heads and a roller cam

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ericg75

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Friday I dropped my block off to start getting prepped. It is a 350 2 bolt with no provisions for the spider plate. I want to run a roller cam, and upgrade the heads. I think I may keep the stock intake just to keep cost reasonable. I'm looking to get around 300 crank horsepower from the build. Does anyone have recommendations for a good roller cam and head set up that would get me to my goal? I'm not totally against vortec heads, but I think there are probably better ways to go. Just FYI, I'm keeping the TBI setup and it's currently at SPR performance getting their complete overhaul and boring service.
 

Erik the Awful

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I think Vortecs are fine if you're not looking for rpm and you can get them cheap - like under $100 each. If you're looking for any kind of performance or can't find heads cheap, there are plenty of cheap aluminum heads that you can get for under $1200 a pair, assembled.

For the cam, call your favorite cam company and tell them what you're building and what your purpose is. Asking us internet randos is a recipe for heartache.
 

Schurkey

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Considering the cost of "retrofit" roller lifters, I'd have gotten a newer, OEM roller-block as a candidate for the machine work. You could buy a Vortec short-block for less than the cost of the retrofit lifters, and you'd have a better cam-thrust system, too. Choose the RIGHT Vortec short-block, and you get 4-bolt mains and maybe the better powdered-metal rods also. Then your only issue is the coolant bypass system; and GMT400s that don't have rear heat can use the heater core as a bypass because there's no heater control valve. Use the timing cover, water pump, damper, and accessories from the TBI engine. Easy.

Maybe it's not too late to change. Have they started working your block yet?

If you're keeping the TBI, it'd be hard to beat the Summit TBI aluminum heads. You'd avoid a handful of problems when using Vortecs--EGR, accessory struts, various brackets that bolt to the intake manifold, intake manifold bolt pattern, intake manifold heating for cold- or cool-weather use, etc.
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-162108
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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If you're keeping the TBI, it'd be hard to beat the Summit TBI aluminum heads. You'd avoid a handful of problems when using Vortecs--EGR, accessory struts, various brackets that bolt to the intake manifold, intake manifold bolt pattern, intake manifold heating for cold- or cool-weather use, etc.
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-162108
X2 on these heads plus, they flow better than Vortec heads.
 

ericg75

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Thanks for the recommendations. Those heads look to be on back order, I'll have to see if some place else carries them. As far as a cam supplier, anyone have a good recommendation that won't break the bank?
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Those heads look to be on back order, I'll have to see if some place else carries them
Those heads are normally on back order, when I ordered mine ~4 years ago (or so) they were too. These heads are made by Trick Flow (owned by Summit Racing) and since they don't sell a lot of TBI stuff any more, they build up a demand and make a run of them. Mine were shipped when they said they would, for $300 less than now.

As far as a cam supplier, anyone have a good recommendation that won't break the bank?
You have to ask yourself, do you want cheap or good? Then go from there. I'm in the middle of upgrading mine to roller cam and went with Comp Cams (now owned by Edelbrock). They were helpful in tech support and, if I'm gonna buy one brand cam, I'm gonna buy their lifters, springs, locators, keepers, push rods, etc. Right now I'm at over $2,000 just on the cam and supporting equipment.

Some light reading...
www.gmt400.com/threads/my-flat-tappet-cam-wiped-out-so-i-decided-to-go-roller.60167/

I'm keeping the TBI setup and it's currently at SPR performance getting their complete overhaul and boring service.
I got my 46mm from him too. I went with an 18 LB spring running at 20 PSI with a VPR. I bored out my Edelbrock Performer 3704 to 48mm for it too.

Have you thought about getting the EBL FLash-II and a WBO2 sensor?
www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_Flash.php




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Erik the Awful

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I went with Lunati for my cam, but I think they got bought out by someone else recently. I've also run a Comp Cam and a Howard's cam and both were good

If you've decided on a roller cam, shop for what gives you the power or fuel economy you want. If you go flat tappet, quality control is your number one consideration. I've heard that Comp has had problems, but I couldn't tell you what companies don't.
 

ericg75

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Those heads are normally on back order, when I ordered mine ~4 years ago (or so) they were too. These heads are made by Trick Flow (owned by Summit Racing) and since they don't sell a lot of TBI stuff any more, they build up a demand and make a run of them. Mine were shipped when they said they would, for $300 less than now.


You have to ask yourself, do you want cheap or good? Then go from there. I'm in the middle of upgrading mine to roller cam and went with Comp Cams (now owned by Edelbrock). They were helpful in tech support and, if I'm gonna buy one brand cam, I'm gonna buy their lifters, springs, locators, keepers, push rods, etc. Right now I'm at over $2,000 just on the cam and supporting equipment.

Some light reading...
www.gmt400.com/threads/my-flat-tappet-cam-wiped-out-so-i-decided-to-go-roller.60167/


I got my 46mm from him too. I went with an 18 LB spring running at 20 PSI with a VPR. I bored out my Edelbrock Performer 3704 to 48mm for it too.

Have you thought about getting the EBL FLash-II and a WBO2 sensor?
www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_Flash.php




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I had not consider that option. I was figuring on getting a chip burned to start with to get the truck running and driving and then eventually gathering data on a chassis dyno to see what tweaks could/should be made. I'll do some reading. And thanks for all the advice.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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What make and model plugs are you running in those heads and what is the gap?
Accel 416S "shorties" @0.035". They help but I still had to wrap the headers and use boots on the wires. Keep in mind whatever plugs you use in an aluminum head, you need long reach and gaskets instead of taper seat.

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