery terminals.. and help is appreciated guys.

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alpinecrick

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When the key is turned to start and everything goes dead the first culprit I look for is bad connection at the positive battery terminal. Or at the solenoid. The melting I see at the terminal makes me suspect it was shorted to ground long enough to start melting things. I'm wondering if the terminal is now shorting out inside the battery.

It's uncommon in more modern vehicles, but I have seen the solenoid ground out in square body trucks in the past.

Wish I had a more definitive answer for you.
 

JeezLouiseGMC

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When the key is turned to start and everything goes dead the first culprit I look for is bad connection at the positive battery terminal. Or at the solenoid. The melting I see at the terminal makes me suspect it was shorted to ground long enough to start melting things. I'm wondering if the terminal is now shorting out inside the battery.

It's uncommon in more modern vehicles, but I have seen the solenoid ground out in square body trucks in the past.

Wish I had a more definitive answer for you.

I checked the positive terminal and it was corroded, but the problem remained, I may need to just see if I can swap out the battery since it is still under warranty. Also how world I check if the solenoid is grounded out?



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alpinecrick

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I'm sure there is a way to check the solenoid while in the truck, but I can't think of it at the moment....

Pulling the starter and solenoid, and testing it at the parts store is another option.

Clicking under the dash generally means not a good connection to the solenoid.

But if the engine is shutting off randomly, I'm wondering if the alternator is charging when/if the battery is losing connection.

I'd try and get the battery warrantied from Walmart. I've had very good experiences with the Walmart Maxx batteries--all my trucks have them currently.
 

JeezLouiseGMC

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I'm sure there is a way to check the solenoid while in the truck, but I can't think of it at the moment....

Pulling the starter and solenoid, and testing it at the parts store is another option.

Clicking under the dash generally means not a good connection to the solenoid.

But if the engine is shutting off randomly, I'm wondering if the alternator is charging when/if the battery is losing connection.

I'd try and get the battery warrantied from Walmart. I've had very good experiences with the Walmart Maxx batteries--all my trucks have them currently.

I will see if when it runs it throws 14v.. i have not had good luck with Walmart batteries honestly, in fact I often refer to them as neverstarts on my mowers lol, however i definitely wanna get it warranties to verify that isn’t the problem..
I checked all the cables coming from the battery, aside from some corrosion in on the positive terminal I found nothing wrong on any of the cables.. honestly this issue has given me a lot of head scratching.. wish me luck


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JeezLouiseGMC

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I think I found the the problem today.. the battery connector positive side was so corroded it was acting as a resistor. i found it was only allowing less than a volt to the fuse block. i replaced the lug and it seems to be good, no im just fighting the passkey system again.. this close to buying a tuned pcm just to cut out passkey
 
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