Has anyone 'tucked' the spare tire carrier?

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BuildStuff

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Lol, you broke the forum. On a separate note, I think I nailed it, well about 95% nailed it, which really means good enough. If I stand 11 feet back, stoop over so my eyes are at about 36 inches off the ground, I start to get a glimpse of the tire. Before I didn't have to be that far back and not stoop over that much before I could see it, as a bonus, I have a sway bar back there that is black as well as the obvious rear end that is also black, this in turn 'hides' the black spare tire, more like deflects the vision of it a little bit as said spare tire doesn't hang into either of these now to where it distorts the shape of either the sway bar or rear end, so what that does is trick the eye into thinking it is more 'mechanical stuff' down there and not so much a tire hanging down. In retrospect, I would have to say I would do this again if one is into aesthetics.

I see this topic has some views, so I want to give a QOL ( herein means Quality of Life ) modification for those 'lurkers' (lol). I mentioned earlier I had done a fair amount of work to my tailgate (modification, not repair) when I got the truck the tailgate squeaked when I open/closed it, likely due to some rust and the hinge being metal to metal contact. After I had the tailgate painted, I inserted a 'wear surface' in between the male/female parts of the hinge. This is Super easy to do as the nature of the ease of removing/installing said tailgate requires a fair amount of 'slop' in the hinge, if it weren't there it might be harder to remove/install the tailgate, so what I did was find a thin, tough piece of plastic, some contact cement (maybe not the best choice of adhesive, but no issues as of yet), and cemented the plastic as a wear surface between the hinge parts. As far as the thickness of the plastic goes, I guessed, I ended up using the toughest plastic In had on hand, a Vitamin Water bottle, fit it into the right shape, cemented it in, a little bit of grease, poof, smooth as butter, literally zero noise. It doesn't take long to boot.
Edit: I forgot 2 items, first, that particular plastic thickness had no effect on removing or installing the tailgate, to me it is just as easy, but the trick to this is not having an 'edge' on the plastic for the hinge to catch on when installing, to aid this I used the bottom part of the plastic bottle, as the bottle isn't really a cylinder but conicalish at the bottom, kind of like the hinge on the truck, so in the end you just have to match the shape of the inside of the 'female' part of the hinge ( I'm calling it the tailgate part) to minimize the plastic interferring. If you do this, wire brush/sand all the rust out of the inside of the hinge parts, paint it with a good quality smooth paint, Let It Dry for a good long time, like a week or so, Then proceed with the mod, enjoy your noise free tailgate.
 
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454cid

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"YOU ARE THE ONLY ONE WHO CAN POST IN YOUR THREAD IN THIS SECTION!"
Lol! I dunno! I responded as if it was any other thread! Didn't even notice that caveat.
10,000+ posts = 'special priviledges'? Just a guess. Who knows? Weird.
But I do feel 'special' now! Lol!

I'm guessing it's been turned off. I always thought that feature was kinda dumb. Sure you don't want people junking up your build thread with off topic stuff, but it's the natural place for comments/suggestions/whatever about the build.

OP... I removed my spare. I've carried it in the bed for years. I've got a 4x4 that's always been a daily, Though..... part of that crap rusted up!
 

BuildStuff

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@454cid, I did think about in the bed at one point, but I use the bed quite a bit, I was worried it would become a pain in the long run, moving it around and such. I was a bit more fortunate in my situation though, I had installed a lowering kit so I had the bed off for that as well as some frame scraping/painting (not a show truck by any means), to aid in that process I removed the spare tire carrier to better scrape/paint the frame and carrier, then bolted it back in, subsequently it is very easy me for me to remove all the parts., if I remember it was installed from.the factory with gigantic rivets.
I should mention to anyone who wants to do these mods that busting the carrier loose from the frame with the bed still on is a big pain in the neck.
 

454cid

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@454cid, I did think about in the bed at one point, but I use the bed quite a bit, I was worried it would become a pain in the long run, moving it around and such.

I have actually used the spare to hold things down, or pin them in the corner. Other times it's kinda irritating.... it does collect leaves around it, and snow in the winter.

I was a bit more fortunate in my situation though, I had installed a lowering kit so I had the bed off for that as well as some frame scraping/painting (not a show truck by any means), to aid in that process I removed the spare tire carrier to better scrape/paint the frame and carrier, then bolted it back in, subsequently it is very easy me for me to remove all the parts., if I remember it was installed from.the factory with gigantic rivets.

