Greetings from Michigan, 93 C1500

[Ryline]

Here is mine as I rebuilt it about 3 months ago. The second and 3ed pic is the open carrier. The last pic is the trutrac installed

That looks like a good project. What made you change your gearing to begin with?

 

[kennythewelder]

Well, I had 342s to start with. I go to car shows almost every weekend. At 250,000 + miles, and the rear end making grinding noises, I wanted to put a LSD carrier in the truck for a long time. I drive my truck every day, so once it was down, I didnt want to run into issues and have to wait on parts. I also wanted more power from a dead stop, and I knew a lower gear ratio would do this. I all most went with 410 gears, but after talking it over at the car shows, all of the guys I hang with there, They said no, put 373s. With those tires, and you having a 4L60E trans, that will be what you want. So thats what I ordered from summit racing. The gear set, rear end assembly kit, ( thats new bearings, seals, and a crush sleeve) and I also changed the axle shaft bearings and seals, and ordered a crush sleeve eliminator kit. When I took it apart, you can see in the pic I posted, where the bearing is lying next to the carrier, after I pulled it, where the bearing mount broke off of the carrier. I was tired of the 1wheel peel when taking off. The trutrac locks both wheel at a percent of slippage when 1 wheel slips, the other bites too. When turning, it acts like an open diff. It lets the outside tire turn faster than the inside tire. The truetrac can hold a good bit of HP ( like well over 500 HP) it is very low maintenance. It works off of helix gears not clutches. I am very happy with my choice. Its grate for the street. The total cost for me to rebuild my diff was about $1100. This was me doing all of the work my self. Then about 1-1/2 weeks later, I blew up the trans. That was another $2800, but a performance HD rebuild with corvette servos, and a 24 month- 24,000 mile warranty. 2 months latter, I blew it up again ( the trans) and they fixed it again, for free. They had the performance turned up to much. This time it is better, and should last.

 

[Frank Enstein]

You will find most of us just want to help. I always help when I can.



Always pull the fill plug BEFORE dropping the cover off. If it's stuck you can't refill it!

The fill plug is a round plug with a square recess in between the ribs on the passenger side of the housing unless it has been replaced before.

The drain plug comes out with a 3/8 drive extension (use one that you hate). You will likely need to beat it in with a hammer to make sure it's seated so it doesn't strip.

Dig as much crud out of the fill plug square center with a screwdriver you hate before trying to beat the hated extension in.

Remove the plug completely.

Start at the bottom of the cover and remove the bolts going back and forth.

Loosen but don't remove the top one for now.

There are usually things like brake line brackets and the like bolted onto the cover. GENTLY sneak them out of the way so the cover can be removed. You don't want to kill a brake line by accident.

Get a gasket scraper or putty knife that you hate (it will get covered in awful smelling icky old gear goop). Did I mention that it smells horrible? Especially when burnt.

Get a drain pan that you hate (sensing a pattern here?) for the old gear lube to pour into. Make it on the large side because it will come out from under the cover fairly quickly.

Gear lube has quite a bit of film strength so having the drain pan propped up close to the axle will prevent the wind from blowing gear goop all over the place.

Now take the putty knife or gasket scraper and gently work it into the gasket between the cover and the axle housing and gently and slowly pry the cover off a bit (1/4 inch or so is enough) and the gear goop will start coming out.

Let it drip for a while you try to get the stink of your hands and when it is mostly done dripping hold the cover on the axle and remove the last bolt. Then remove the cover by pulling it out slowly starting from the bottom. There shouldn't be much left in there.

Scrape the gasket off the axle housing until it is clean metal and do the same for the cover. Now is a great time to clean up and paint the cover and bolts.

While the paint is drying clean out as much debris and old gear lube as you can. Disposable gloves are highly recommended!

I like to use brake cleaner to spray out the axle housing so the insides can be inspected. I use break cleaner because it evaporates quickly and doesn't leave any residue.

There is a magnet in there that acts as a filter take that out and clean it thoroughly.

Now is when you count and divide the ring gear (big one) by the little one (pinion) to get you gear ratio. A magic marker or a paint pen that you ha.. Oh you get the idea, and mark every 10th tooth so you don't lose count can help.

Factory gears generally have the numbers stamped on the ring gear like 41/10, 41/11, or 41/12.
GM has a fetish for 41 tooth ring gears for some reason.

