Headliner trim

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tm400

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Just an update to have a conclusion to the story. I was able to buy the broken trim piece from someone on marketplace so it all worked out. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and help.
 

Onizukachan

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@Stockedup94
If it’s a clean break, you can try using superglue from the back side of the crack (capillary action) to reglue , then very thin tissue paper (not gift tissue but literally single layer of kleenex) on the back side to soak up the excess. do 2-3 layers more of ever increasing size on top to add reinforcement . I’ve reattached mounting tabs, retaining pins, end stops etc on hard to find/obsolete/overly expensive parts on bmws (like the $400 ashtray lid on the e83 my wife owned, the NLA rear cargo hatch insert in the e46 wagon etc.) I’ve even been able to reuse and release those repaired mounting tabs with out them breaking.

if it doesn’t work, you are not in any worse shape than you are now?
 

Stockedup94

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@Stockedup94
If it’s a clean break, you can try using superglue from the back side of the crack (capillary action) to reglue , then very thin tissue paper (not gift tissue but literally single layer of kleenex) on the back side to soak up the excess. do 2-3 layers more of ever increasing size on top to add reinforcement . I’ve reattached mounting tabs, retaining pins, end stops etc on hard to find/obsolete/overly expensive parts on bmws (like the $400 ashtray lid on the e83 my wife owned, the NLA rear cargo hatch insert in the e46 wagon etc.) I’ve even been able to reuse and release those repaired mounting tabs with out them breaking.

if it doesn’t work, you are not in any worse shape than you are now?
I can’t seem to get the plastic out the clips that broke off. Any suggestions?
 

Stockedup94

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Did my best. Great idea btw. Hopefully it hold. Should I fiberglass pieces that aren’t clean breaks?



@Stockedup94
If it’s a clean break, you can try using superglue from the back side of the crack (capillary action) to reglue , then very thin tissue paper (not gift tissue but literally single layer of kleenex) on the back side to soak up the excess. do 2-3 layers more of ever increasing size on top to add reinforcement . I’ve reattached mounting tabs, retaining pins, end stops etc on hard to find/obsolete/overly expensive parts on bmws (like the $400 ashtray lid on the e83 my wife owned, the NLA rear cargo hatch insert in the e46 wagon etc.) I’ve even been able to reuse and release those repaired mounting tabs with out them breaking.

if it doesn’t work, you are not in any worse shape than you are now?
 

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Onizukachan

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Fiberglass is too thick imo ad doesn’t absorb the cyano like paper does. I’ve used this method on trims before. :)

i literally strip the two layers of Kleenex/tp apart and go as thin as I can for each layer over the area of the break.


on not clean breaks you’d use a stronger more filling glue like 5 min epoxy sparingly then reinforce as above.
cyano is strongest when used in ultra thin layers, amd the paper achieves that, plus is kind of like using a composite to reinforce it.
 

modernbeat

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If the breaks aren't clean you can make a slurry of baking soda and super glue to act as a filler.

You can do this as a backing for the clean cracks also. It's stronger than superglue by itself.
 
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