Oh wow, you took out that whole crossmember? I just removed the winch and the two braces that keep the tire from wobbling, which aren't structural to the frame.
 

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I removed the crossmember and the two supports originally to scrape them, then paint them. I used some grade 8.8 bolts ( iirc) in place of the factory rivets when I reinstalled all the parts. At the time I didn't have a spare tire in there, so I wasn't aware how much of the tire was exposed until I went to put one in, quite a bit of time after I painted everything. So I had this nice smooth chrome non step bumper, but the tire was hanging down well past the feature bumper, well it's only a feature if you know GM didn't make a smooth non step bumper for Gmt400. Kind of ruined it for me after the hoops I went through ton get that bumper on there. So the crossmember now being bolted in was very easy to remove again, cut and box in for reinforcement, then re-install. The two support bars are attached to the main crossmember, except for 1 of the 4 bolts,, so they went back in with nearly no extra work. Everything that came out went back in, just in a slightly different configuration. The main crossmember for the tire is something like 3 to 3 1/2 inches thick, so there is some room to thin it out, raising it up towards the bottom of the bed, and if you can raise the crossmember you also raise the spare tire with it.
 
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454cid

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I removed the crossmember and the two supports originally to scrape them, then paint them. I used some grade 8.8 bolts ( iirc) in place of the factory rivets when I reinstalled all the parts. At the time I didn't have a spare tire in there, so I wasn't aware how much of the tire was exposed until I went to put one in, quite a bit of time after I painted everything. So I had this nice smooth chrome non step bumper, but the tire was hanging down well past the feature bumper, well it's only a feature if you know GM didn't make a smooth non step bumper for Gmt400. Kind of ruined it for me after the hoops I went through ton get that bumper on there. So the crossmember now being bolted in was very easy to remove again, cut and box in for reinforcement, then re-install. The two support bars are attached to the main crossmember, except for 1 of the 4 bolts,, so they went back in with nearly no extra work. Everything that came out went back in, just in a slightly different configuration. The main crossmember for the tire is something like 3 to 3 1/2 inches thick, so there is some room to thin it out, raising it up towards the bottom of the bed, and if you can raise the crossmember you also raise the spare tire with it.


It sounds like a real nice modification.... could we get some pictures of that bumper? I'd love to see that.

You might consider upgrading your bolts. Most automotive bolts are 10.9 if they're metric.
 

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Another image test. Wow, is Flickr this useless? Or am I this non techy, I can't get an image on here to save my life.https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1850358019&fileuploadsuccess=1

Well, I can't seem to find a way to get an image from Flickr to here, so I did a work around, but unfortunately it is through Steam, in the form of a link. The picture is a before shot of how low the spare tire was before I modified the carrier. You can get a glimpse of the bumper, I'll get a better overall shot of it. I'm fairly annoyed about not being able to simply put an image directly on here, but it is likely due to my tech ignorance.
 
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454cid

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That's pretty nice. What did you say that bumper is from? Is it modified?
 

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Thanks sewlow, I'll look into it further.
@454cid, the bumper is from a 2000 era Ford E-150. The modifications are the 4 capped carriage bolts as the Ford bumper doesn't use external bolts (could go another way, but I like the look), also where the top of the bumper wraps around the side of the bed needed a little trimming to match the profile of the truck, as the Van profile was different. Other than that, I used all the brackets from the Chevy truck, I propped the bumper up into position, measured and cut the Chevy brackets to bolt up to the Ford bumper, this is where those 4 carriage bolts go into, then welded a flat bracket onto the Chevy brackets coming straight off the frame, since the Ford bumper has flat brackets welded right to the bumper. The profile is slightly off, but it almost looks made for the truck, kind of strange and super lucky for me.
Also, the Ford Van has the liscence plate frenched into the door, so there are no provisions for a plate on the bumper. Getting the plate lights just right so as not to stick out too far from the bumper while lighting up said plate was kind of a pain, but it worked out.
The other modification needed to make it look 'right' (imo) was to install a roll pan behind the bumper, this gave me the body line you see just below the tailgate that wasn't originally there, as the old bumper filled that space previously, otherwise it would be a large empty space, since the original step bumpers go into that area, just under the tailgate, this usually covers that space. From there, there was still a slight gap between the bumper and that body line the roll pan gave me, I fit a thick plastic piece in there cut to the right shape, painted it white, bolted it to the roll pan. This last piece, the plastic part, is essentially a bumper filler piece, like the front bumper has.
 
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