Put a new gasket on with gasket sealer if you want. I use Gasgacinch and I only glue it to the cover. Please no silicone. Silicone is used in place of a gasket or just in the corners when a gasket is used. It has it's place but it is very difficult to clean off compared to a gasket.

Get a funnel and some flexible copper or aluminum tubing about 6 feet long and hook it to a funnel. As long as it fits in the fill hole bigger is better.

Take off the right rear tire and put the tubing into the fill hole in the axle housing. You don't strictly NEED to remove the tire, but it can make filling the axle easier, and you wanted to inspect the brakes anyway right?

Tape the funnel to a step ladder or whatever is convenient. Make sure it is as high as the top of the bed or higher and pour the gear lube into that.

Gear lube pours S-L-O-W! Take your time so you don't spill any. Gear lube is rough to clean up.

Put a clean drip pan under the axle so when you over fill the axle (and you WILL over fill it) it won't make a terrible, stinky mess on the floor.

When you put the fill plug back in after filling it don't overtighten. It's not going to want to fall out. It's pipe thread and it will get snug very quickly.

I recommend PTFE liquid pipe thread sealer. I will not use Teflon tape on a car or truck because it tends to flake off and get into places it shouldn't be with disasterous results.

Getting gear lube (you will need a bit over 2 quarts) with the friction modifier for limited slip won't hurt anything if you don't have clutches (limited slip) in your rear end but it is important with a clutch type carrier.

When your friends come over ask them if they think the rear axle is o.k. to take the trip.

Honestly, the hardest thing is getting the plug out and filling the gear lube. But even they aren't bad at all.

The purpose of this is not to scare you and over complicate things, it's to make sure something unexpected doesn't blind-side you. This is supposed to be fun after all!

That being said, if you aren't comfortable with this project, have your racer friends do it for you.

Not everyone is good at everything. Personally, I won't shoot pearls or candies, and I'm painting my truck with rattle cans!

 

[Frank Enstein]

That looks like a good project. What made you change your gearing to begin with?

I'm interested in how the hood hinges are set up. I want to do something like that with my 69 Firebird. The roll cage precludes using stock hinges.

 

[df2x4]

Welcome!

Just to clarify a little on the gear oil conversation, NONE of the factory carriers that came in these trucks should get any kind of friction modifier or additive in the oil. Using them with a G80 locker will cause improper operation. If it's a factory carrier, you want GL5 80W-90 with no friction modifier or additive. I use this stuff in both of my '97s (which have G80s). ACDelco 10-4051.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q10F3S

 

[Ryline]

Well, I had 342s to start with. I go to car shows almost every weekend. At 250,000 + miles, and the rear end making grinding noises, I wanted to put a LSD carrier in the truck for a long time. I drive my truck every day, so once it was down, I didnt want to run into issues and have to wait on parts. I also wanted more power from a dead stop, and I knew a lower gear ratio would do this. I all most went with 410 gears, but after talking it over at the car shows, all of the guys I hang with there, They said no, put 373s. With those tires, and you having a 4L60E trans, that will be what you want. So thats what I ordered from summit racing. The gear set, rear end assembly kit, ( thats new bearings, seals, and a crush sleeve) and I also changed the axle shaft bearings and seals, and ordered a crush sleeve eliminator kit. When I took it apart, you can see in the pic I posted, where the bearing is lying next to the carrier, after I pulled it, where the bearing mount broke off of the carrier. I was tired of the 1wheel peel when taking off. The trutrac locks both wheel at a percent of slippage when 1 wheel slips, the other bites too. When turning, it acts like an open diff. It lets the outside tire turn faster than the inside tire. The truetrac can hold a good bit of HP ( like well over 500 HP) it is very low maintenance. It works off of helix gears not clutches. I am very happy with my choice. Its grate for the street. The total cost for me to rebuild my diff was about $1100. This was me doing all of the work my self. Then about 1-1/2 weeks later, I blew up the trans. That was another $2800, but a performance HD rebuild with corvette servos, and a 24 month- 24,000 mile warranty. 2 months latter, I blew it up again ( the trans) and they fixed it again, for free. They had the performance turned up to much. This time it is better, and should last.

