Heater Mode Door issue/questions

[upper_tanker]

I was out plowing in my 2000 K2500, it was like plowing fresh concrete. It was a rough night with plenty of jolting/jerking since it was like plowing fresh concrete. Around 8 hours in I noticed my little toesies were getting cold but I could hear the blower motor screaming. I was getting like 5% flow out of defrost/vents/floor on high. I looked down at the linkage above and to the right of the gas pedal and seen this exact thing, the linkage was not attached to this and this was loose/floppy.

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I guess my questions are:

1. I'm guessing this is the mode door since I'm not getting any flow out of any position?
2. I'm also guessing this needs to have the dash removed for this?
3. If this IS the mode door, RockAuto has two different listings. Guessing it's the middle one since I need the rod?

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I have been trying to Google this but it makes it really confusing when it seems as if a ton of people just refer to the Mode Door as "Blend Door." We are supposed to get another snow this Friday and I would like to fix or get this fixed by then so I can at least have defrost.

TIA

 

[east302]

The one on the left (that you circled) is the defrost door. The one on the right is 155520. On the bottom is 155737 - the actuator attaches to it and the lever arm attaches to the second arm on the damper. The bottom one diverts air to the floor.

The damper in the photo is still attached to the silver piece on the outside. The other end is just out of the hole on the opposite side. If your damper is like this, you can try to (blindly) get it back into that hole. I circled it in green below. Yes, the dash would have to come out to get full access to the dampers.

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[bluex]

I just fixed mine today, yes the dash has to come out. If you want new stuff there are some distributor assemblies out there still, mostly on ebay.

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This lower door that you can see if you take off the floor vent an the actiuator is attached directly too is 52471363.

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While looking at mine today I got the door that fell out back in, but all the rubber edges were gone which is what let it slide out in the first place. So you might be able to get it back in but who knows how long it will stay.

 

[upper_tanker]

The one on the left (that you circled) is the defrost door. The one on the right is 155520. On the bottom is 155737 - the actuator attaches to it and the lever arm attaches to the second arm on the damper. The bottom one diverts air to the floor.

The damper in the photo is still attached to the silver piece on the outside. The other end is just out of the hole on the opposite side. If your damper is like this, you can try to (blindly) get it back into that hole. I circled it in green below. Yes, the dash would have to come out to get full access to the dampers.

I just fixed mine today, yes the dash has to come out. If you want new stuff there are some distributor assemblies out there still, mostly on ebay.


This lower door that you can see if you take off the floor vent an the actiuator is attached directly too is 52471363.

While looking at mine today I got the door that fell out back in, but all the rubber edges were gone which is what let it slide out in the first place. So you might be able to get it back in but who knows how long it will stay.

Thank you both a ton for this info. I was actually asking about replacing the mode door due to the common air coming out of every vent issue on a Facebook group last year but got zero replies.

I did actually get it back into the hole when I was out in the parking lot but it came right back out.

Bluex, is there a reason to replace the entire assembly if mine isn't broken? Genuinely curious, I'm all for the "replace it while you're there" thing if there are reasons for replacement other than visual.

Also, are there any other parts I should replace "while I'm there" and the dash is out?

I have access to Mitchel Prodemand so I may look on there and see if I think I can do this without pulling my hair out.

 

[bluex]

I'll have to take a close look at my old one an see how the doors come out with the levers on them. I guess there's no real reason to, when I was looking for parts I found that instead of the individual doors so I just grabbed it. The seals are going to be hard an brittle to so I'd do all 3 doors if your there to get good flow back. The bottom of my box was full of seal pieces.

I did a new evaporater and heater core while everything was apart. Probably could have left the heater alone, looked like someone replaced it before. My evaporater was oe though an was really nasty. You could also replace the recirculation door actuator as it's a pia to get to with the box installed. I generally leave the top screw out if that one to lol. Blower motor resistors an relay can be a pain to reach but don't usually go bad to often. The resistor is pretty cheap though. I mean it all just depends on where you want to stop. I was going to wholesale change every part on mine but I had to dial it back as the truck has other issues an I don't have an unlimited budget.

It's not a hard job just time consuming, you can do it in a day for sure. I'd recommend a helper for taking the dash out an putting it back if you have a decent dash. The rest you can do on your own.

This is good video for the dash removal portion. I also pulled the seat an column for more room.

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[east302]

Bluex, is there a reason to replace the entire assembly if mine isn't broken? Genuinely curious, I'm all for the "replace it while you're there" thing if there are reasons for replacement other than visual.

I’ve also purchased that air box assembly mentioned above. It’s a nice piece, you’d then only have to buy the lower damper for the floor air.

The two damper shafts have a press fit “link” on the ends that the actuator connects to. In my case, I broke the plastic box trying to get the little links off of the damper shafts.

 

[upper_tanker]

I honestly can't thank you all enough for your input on this. Below is what I'm ordering. Am I missing anything?

Question on the heater core though. I've never done one or even seen it back there with no dash. What's the best way to drain it enough where it doesn't leak all over the place? Or do I just hold a bucket under the hoses when I remove them?

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[bluex]

You'll need some closed cell foam to add back to the top of the distributor. Apparently it doesn't come with any like everything else, at least mine didn't.

That's everything I replaced as well so unless you know you have a bad actuator or resistor that should be all you need.

 

[upper_tanker]

You'll need some closed cell foam to add back to the top of the distributor. Apparently it doesn't come with any like everything else, at least mine didn't.

That's everything I replaced as well so unless you know you have a bad actuator or resistor that should be all you need.

Thank you! I see Amazon had a bunch of different listings. Any idea how thick, wide, and long I should get?

 

[east302]

Just pull the heater hoses at the firewall, that’ll get the bulk of it out.

The foam that I used was 1” thick which looked to be the same thickness as the old crumbly stuff that was on it. I just bought a rectangle of it, traced the old pattern onto it, cut out the holes and used spray adhesive to stick it back on.

You should replace the accumulator since you’ll have this opened up. The condenser-evaporator hose fitting seized on one of my trucks but not the other two, so that’s something to keep in mind. You might give it a “test turn” at the evaporator to see if it will budge and order accordingly. Really, though, I’d just replace it.

I’ll add that you’ll need to try to reuse the old gasket around the evaporator or create some new. Also transfer the metal screen behind it.

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