That is awesome, I'm completely in the same mindset as your describing. Yes, i'm sick of the one wheel peel as well... The only difference is you seem like you show and race your truck is what I'm taking from talking with you. It'll always be a show truck for me, but I absolutely want to add as much performance as I can. But I feel more limited as I want to be able to drive it from the east coast to the west coast (as an example) through hot summers and freezing winters. I used to race both track and street an 87 Buick Regal T Type. So i'm looking at getting another one or a Grand National for racing. With my truck, the performance I want to add is purely for my enjoyment. I love the sound, stepping on the gas and really feeling it, and so on. I have never installed a set of gears so unfortunately I would have to look into having someone do that. I need to look up the process but im sure its not an easy job. Huge props to you and your gear & trans build. I would love to see your truck. Do you go to many car shows with other series trucks such as ours? Once I get this truck dialed back in I would like to find some groups with our series trucks and maybe do a yearly meetup/cruise somewhere throughout the states. That truetrac you installed, would it work good on my truck and the long cruising I do with it?

 

[Ryline]

You will find most of us just want to help. I always help when I can.



Always pull the fill plug BEFORE dropping the cover off. If it's stuck you can't refill it!

The fill plug is a round plug with a square recess in between the ribs on the passenger side of the housing unless it has been replaced before.

The drain plug comes out with a 3/8 drive extension (use one that you hate). You will likely need to beat it in with a hammer to make sure it's seated so it doesn't strip.

Dig as much crud out of the fill plug square center with a screwdriver you hate before trying to beat the hated extension in.

Remove the plug completely.

Start at the bottom of the cover and remove the bolts going back and forth.

Loosen but don't remove the top one for now.

There are usually things like brake line brackets and the like bolted onto the cover. GENTLY sneak them out of the way so the cover can be removed. You don't want to kill a brake line by accident.

Get a gasket scraper or putty knife that you hate (it will get covered in awful smelling icky old gear goop). Did I mention that it smells horrible? Especially when burnt.

Get a drain pan that you hate (sensing a pattern here?) for the old gear lube to pour into. Make it on the large side because it will come out from under the cover fairly quickly.

Gear lube has quite a bit of film strength so having the drain pan propped up close to the axle will prevent the wind from blowing gear goop all over the place.

Now take the putty knife or gasket scraper and gently work it into the gasket between the cover and the axle housing and gently and slowly pry the cover off a bit (1/4 inch or so is enough) and the gear goop will start coming out.

Let it drip for a while you try to get the stink of your hands and when it is mostly done dripping hold the cover on the axle and remove the last bolt. Then remove the cover by pulling it out slowly starting from the bottom. There shouldn't be much left in there.

Scrape the gasket off the axle housing until it is clean metal and do the same for the cover. Now is a great time to clean up and paint the cover and bolts.

While the paint is drying clean out as much debris and old gear lube as you can. Disposable gloves are highly recommended!

I like to use brake cleaner to spray out the axle housing so the insides can be inspected. I use break cleaner because it evaporates quickly and doesn't leave any residue.

There is a magnet in there that acts as a filter take that out and clean it thoroughly.

Now is when you count and divide the ring gear (big one) by the little one (pinion) to get you gear ratio. A magic marker or a paint pen that you ha.. Oh you get the idea, and mark every 10th tooth so you don't lose count can help.

Factory gears generally have the numbers stamped on the ring gear like 41/10, 41/11, or 41/12.
GM has a fetish for 41 tooth ring gears for some reason.

Put a new gasket on with gasket sealer if you want. I use Gasgacinch and I only glue it to the cover. Please no silicone. Silicone is used in place of a gasket or just in the corners when a gasket is used. It has it's place but it is very difficult to clean off compared to a gasket.

Get a funnel and some flexible copper or aluminum tubing about 6 feet long and hook it to a funnel. As long as it fits in the fill hole bigger is better.

Take off the right rear tire and put the tubing into the fill hole in the axle housing. You don't strictly NEED to remove the tire, but it can make filling the axle easier, and you wanted to inspect the brakes anyway right?

Tape the funnel to a step ladder or whatever is convenient. Make sure it is as high as the top of the bed or higher and pour the gear lube into that.

Gear lube pours S-L-O-W! Take your time so you don't spill any. Gear lube is rough to clean up.

Put a clean drip pan under the axle so when you over fill the axle (and you WILL over fill it) it won't make a terrible, stinky mess on the floor.

When you put the fill plug back in after filling it don't overtighten. It's not going to want to fall out. It's pipe thread and it will get snug very quickly.

I recommend PTFE liquid pipe thread sealer. I will not use Teflon tape on a car or truck because it tends to flake off and get into places it shouldn't be with disasterous results.

Getting gear lube (you will need a bit over 2 quarts) with the friction modifier for limited slip won't hurt anything if you don't have clutches (limited slip) in your rear end but it is important with a clutch type carrier.

When your friends come over ask them if they think the rear axle is o.k. to take the trip.

Honestly, the hardest thing is getting the plug out and filling the gear lube. But even they aren't bad at all.

The purpose of this is not to scare you and over complicate things, it's to make sure something unexpected doesn't blind-side you. This is supposed to be fun after all!

That being said, if you aren't comfortable with this project, have your racer friends do it for you.

Not everyone is good at everything. Personally, I won't shoot pearls or candies, and I'm painting my truck with rattle cans!

Ha Ha, well laid out, yes I get the picture. Sounds pretty stinky and gross. So i'll absolutely tackle it!!!! You didnt overwhelm me what so ever. Thank you so much for taking the time and breaking down in detail a step by step tutorial basically. I know i'll reread this a couple times. Thats interesting with the Teflon tape and a good idea. Do you recommend spraying/soaking in advance anything around the fill plug prior to going at removing it?

 

[Ryline]

I'm interested in how the hood hinges are set up. I want to do something like that with my 69 Firebird. The roll cage precludes using stock hinges.

I was curious if anyone was going to notice or question my hood setup. I dont recall the model but I came across a Buick car with that reverse hood out in a salvalge yard. I used that design, but had to change it in a few different ways. But others at shows with their hoods flipped forward always double look because I didn't buy any kind of kit. If it wasn't for that buick catching my eye that day, and having access to those parts. I probably would have just bought a hood tilt kit that is commonly seen. I need to recreate the way my hood prop mounts and holds the hood up as I didn't design that very well. With your car, and i've never installed or built a roll cage. But you could create more pivoting motion on the main hood bracket so that when the hood tilts down. It will fall into a guide like mine and as you push the hood towards the back of the truck. Those guides will allow you to get the back of your hood into some crazy places. I cant picture your roll cage/hinge area. But thats where I would start, unless theres a much more noticeably way to secure the back end of the hood properly. Either way it sounds like the type of challenges that I like to get into.

 

[kennythewelder]

That is awesome, I'm completely in the same mindset as your describing. Yes, i'm sick of the one wheel peel as well... The only difference is you seem like you show and race your truck is what I'm taking from talking with you. It'll always be a show truck for me, but I absolutely want to add as much performance as I can. But I feel more limited as I want to be able to drive it from the east coast to the west coast (as an example) through hot summers and freezing winters. I used to race both track and street an 87 Buick Regal T Type. So i'm looking at getting another one or a Grand National for racing. With my truck, the performance I want to add is purely for my enjoyment. I love the sound, stepping on the gas and really feeling it, and so on. I have never installed a set of gears so unfortunately I would have to look into having someone do that. I need to look up the process but im sure its not an easy job. Huge props to you and your gear & trans build. I would love to see your truck. Do you go to many car shows with other series trucks such as ours? Once I get this truck dialed back in I would like to find some groups with our series trucks and maybe do a yearly meetup/cruise somewhere throughout the states. That truetrac you installed, would it work good on my truck and the long cruising I do with it?

The truetrac is grate no mater what gear ratio your running. As for racing, well nothing serious. Just wont let that fool leave me behind at the green light. Im at about 325 HP. I have a ton of pics of my truck. You can look through them by clicking my avatar, then media. As for the car shows, sometimes there are a few gmt400s there. I go to cruse in shows, so all are welcome. Here are a few pics of my truck. I built the front section of the console and shifter, when I swapped in the bucket seats. The back section of the console comes out of a 2004 Tahoe.

 

[Ryline]

Welcome!

Just to clarify a little on the gear oil conversation, NONE of the factory carriers that came in these trucks should get any kind of friction modifier or additive in the oil. Using them with a G80 locker will cause improper operation. If it's a factory carrier, you want GL5 80W-90 with no friction modifier or additive. I use this stuff in both of my '97s (which have G80s). ACDelco 10-4051.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q10F3S

Nice trucks, thank you for the info, i'll check this ACDelco 10-4051 GL5 80W-90 out. Appreciate it.